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OfcrFek

"The $0.50 AR Trigger Job"

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Setting set screws under the trigger is not all that hot. I mean there are lowers you can buy with that feature built in. The entire premise is reducing sear engagement and frankly to my mind that is a bad idea.   I much rather have cleaner sear engagement than just an edge of it, because you apply this kinda fix to crummy mil-spec triggers which my not engage straight anyway, or the pin holes might not be perfect so now you end with basically the edge of a SIDE of the sear and hammer engaging.

 

Nowdays, when we can buy ALG triggers for $65 a lot of the old time "solutions" don't make any sense to me.

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The entire premise is reducing sear engagement and frankly to my mind that is a bad idea.   I much rather have cleaner sear engagement than just an edge of it, because you apply this kinda fix to crummy mil-spec triggers which my not engage straight anyway, or the pin holes might not be perfect so now you end with basically the edge of a SIDE of the sear and hammer engaging.

 

This is exactly what I was thinking, and why I don't think I would ever do it.

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I take umbrage to this guy's remark about soldiers of the the era and agree that reducing sear engagement is a bad idea. Maybe he should be flipping burgers instead of making believe he is so knowledgeable regarding ARs.

 

BTW I always qualified expert with any M16 I was issued without this shade tree gunsmith modification.

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http://www.junkyardgenius.com/firearms/ar-15/ar08.html

 

A friend emailed this to me. While I thought it was interesting, I dunno if I'd try it out of concern for safety. Thoughts?

 

This is one thread that I’d like to address with a measured tone and no BS. It’s important and safety related. I’ve forgotten more about AR  triggers than many know.

 

#1 The statement  about surface hardening of the trigger / hammer sear is true but there is a misunderstanding.  The hardening extends to the base of the horizontal grooves you find on the hammer sear engagement surface. The wash board can be removed and surface hardening maintained if  done carefully.  The engagement surface of the trigger need not be touched because the wash board is in the same direction as the trigger pull. Minor serrations  actually hold light grease / oil here well.

 

#2 The milspec  trigger has .060” plus sear engagement.  Way too much for me.  But if you’re standing behind me with a loaded rifle that’s fine by me.  This amount of engagement is four or five times more than a commercial rifle or what is necessary.  “Bill Spingfield” reduces  this engagement for  the Air Force Rifle Team I have read. BTW I don’t like his work.   015” sear engagement is fine, safe and  produces a useable trigger IMHO.

 

#3 An AR trigger (stock configuration) with the sear engagement on the same plane as the pivot pin will always increase in weight as the trigger is pulled because of the angle of the engagement. The trigger spring is actually being compressed more as you squeeze the trigger. This is all the premium triggers have the sear engagement location moved.

I’ve seen, inspected and modified many  AR  triggers.  And, here is my suggestion.

 

Buy and aftermarket trigger unless you REALY know what you’re doing and are willing to accept the responsibility of an AD.

 

On my precision AR I’ve developed a two pound set trigger from a stock hammer and sear.  Should you do it? Hell NO… Will I do it for anybody else? Hell NO… Will I ever sell this rifle with this trigger? Hell NO. This trigger is safe, stands up to a drop test but I’m not willing to accept any liability.

 

Good thread!

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