"Stevens" Savage .22 - .410

[mattio41 0]

Any Old time Gunsmiths in the house??

 

I inherited a Early Model Stevens Savage 22-410 with Tenanite Stocks. With the selector button on the side. It eventually became the Savage Model 24.

 

I took it to the range, and test fired it the other day. The 22 shot fine, I had 2 light pin strikes on the 410 with no discharge. While observing the gun, The 22 firing pin is under spring tension, where the 410 pin, seams to free float. Did some research, and seam to have a little confusion. Some schematics show, a spring for both the shotgun and 22, while others only show a spring for the 22. I have found different spring parts from different dealers.

 

Anybody out there have any experience with these oldies but goodies???

 

 

 

 

 

[Old School 611]

Great pics... Some significant cleaning under the hammer in the area of the firing pins may help. Also check the length of the shotgun pin by pushing it forward and seing how far it extends beyond the breach face.

[mattio41 0]

I had used a partial can of gun scrubber on it the other day, after I got home from the range. I ordered a new pin and springs for both. Just to have on hand for future issues. I am planning on removing the pins and scrubbing the holes out as well.

 

Now in this exploded drawing, it only shows 1 spring. as Number 25, and is only listed for the rifle.

 

 

 

But yet in the drawing below, it shows and mentions Firing Springs as in Plural and shows two on the drawing...

 

[Old School 611]

 

If you have the capability removing the firing pins and cleaning the holes is the way to go. Reinstall the firing pins and give it a shot. Over time crud could have built up ahead of the pin and is preventing it's forward travel.

[mattio41 0]

i found this on a Savage forum: http://www.savage24.com/ But I find that hard to believe that the original design would prevent so many discharges... I guess time will tell after I clean out the holes, and see what is going on in there. But it still doesn't end the debate of Should there be a spring or not. I ordered one, and figure i will try both ways..

 

 

 

Fixing light strikes by "Legionnaire"

 

Thought I'd post the solution I discovered for fixing light strikes on the shotgun barrel of my 24E-DL.

The Problem: I have a very nice Savage 24 E-DL .22 mag/20 gauge combo that I bought used. The .22 mag shot fine: reliable and very accurate. The 20 gauge, however, only fired sporadically. I'm guessing that the gun fired 30% of the time using Remington #8 Game Loads. But the gun would NEVER fire if pointed up at anything more than a 30 degree angle. The primers showed signs of light strikes. I completely disassembled the gun, cleaned the firing pin channel. I also ordered and installed a new firing pin from Numrich.

Things were better; ignition 60% of the time, but still unacceptable. So I ordered a new plunger, main spring, and a bunch of other internal parts from Numrich and played with the lot.

Solution:With the "new" parts from Numrich, the problem was worse! So once I had the gun apart again, I studied all the parts I had to see how they were different. Turns out that the critical factor is the angle of the mainspring plunger head. If it is bent down a bit, it exerts more forward pressure on the hammer, and less on the "standoff" that keeps the hammer from contacting the firing spring when the action is at rest. If the head of the plunger is canted upwards, the standoff distance is greater, and there is less forward pressure on the hammer. The pic below shows what I mean. Once I figured this out, it was a simple matter of bending the plunger head down, bending the plunger shaft slightly so it aligned properly in the frame (it's more of a gentle curve than the angle shown in the illustration), and putting everything back together. Back to the range and had 100% ignition, even with the cheap Remington loads (also tried two versions of Winchester). Hope this helps with others experiencing the same or similar problems.

BACK

[Parker 213]

If you have the capability removing the firing pins and cleaning the holes is the way to go. Reinstall the firing pins and give it a shot. Over time crud could have built up ahead of the pin and is preventing it's forward travel.

 

+1 I would do the same.

 

"Crud" has a way of impairing movement. And just for the halibut, try different .410 ammo (Federal, Winchester, Remington, etc.) Yes, it should work with any brand but you may find one works better than the other. Spring-loaded firing pins make sense, but it was also common to use floating firing pins. The closing of the action pushed the firing pin in so as not to protrude into the chamber. Many older guns (single shots and doubles) utilize floating firing pins.

 

When you have your 24 apart, have some slave pins handy for the cross pins to help you during re-assembly. You will find this makes your life a little easier. Good luck, the 24 is a unique firearm and growing in collector value.

[mattio41 0]

well, i guess a little trial and error needs to happen. Sadly, mine is not in great condition. A certain amount of rust has made its way onto the barrels. Took an hour to scrub the bores back to a nice clean condition. Planning on doing a home bluing job on the barrels, once it is n firing condition. And the stocks, apparently my grandfather used an acetone or something to remove some tape residue, so it stripped a fair amount of shine off of the teninite stocks. So, going to finish stripping them, and black them out with paint. Replacing stocks is just not worth it at this point.