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Vlad G

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Vlad G last won the day on August 11

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About Vlad G

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  1. Most of the published manufacturers ammo velocities will based on 20" barrels, and sometimes as long as 24". Few publish velocities for shorter barrels. M193 is nominally 3,260 fps from a 20" barrel but you are using a 16" barrel you are going to see significantly lower velocities. Depending on individual barrel, powder, etc you may be as low as 3,000 fps which will make a significant difference as the range gets longer and will throw all the math into disarray, and a high sight over bore only makes those errors larger. If you really want to know your trajectory you must know how fast the bullets are leaving YOUR gun, not even one like it.
  2. I dunno if Ballistic is available on Android, I use it on an iphone. Strelok should be available on both, and both work equally well with Strelok having more reticle information. I think that getting used to these sort of apps is really important specially if you want to make calculations on the range. I often do my maths on the range with chrono out to measure the velocity and paper targets to verify the results. Once you have it figured out once, you dont have to worry about unless you change ammo.
  3. Use a ballistic calculator on your phone. Plug in your scope line over bore height, your bullet and bullet velocity, and start playing with different zero's in the app and look at the resulting trajectories. Keep in mind that different bullets at different velocities will behave very differently, so pick your bullet wisely. There are a few apps you can choose from, Strelok and Ballistic first come to mind. One you find a trajectory that matches your preference, look at its zero distance and use that or look at the offset at 100 and zero at 100 so you have the same offset. Then verify at different distances that the trajectory matches what was calculated.
  4. I suggest a simple experiment you may want to conduct. Obtain a broom stick or something equivalent, about 4-5 long to exaggerate the physics a bit.Shoulder it, place your two hands on it in various locations, while trying to turn on and off a light switch with the far end (or a similarly small item, like a screw or something). You will quickly notice that the further forward your support hand is touching the stick the easier it is to touch the target. The closer to the muzzle end that you can hold a rifle the better control you are going to have, assuming you are not overextending your support arm or locking your elbow.
  5. How much time are these guys spending behind those scopes vs how much time have you spend behind your RDS. In my experience, all training and skill being equal there is simply no comparison beyond 100-150 yards, and closer in the difference is not huge either with a quality scope. At close range the biggest issue with magnified optics is that people over aim, gun up head up keep your eyes open red on target press it. Too many people are trying to see perfect sight pictures for no good reason
  6. Oh the trigger is DEFINITELY different then the previous gens, just from the pictures.
  7. How was the trigger vs a gen4?
  8. In the internals make it look like the trigger bars and striker plungers (and slides) are really different then previous versions. I'm curious, but not curious enough to spend money. edited to add: now that I've seen more pictures of the internals, it is a drastically new gun inside. It is more different then any of the previous 4 gens put together. I can't decide if that is good or bad.
  9. Hmm that is interesting, I'd have to handle one and see if I like that layout. I did recently shoot a single pin Gen 2 G19 and the trigger is was decent, better then my 34 Gen4 when it come out of the box, but about the same as my Gen3 19. I too also don't get how the second pin would interfere with the trigger pull, because the location of the other pin is the same, so tge geometry of the trigger is also the same. Its not as if they changed the trigger bar and layout when they went to 2 pins, but I guess they could do that for the Gen5s. It may be a bad idea though, given the available aftermarket.
  10. I don't get spending time and effort on going back to one pin. That means redesiging either the locking block or how it the frame holds it and it is not like there is anything wrong with the 2 pin layout, and you still need the extra strength somehow if you don't want the gen 2 .40 issues. I'm probably the only person on the planet who likes the finger grooves. I don't like them on other guns, but they work for me on Glocks. I recently handled a Gen 2 19 and I was like how do you hold onto this thing? everything else, have it, why not.
  11. It depends. The more I shoot the more I realize that reset feel doesn't really matter. If I'm shooting at any speed my finger comes fully off the trigger, I don't ride the reset. That means that I do a full trigger press for every pull, which means the pre-travel happens every time. Lots of people would like that full travel length to be shorter and lighter so they try to take out the pretravel which is really a terrible idea from a safety perspective. Overtravel, sure leave only what you need, over travel should be left alone.
  12. Thats correct, don't mess with pretravel and be weary of the triggers that claim to reduce pretravel.
  13. HE, have you tried them on rifles ?
  14. Good job ! I don't use a case gauge for I pistol but I case gauge all rifle ammo