Need help finding an Ithaca Model 37 Forestock

[smashclash 0]

A long time ago my father bought me an Ithaca 12 gauge, model 37 featherweight. I really like the gun (my only complaint is that it's 2 3/4" instead of 3" but whatever). He bought the gun for me used and unfortunately a previous owner damaged the inside of the forestock on the left side. So me being right handed can feel it everytime I pump the shotgun. It doesn't take away from the function of the shotgun but it's a cosmetic blemish and a nuisance to the touch. That said I'd like to find a replacement for it. My father located a very similar forestock for it but it's not a match. Looking online it looks like there is a large variety of options and finding one compatible with mine could be a challenge. Was hoping someone here might point me in the direction I could locate a new one.

 

Below are some pics of my forestock and the damaged forestock.

 

[Jon 264]

PM Old School, he's the resident Ithaca expert here.

[chris327 30]

Mine has that same foreend. Dont know where to get another though.

[Parker 213]

Gunpartscorp has some forend parts in stock. The original style or the old-style "corncob" or ringtailed forearm is less prone to cracking compared to the one you have where those "ears" cracked or splintered. (Stepping on it would crack them too!) I would remove that forend and AcraGlas the cracked area and build up to fit the forend's profile. Using the coloring in the AcraGlas you could probably get a close match to the walnut. That would be the cheapest route.

 

 

Try these -

 

Forend, 12 Ga., 7 3/4" OAL, 12 Rings

Product No. 1276960

$36.00

 

or

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Detail.aspx?pid=766070&catid=0

Forend, 12 Ga., 5-3/4'', Round, Plain Walnut

Product No. 766070

$30.75

 

(This looks like the shorter model)

 

I would call them first to ensure that forend will fit your forend tube.

[smashclash 0]

Gunpartscorp has some forend parts in stock. The original style or the old-style "corncob" or ringtailed forearm is less prone cracking compared to the one you have where those "ears" cracked or splintered. (Stepping on it would crack them too!) I would remove that forend and AcraGlas the cracked area and build up to fit the forend profile. Using the coloring in the AcraGlas you could probably get a close match to the walnut. That would be the cheapest route.

 

 

Try these -

 

Forend, 12 Ga., 7 3/4" OAL, 12 Rings

Product No. 1276960

$36.00

 

or

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Detail.aspx?pid=766070&catid=0

Forend, 12 Ga., 5-3/4'', Round, Plain Walnut

Product No. 766070

$30.75

 

(This looks like the shorter model)

 

I would call them first to ensure that forend will fit your forend tube.

 

Thanks parker. The ears are kind of the issue though. The forestock my father purchased to replace the one I have does not have the ears. Other than that it looks almost identical to the one that's on there. (Same checkering in the wood and all). The problem is, without those ears, when the pump is pulled back to the trigger the area where shells eject (underneath) would be partially blocked by the forend. So therein lies the problem. I think I'm stuck with the eared forestock.

[Parker 213]

Thanks parker. The ears are kind of the issue though. The forestock my father purchased to replace the one I have does not have the ears. Other than that it looks almost identical to the one that's on there. (Same checkering in the wood and all). The problem is, without those ears, when the pump is pulled back to the trigger the area where shells eject (underneath) would be partially blocked by the forend. So therein lies the problem. I think I'm stuck with the eared forestock.

Those ears or tabs are to extend the grip of the forend (sometimes called a beavertail by Ithaca) in order to give the user a better purchase, but the cutout on the bottom of the forend's rear is scalloped forward to clear ejection of the downward shells. You can always remove those "ears" and shorten the forend's profile. Your problem would be solved. No more chipped wood.

[Old School 611]

PM sent

[Underdog 1,593]

Ithacas are awesome! Checkout Brownells.

 

I would like to get an Ithaca 37 20 gauge with a 20" barrel.

[Old School 611]

You know Ithaca M37's have NO disconnector. You can hold the trigger back and pump and fire.

[djg0770 481]

You know Old School Ithaca M37's have NO disconnector. You can hold the trigger back and pump and fire.

 

Fixed that for you. Modern ones have the disconnector.

[Old School 611]

Fixed that for you. Modern ones have the disconnector.

 

I don't know Dan... Model 87 or 37???

[Parker 213]

Fixed that for you. Modern ones have the disconnector.

Ithaca made the change in the mid-70's. M37's in our family that date from the 40's to 1968 are without the disconnector feature. (My brother's '77 Deerslayer is without the nub on the hammer, and the trigger needs to be released after the slide locks the bolt in battery to fire the next chambered round.) However, I have heard that M37 police models still had the feature after the change.

 

Other pumps w/o a disconnector were Winchester M97's and M12's, and the Savage/Stevens M620.

[smashclash 0]

Just to bring some closure to this thread. I ended up taking the forearm off. I cut a piece of sheetmetal to make a mold for the broken stock and coated in in wax. I then secured it in place with tape. Then I used some JB Weld and put that in to fill the broken section and let it dry. Then I cut and sanded it down and it's good to go now! Thanks everyone.