Looking to refinish a Marlin 1895M
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By OfcrFek
Well, on June 10th I started researching and planning how to refinish and restore an old Remington 870 to its previous glory. 10 days later, I'm finally finished! Now I'm by no means a professional, and this was the first time I've ever tried to do this kind of work on a firearm, but I think it turned out ok...
I used Birchwood Casey's Cold Bluing Kit to strip all the rust and old splochy bluing off the barrel, receiver, and mag tube. Reblued it all with the same kit, doing a lot of work with some steel wool in between coats, and using my girl's shower set to the hottest it would go to rinse all the compounds off after the allotted times.
This is pre and post re-blue of the barrel:
The stock was a little more difficult. I used some stripper agents to remove the old finish on the stock set. Then used a wet rag and iron to make the more serious dents pop back out. Then I took a sanding block to remove what finish was still there, and even the stock out over all (220 grain). Afterwards, I wiped the whole stock set down with some denatured alcohol a few times to clean it, and let it air dry. After I was sure it was dry and clean, I started applying the layers of stain (I used Gunstock 231 by Miniwax). Applied 3 layers of stain over about a 16 hour period, then let it completely dry for another 16 hours. After that, I applied a spray on Clear Semi-Gloss Polyurethane sealant (3 thin coats over about 6 hours), then gave it about 20 hours to completely dry. And bam, done.
This is the overall firearm:
Yes, that is duct tape holding the receiver together in the before pictures. Lol.
A special thanks goes out to Cowboy6373, Old School, usnmars, siderman, and Hare Trigger for all their instructions and advice on how to go about doing it!
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By CJR
I recently received a 1961 20 Gauge Browning Lightning Over/under shotgun......It's a beautiful shotgun but I want to get it re-blued and refinished.....I was wondering if anyone knows a place I could take my shotgun for theses services.....Thanks in advanced.
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We never let then inside. Last re-evaluation was 6-7 years ago, wife politely told him that he was welcome to look around the property and he could look in the windows. He saw two white resin chairs in the basement and told her that this constituted a finished basement. And everything in the basement is bare concrete/ cinder block, and mechanical systems. Nothing finished about it. Ultimately he relented and I'm sure that was a ploy to coerce us to allow him in -
I use an Alien Gear cloak tuck (IWB) with my Shield. Neoprene back - in the summer it does feel warm but doesn't rub or chafe. https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-iwb-holster.html Could also go with the shapeshift as it has multiple options - OWB/IWB, Appendix... https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-shapeshift-modular-holster-system.html -
By silverado427 · Posted
The 12-1 compression ratio L88 is long gone. This is GM's updated version. it might be pump gas 10-1 engine The L88 was a aluminum head cast iron block engine with a nasty solid lifter cam. the ZL1 was a all aluminum 12 or 13-1 compression ratio engine with the best forged internal parts at the time and had a even nastier solid lifter cam -
By maintenanceguy · Posted
I like my regular carry holster. OWB leather with belt slots. I've been carrying for over a year and it was comfortable and I hardly even noticed it. I carry (usually) a Ruger LCP .380 - light, convenient, tiny. But...today I ended up taking it off an leaving it home after a few hours. I cut down a big maple tree a few days ago and I spent 3/4 of today loading and unloading firewood into the back of my truck and a trailer. It was a warm day, I was dirty, tired, sweaty, and my holster was rubbing against my side. The leather and exposed metal snap was no longer comfortable. I'm thinking about adding a layer of something to that part of the holster to soften the contact. Anything insulating will make it worse. I don't want a sweaty, hotter holster against my skin. I'm imagining something thin, breathable, that won't absorb sweat, and softer than leather, metal snaps, and rivets. But I have no idea what would work. I'm hoping somebody else has already figured this out and I can just do what they did. Any suggestions appreciated. -
Check the primers on the ammo you didn't shoot yet. Are they fully seated? If the primer is not just below flush with the back of the case, the first hit can seat it better then the second hit ignites it.
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