Newbie question on manual data

[GunFuPanda 3]

So I've decided to reload, and I'm in the "learning stuff and gearing up for it" phase of things — I've read a couple books, watched some YouTube vids, and read through a few threads in this here forum, but I'm still a few material purchases away from actually being able to do it for real.

 

I just bought an RCBS kit that came with the Nosler Reloading Guide 8, which, while I'm confident I can use the data in the manual to make the cartridges I want, has some data that I don't really know what to do with. Now, I don't think Ballistic Coefficient and Sectional Density are super-relevant to me at this stage of the game, but the one that I just can't figure out is the BARREL Length/Make data.

 

For instance, under 9mm Luger it lists the Barrel Length/Make as 4" Douglas, and for .40 S&W it says 4" S&W. However, I'm under the impression not every 9mm handgun out there has a 4" barrel, and I'm reasonably sure they don't all have Douglas-made barrels.

 

So, since this particular manual doesn't seem to include a key or explanation for its charts (and a couple rudimentary Google searches didn't help at all), I'm bringing it here: How relevant is that information to me as a reloader, and even if it isn't particularly, just to satisfy my curiosity what the heck does it actually mean?

[10X 3,301]

The only time I've ever given a thought to barrel make is if it has polygonal rifling-Glocks, mostly-in which case lead bullets aren't recommended. Otherwise, I don't think you'll find it matters

 

Barrel length is mostly there as a reference. If your gun has a longer barrel than what they used, you have potential to get more velocity. If you have a shorter barrel, probably less velocity. But that will also depend on the powder selection-some are better suited for shorter or longer barrels

 

Personally, I don't worry about the safety of a published load if I'm shooting it out af a barrel a few inches shorter or longer than the reference barrel. As always, start low in the powder charge range given, and work up if there is a reason to. For target/plinking loads, there is no reason to go to a max charge weight, but you can tweak the loads for accuracy.

[T Bill 649]

They are telling you what they used to achieve the loading results they published.  Every gun will produce different results when firing hand loads.  This data can be important when determining load weights.  A "load ladder" will tell you what are the best loads for your gun.  A load ladder is a group of cartridges loaded at the same charge weight and then incremented in weight by a factor you determine.  You record the results at each charge weight and determine what is the best load.  Things to look for are speed, accuracy, primer deformation aka overpressure conditions, extractor marking, etc.  

 

No two guns, bullet, or powder producer will publish the same load data.  Each is so unique they are just telling you what they got with all the different components.  It's a good starting point to find your gun's "sweet spot".  You really do not want to create everyday "hammer" loads for your gun, just wears everything out much sooner.  You'll find your 'sweet spot'  several steps below max.  Always happens that way.  Some calibers are hard to deal with others shoot everything well.  Nature of the beast.

 

There are no stupid questions when learning reloading, ask away.  Above all be safe, and reloading will become an advantage to better shooting.

[GunFuPanda 3]

There are no stupid questions when learning reloading, ask away.

 

I agree with that, however.,,

 

They are telling you what they used to achieve the loading results they published.

 

Now that you've said it, it makes so much sense that I'm kinda having a "DUH!" moment.     Kinda like the doctor who keeps looking for "acetylsalicylic acid" when all he needs is an aspirin...

 

(Seriously, thanks for clearing that up!)

[JayWilling 33]

You can also check out load data on powder MFR websites. I use Titegroup a lot so I go on the Hodgdon website and get lots of load info there.

Handgun reloading is more forgiving than rifle loading. Between published start loads and max loads it's pretty hard to screw up, even ignoring all of the other parameters. The biggest problem you can have is double charging a cartridge, and damaging or blowing up your gun. Second biggest is missing a charge, where your primer goes off and leaves a bullet in your barrel. Third is under charging where your gun maybe doesn't cycle properly.