Making a PU repro/fake sniper

[usnmars 136]

Mounting a PU sniper scope setup on a Mosin Nagant 91/30

 

Here is the process I use for mounting a PU scope setup on a Mosin that is NOT an ex-sniper. This process is for making a repro or a “fake” sniper. When I am finished with the process, I go as far as stamping the stock in the barrel channel “REPRODUCTION” and stamp the barrel under the wood line “REPRODUCTION.” I do not want any of the rifles that I assemble to be mistaken for originals. I do take extra steps to make them look authentic but also mark them as Repro’s. This is the process I use and is not the correct way. Think of this as a “Bubba gunsmithing 101” class or a shadetree way of doing it. The rifle being used is one that I am putting together for my father that started out as an unissued rifle and will be used in every step of the little write ups I am doing.

 

I am not responsible in any way if you screw up your gun. This is the way I do the conversion and am just sharing “my way.” If you are not comfortable in doing this, do not do it. There are plenty of real gunsmiths that are willing to do this process for a fee. I will not do this conversion for you, so don’t bother PM’ing me. Time is about 45 minutes start to finish to complete, and this is a rewarding weekend project that would be about a 7 on a scale from 1 to 10 in terms of difficulty. Do not start this project unless you have ample time to do it, nothing is worse than starting something and having to stop. Do not rush this job, remember to measure twice and cut/drill once.

 

 

Required tools…….

Drill press, sharp wood chisels, center punch, sharp drill bits, caliper, small clamps, and a silver or other colored sharpie marker, square, small level, tap, and a hacksaw blade.

 

 

First off disassemble the rifle completely, take everything off the rifle including the interrupter and the trigger assembly. Take the colored sharpie marker and draw a line on the outside of the receiver that is where the stripper clip guide is. The goal is to drill the rear pin hole centered in the stripper clip guide on the receiver. The line is just a guide to help you get things lined up. Now take your caliper and measure from the top of the receiver down that line and make a mark on the line that is 12.5mm from the top of the receiver. This is where you will end up drilling for the rear mounting pin hole.

 

 

Take your mount and some small hobby C-clamps and clamp the mount base on the receiver with the mark you just made dead center of the rear pin hole. Clamp the mount on tightly, I normally use 2 of the small clamps. Now with the base clamped on take a square and make sure the base is installed square on the receiver. The bottom of a Mosin receiver is machined square and flat so it is easy to make sure the mount is clamped on square. Now take the rifle and put it in a bench vise. Put the level on the bottom of the receiver and get the receiver sitting in the vise level. Now put the level on the mount and make sure it is level, this makes sure the mount is not only square to the receiver but also follows the centerline of the bore. Remember to really be a little anal here because once you drill your holes, there is no going back. Although the PU mounts have a bit of adjustment to compensate for a mount not straight, it is best to try to get it perfect when mounting the base. Once you think it is good and ready, take the interrupter setup and install it on the receiver. Make sure the interrupter spring is able to flex and move without hitting the mount, if it does reposition and figure out where it isn’t aligned. If the interrupter is free and doesn’t hit the mount, let’s get drilling!

 

Now that everything is nice and square and level bring the barreled receiver and set it in the vise on your drill press. Once clamped in position, take your level and put it on the receiver to make 100% sure the receiver is level in the vise. You want to make sure the holes are drilled straight. Once ready, line up for the rear mounting pin hole. Drill this hole first and install the pin. Now I normally pull the barreled receiver out of the vise and re-check the alignment with the level and square again. Measure twice and drill once. With only one pin hole drilled you can easily reposition the mount to get it straight. Once 2 holes are drilled, you have to just go with it and pray for the best. Once you are sure it is good, I drill the first main mounting screw hole in the rear of the receiver. Once this hole is drilled, I yet again remove the barreled receiver from the vise on the drill press and remove the clamps. I fully tap this hole and use the mounting screw for the needed clamp action on the other holes. So I install the mounting screw and rear pin and drill the hole for the forward mounting screw. Once that hole is drilled I remove the mount and tap that hole. I then reassemble everything and drill the final hole for the forward pin. In this process you are using your mount as a “jig” to make sure your holes are in the right spot. When it is all drilled and tapped you now have the main part of the install done, now you need to notch the main mount screws for the locking screws. With the main screws installed all the way, I place the barreled receiver back in the vise. I find a drill bit that is appropriate size of the head of the locking screws. I then position the drill press centered right above the hole for the locking screw. Now I just use the large drill bit and drill a little to get the main screws notched. Since you are only drilling the side of the screw the bit wants to walk a little. Use the slowest speed on your press and go really slow. After a few minutes, you will have a perfect notch in the main screw for the locking screw. Repeat this process for the other main screw and you are officially done, now all that is left is to notch the stock.

 

When it comes to notching the stock, I prefer to use a woodworking profile gauge. This helps make sure the cut is precise enough and looks somewhat professional. You can do it freehand but it just takes a little longer. I set the barreled receiver in the stock and mark what needs to be cut to make the barreled receiver set tightly in the stock. This is a slow and tedious process and I usually remove about 1/8” at a time and then remark and recut. Slow and steady, and remember measure twice cut once. Here is a little tip, make your cutout a LITTLE oversize. If your cutout on the stock is too precise you will crack your stock when the rifle possibly shifts from recoil when fired. If the rifle shifts in the stock during firing from recoil you WILL crack your stock, so a little gap around the mount is the way to go.

 

 

And the finished product!

 

 

**NOTE** on TULA snipers the pin holes were not drilled all the way through the receiver. The only holes drilled all the way through on Tula’s are the main mounting screws. On Izhevsk Mosins the holes are drilled all the way through. Just a little historical note depending on how “Correct” you are going to make your sniper. Typically the threads on an original mount are metric 6mm x.75 thread and on the postwar or reproduction mounts the threads are 6mm x 1. Get the proper tap for the mount you are using, don’t assume anything.

[Krdshrk 3,877]

So.... how much for a repro?

[lunker 274]

you beat me to it nick

[Tallday 10]

I did the same but cant for the life of me get the POS Sportsmens guide 130 PU scope to sight in... I would never buy another one again. I now need to find a good repro scope that will fit the mount and holes in the shit one I have..

[Iggyort 44]

_{AIM Surplus has the real one for $600}

 

 

 

_{http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=F3MOSIN9130PU}

[Tallday 10]

Thanks I will now have another part to save up for!

 

_{AIM Surplus has the real one for $600}

 

 

 

_{http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=F3MOSIN9130PU}

[Clintoon Eastwood 2]

Thanks I will now have another part to save up for!

 

Read the fine print *barrel condition is not guaranteed! So I wish you the best of luck.... Or try sarco's they had a few mosin snipers for $500 so go there and check it out. I don't have much more info than that or give them a call and ask.

[Tallday 10]

Read the fine print *barrel condition is not guaranteed! So I wish you the best of luck.... Or try sarco's they had a few mosin snipers for $500 so go there and check it out. I don't have much more info than that or give them a call and ask.

 

thanks

[intercooler 41]

i just got a really sweet one from AIM

[Clintoon Eastwood 2]

thanks

 

Btw, I saw those today (about 3-5 of them) in the store so give them a call Monday and make sure you bring a little snake light(or some kind of flashlight) to check the barrel.

[HODGIE 3]

I have 2 PU's the newest is from AIM and the barrel is what I would consider excellent.

It just needed to be cleaned, very stong lands and grooves, I reccomed doing the eletro bore cleaning.

They are more then worth the $600.00 for a complete origional. Way too many fakes or repros out there

with cheap Chinese scopes like the ones classic arms had for years until recently,