Malice4you
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Everything posted by Malice4you
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Last knife sharpener you will ever need
Malice4you replied to Oleg's topic in Knives, Blades & Other Edged Instruments
I have used the Spyderco Sharpmaker system for 10+ years at this point. With the diamond, coarse, fine, and ultrafine rods, I have been able to deal with most issues I encounter easily. Chips and severely dull knives take time, as would anything with finesse. I can get knives hair popping sharp and have even split hairs with knives I have sharpened. Takes me 2-4 hours to do 10-20 knives, depending on how dull they are and if serrated or not. (I have around 30 "user" knives and put dull ones aside and grab another, then sharpen everything in one batch.) Sharpening a single knife might take as long to set up and put away the system as it does to sharpen, depending how dull it is. Full kit with 4 pairs of rods and base should run around $120, while the basic kit with 2 pairs of rods is around $60. If you start with reasonably sharp knives, probably dont need the diamond rods. However, for a rolled edge or other annoyances, diamonds make the problem go away a lot faster. For work knives, you might not need the ultrafine rods, but I highly suggest them for kitchen knives. After the first couple knives, it is incredibly easy to get great results. Watch the DVD they include and you'll pick it up in no time. I'm a Spyderco fanboy, but I was never as consistent as I am now with stones or other sharpeners. -
Our theoretical poster wouldn't care about such trifling things...
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New Poster: Can I buy a gun in PA and bring it back to NJ? Forum replies: A long gun, as long as you get it from an FFL in a NJ legal configuration, etc etc OP: But what about a handgun? Forum: You can pay for it, but it has to ship to a NJ FFL. OP: But I really want it, why can't I buy it in PA? Forum: You can. Federal law says it has to go to FFL in your state to actually acquire it though. OP: But I like, really, really, REALLY want it and don't want to go through NJ Forum: Tough shit OP: So can I buy this handgun face to face in PA or not? Forum: ... [Collective ] OP: Also, can I just get two extra 20 round mags, cause they are cheaper than four 10 round mags? The guy I'm buying my handgun from face to face in PA offered the mags to me for $30 each. OP: How do I have to transport the gun and 20 round mags I just bought face-to-face in PA to NJ? Forum: .... OP: My new friend in PA has a semi auto shotgun he wants to sell, it's so awesome you guys! Holds like 10 rounds and has a folding stock and easily 10 pounds of extra accessories attached to it. What should I pay for it? OP: My new shotgun is so cool you guys! OP: You guys keep talking about FPID, what is that and how do I get one? Also, if I have been arrested 4 or 5 times, is that a problem? OP: You guys aren't very helpful OP: *RAGEQUITS* and goes to range, gun jams, throws it over wall to unjam it.
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I was late to the game for 1 & 2...made up for it by buying 4K blurays. Surprisingly large amount of practical effects in those, which makes me happy. Looking forward to this.
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Android - you couldn't pay me to use Apple. I've had one ipod, which was a gift, and holy shit is itunes software bad. Maybe they've fixed it since then, but I'll pretty much never update the music on the thing again just so I never have to use that crap software. (Will give credit where due, hardware wise the ipod works fine, though it is 5 buttons and 2 switches, so hard to screw that up) Gotta remember that Android is an operating system, and it is up to the vendor to implement it. I've seen good and bad implementations of the exact same 'version' of Android which can change the whole feel of how things work - not to mention the different hardware can be powerful - or not. A user of a crap implementation on crap hardware will have a very different feel than a flagship phone. I am looking at an S10/10+/Note 9/S9+ as my next phone, and have been spoiled by Samsung AMOLED screens for 8? years at this point... I dunno bout other devices, but I know I can change the default messaging app on mine if I were so inclined (I am not). I'm also the kind of person who actually goes through all the phone and app settings and locks it down and actually sets things up properly. I DO wish that I could root the damn phone from day one of ownership without that voiding the warranty. So much shit I'd remove that comes pre-loaded from AT&T that they do not allow you to remove.
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Quick, stupid question. Your SBI# doesn't happen to have any easily misidentified letters/numbers - think 0/O, 1/I, 8/B, etc - that are being entered wrong? I've had plenty of people misread things like part numbers or CD keys to me and when I go to check on it myself, I still don't notice that O is an 0. I've entered CD keys for software and I swear some companies gotta try to make their keys impossible to read, like MIV1NMI1OS0B08OSIVIWMNMW185B0 I'm sure the system is messed up - I mean, it is NJ and all - but just throwing it out there. Surprised they aren't taking money from you every time BEFORE they say nope, doesn't exist.
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I've got a 23, and have shot a friend's 17 and 19, all Gen 4 models. I really quite like the size of the 23, which is the same as the 19, but I do have larger hands. That said, I left mine in factory grip configuration, and like the size exactly as-is. I like that there is no pinky hangover, like there would be on a 26/27 -sized gun. I see no real reason to go to a 17, since all the 50, 33, 17, 15, and 10 round mags out there still fit in the 19, just without the extra grip length of the 17. And as someone else said, lotta other fun toys use glock 9mm mags. I'd suggest visiting a store to handle the 17 and 19 in gen 4 and gen 5 - if only to see if you prefer the grips of one or the other. I have no issue with the ridges on the grip, other people hate em. I have not really kept up with the newer generation changes, so I'm not too sure what the internal differences are, but I thought they were pretty significantly different. If you wanted to do the caliber conversion route, a 22/23 would be a good start, where you can have a .40, .357sig, 9mm, and should be able to do .22LR on one frame. One benefit of .40 was - during the panic - it was still somewhat available at reasonable prices. While 9mm, .22LR, .223, and .45 were all pretty scarce, I saw .40, .357sig, and 10mm on shelves most of the times I went. I almost started with the 20 Gen4 - that was what I was going to buy when I walked into the store. Had I gone that route, I'd certainly have added a 19 later on.
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I'm sure a use tax will eventually be instated, either with one of those little GPS OBDII dongle things, or mandatory mileage reporting on taxes, or other such bullshit. Or maybe EZPass readers on all the highways. Pretty sure our esteemed beaver-in-charge has proposed something like that already in the last year, because we are still taking home money for ourselves and he can't have THAT.
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Believe what he is saying is an AR with a 16" barrel - be it .223 or PCC - in a traditional AR configuration, will never be under 27" long, at least in NJ. My 16" upper with Phantom comp comes in at about 25" long, and the complete rifle at 34" (pinned at position 3 or 4). Considering an AR in .223 needs a buffer tube in most cases, you wont be shorter than about 32.5" long. Not sure that PCCs need the buffer for anything, but you are unlikely to find a 2" stock anywhere. The only way I can imagine being at 27" would not be legal in NJ, and that is using a piston based 16" upper with a folding stock, like an LR300; or as HE said, a bullpup configuration, like the AUG.
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Exactly. I'm sure there are plenty of other threads, I knew I'd posted in one "recently".
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For a budget build, I'd say it will be hard to get a better rifle cheaper. That price plus a lower is still easily $150+ less than what my cheap build was. I'm sure it will run and run fine. Main complaints I've heard on the cheapest PSAs were things occasionally not properly staked and the finish on the cheapest line was not particularly nice or various other minor quality issues. I don't know how widespread those complaints are, so I decided to skip the Freedom stuff. PCC is good to go in NJ as long as you again follow all the same laws/rules as for any other semi auto rifle. I know there are a few discussions on PCCs in various places here, I'd guess general firearms or rifle sections primarily.
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Pretty much any law you hear about in a gun store likely does not actually exist anywhere but the head of the guy telling you about it.
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That is from the Freedom line, so that's up to you - hiding in small text somewhere on the bottom. The reviews on the site seem quite positive, and price is right that's for sure. Since it's coming from a free state, the flash hider will [99% likely] be easily removed since that whole 'pinned and welded' bullshit only applies to stuff that would be an SBR without that extra length of a hider/comp/break
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No problem. PSA's Freedom line is their entry-level stuff, that would be the stuff you probably should avoid. I'm sure it will work fine, but I would prefer to spend what usually ends up being like 15-30% more than the Freedom stuff costs for the next step up. And usually for $100-150 more, you can step up to something in the "premium" line. Not everything comes with the bolt carrier group or charging handle, which you may or may not want as a kit. Typically, expect a decent BCG and basic charging handle to add $100+ Are you planning on running cheap bulk .223/5.56x45 ammo - 55-62 grain stuff? You'll likely see 3 options for barrel twist, 1:7, 1:8, or 1:9, and bullet weight you expect to use will have a [small] effect on what to pick. For cheap bulk ammo, I'd stick with 1:9 or 1:8, but if you expect to use heavier ammo, like 69+grain stuff, go 1:7 or 1:8. I'd say 1:8 is a good all-around twist for most ammo, though I have .223 rifles in all three twist rates. Are you going to be using an optic? If the upper has a built-in front sight post, that can be a real pain to deal with.
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While thinking about it, I believe PSA has 3(+?) 'tiers' of uppers. Basic el cheapos, mid tier, and 'premium' - I've got the mid tier, and it is the bare minimum that I would suggest buying from PSA - the super cheap line gets mediocre reviews. The premium line I believe uses FN barrels. I've had no issues with mine, and mine was (at the time) a super budget build with an Anderson lower, PSA LPK, PSA enhanced milspec tigger, and a NiB BCG. I ground the bayonet lug myself, cold blued it, bought a YHM Phantom comp, had a mechanic friend pin/weld it for me. Pinned the stock myself. One note on the 14.5" uppers out there...some come with a flash hider (no go in NJ) already permanently attached, so keep an eye out for that if you do go for a 14.5. PSA (when I last looked) only had like 1 or 2 models of 14.5 that didn't have a flash hider permanently attached. PSA has sales on things fairly often, though things go outta stock quickly if the price is right, so keep an eye out, and maybe set up email reminders if there is something you want. Keep in mind once the comp is permanently attached, you likely can't change certain components without destroying the comp, so be sure you don't want a free float handguard or something before it gets attached. Other thing to do when building the lower, if you do get a stripped lower and assemble it yourself (it's easy, just do it, saves money and you learn something) is to do the stuff with springs INSIDE a large clear plastic garbage bag, so if/when a spring/pin try to launch themselves around the word, they can't go far and get lost. Also, some layers of tape in certain areas doesn't hurt to prevent scrapes from tools. And be careful attaching the trigger guard pin - apparently easiest part to break on the lower. If I were starting again, I woulda gone PSA premium with a 14.5" barrel for my first AR and an 18" heavy barrel for my second. I always can in the future, but woulda been better starting point instead of buying twice. Again, nothing wrong with my mid-tier one, just woulda been nicer to have what I'd really wanted from day 1.
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Look at the list of banned features posted in current gun laws section sticky. Since it will likely have a pistol grip and detachable magazine, you will need a fixed or pinned stock (20 cent roll pin and a drill to do it yourself), no bayonet lug (dremel or grinder and some cold blue), a pinned/welded comp or brake if the barrel has threads. Overall barrel length needs to be 16+ inches. Keep in mind you lose maybe .5" to threading if looking at a 14.5" barrel and short comp. You may be able to time, pin and weld it yourself if you know what you are doing, otherwise any gunsmith should be able to do it for you. I will assume you don't have a grenade launcher, binary trigger, auto trigger pack, or bump stock. Most of the work you can do yourself. Pin the stock before you get the upper, and dont mate upper and lower until all your compliance work is done. Don't delay doing the compliance work if you have everything to make a full rifle. Police helos aren't gonna swoop in because you had an unopened UPS box with an upper at home for 5 hours, but you should do the compliance work ASAP.
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Can they use a different browser or device? I've had things that were broken because of various extensions, or the browser itself being uncooperative. Switching to a different browser which either handles things differently or doesn't have the same stuff installed is usually enough to fix it.
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Member for about 7 years as of writing this. Price of membership is good compared to many NJ ranges, as of writing, $50/year, plus one time $50 fee for new members. Guest pass cost is an extra $50/year. Guest pass users are supposed to only shoot from the same lane/port as the member, but it likely isn't an issue with anyone if the range isn't full and the guest is competent if the guest uses a 2nd port. Membership is yearly from date of signup. You must wait til you get your member card before you can shoot on the range - their site incorrectly states to print the receipt to use as a temporary ID after checkout - this practice is no longer allowed. There is a rimfire only range, two pistol ranges, an action range for pistols/shotguns, and a 100 yard rifle range. There is also a special events range which is never actually open except for special events - I've never seen it. On the average weekend, the rifle range tends to be the most crowded, the action range is fairly popular, and pistol ranges tend to always have a few people. The rimfire range is often unoccupied or only has one or two other people using it. During the week, you may well have the range you are using to yourself for at least some of the day. If you can go on non-holiday weekdays, you may have your very own private club for some of your stay. On weekends, there is no logic I can see to if it will be packed, busy, or empty. I've seen beautiful days with almost no one there, and I've seen bad weather days where ranges were busy; and 2 hours difference may also mean the difference between people waiting and being alone on the range. Parking for the pistol and rimfire ranges is plentiful, and you shouldn't have too big a problem unless lots of people are using every port. Parking for the action and rifle ranges, however, is pretty bad, as there is pretty limited parking, and some people cannot park with any consideration for anyone else, seriously limiting available space to park. The shooting ranges are all outdoors, however most shooting areas are covered, so you can shoot without getting wet if it starts to rain. Most areas have a stool, large bench, and plywood to hang targets. You cannot bring your own steel targets or own target stands. There has occasionally been club-provided steel, but best bet is to not expect any to be there. As long as you are safe and follow the club rules, you should not have too many issues from RSOs. Rules seem to be fairly in line with most ranges, with no serious annoyances coming to mind. Overall, I have no serious complaints about EFGA. I wish parking for the rifle range/action range were better, though that's a tall order (and mostly dependent on how other members park). I wish we could use our own steel if they are not going to provide club steel. Their email system is broken or something, because I do not ever receive any emails from them, except for renewal reminders, so I don't know of updates about EFGA unless I see a post on facebook (I follow them there), someone posts about it here, or I look at the club calendar and it is posted there. I wish the rumored 200+ yard range would either be confirmed and/or finished, but I've heard about that since I joined, and some things at EFGA seem to move at a glacial pace, so I'm not holding my breath. For $100-150 for your first year, the range is a good value for someone living relatively near the range. I expect to keep my membership as long as I live in this area, supplementing it with a farther away club with a 300yd range, and a NJ hunting license to use WMAs to shoot rimfires/shotguns. -
Interesting video. I've researched them years ago and pretty sure I had heard it was "baked" in - at least on some models, but seeing how they actually do it was different than I expected. If I were doing a new McMillan stock for my Savage, I like the MARBLE - 60% BLACK 30% DARK BLUE 10% LIGHT BLUE, though I have liked the blue, black, and grey camo pattern since first noticing it (or something close) in the movie Speed, 20+ years ago. One benefit of being a photographer is color calibrated monitors... Unfortunately, the pictures people take often leave a lot to be desired, so it does me absolutely no good in the end anyway. But at least on the rare occasion I actually sell something, it is accurately represented on my end... I've occasionally been pleasantly surprised buying something that looks better than the pictures, but not too often. Sometimes, the colors I was not super happy with at first become something I end up liking even more than what I'd hoped for.
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Well, that is certainly going to be one rather unique rifle. And I can imagine it will attract some attention, even before it puts 3 shots in the same hole. I do really like the pattern, though my color choices would be a bit different - I'd say more purple/blue/black or other combo of cooler colors...or maybe more of a red/purple. Think of the laminate wood stock blues, purples, greys... Of course, it isn't me you're making happy (well, watching these get built up DOES make me happy), so long as you like it, that's all that matters. I have stocks on two .22s that attract a fair amount of attention and certainly aren't for everyone, but I like em. Looking forward as always to see this progress.
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If It WereYou... A “WWYD” Question
Malice4you replied to Bully's topic in Firearm Hobby / Sport Discussion
Having watched the progress of your projects from the sidelines, I would be quite sad if you only ever ended up making a handful (armful?) of rifles. I've been impressed by the skills you have and hope that - if you do get an 07 - that I might be able to afford one, because I do appreciate the work and skill involved in building something incredibly precise. Considering that in the back of my mind, I'm constantly thinking about selling some of the guns I own to buy an Anschutz or Vudoo .22, and how I still want an Accuracy International, like I have wanted for a good 18+ years, I do appreciate a quality rifle...even if my nicest rifles at the moment are a bone stock Savage and a mildly worked on (by me) Savage. Someone mentioned doing general gunsmithing in addition to whatever you do decide to work on, and I would agree that it might be a good way to help get an income flow while building a name for yourself. If you choose to go rifle, things like bedding rifles or other accuracy enhancements might help get your name out. Other accessories might help the bottom line, since you have the right tools, maybe things like custom bolt knobs, comps, or other metal products. I've bought a specialty bolt knob off ebay, so if you had some made up, you could sell at your convenience. Or maybe offer truly custom products - I'd like a bolt knob similar to what I have now, but in steel and larger...so if you were willing to do customs, might be worth looking into. All that said...it is all about what will make YOU happiest. If building and fitting 1911s is what will make you happiest, then I'd say go that route. If making insanely precise rifles is what you're all about, go for it. Or listen to the people who say machining is machining and do both. I'm sure you'll find buyers and be successful in either direction, even if it starts with selling to someone here first. I do envy you, because I would love to have an 07, but lack the money, business sense, or any other skill one might need to actually make any use of an 07 may hold me back a tad... -
When you were younger, what guns did you like?
Malice4you replied to Malice4you's topic in Firearm Hobby / Sport Discussion
Counterstrike had plenty of effect on me as well. Real world AWM - used - you are probably looking at $3500-4000 minimum, and new I believe $5500+. Not including glass worthy of going on the gun, either... Cheapest way to get a lookalike besides the crickett (which I believe is like a 80% scaled one) is a Rem700 in an AICS chassis, though chassis alone is likely $1000-1500 depending on options. There was a company (rhineland arms? something like that) which made a wood AICS-look stocks for Savage Mark II and 93R actions (possibly 10/22 too?), which they of course discontinued around when I got my first Savage 93R. With some effort, it coulda been made to look the part. Five-seveN - I've come close to buying one a couple times...but cost and the inability to have 20 or 30 round mags for it has kept me from buying one, at least until I move to a free state. There are AUG clones - usually from companies which then go out of business so you can't buy and/or fix them. However, I believe there may be an actual Steyr now that is NOT marked AUG, which means you can pay out the ass but can have a legit Steyr not-AUG. At least with an MP5, you can get a .22 clone if you don't want to shell out for a 9mm clone... -
Until electrics can recharge 70+% in 15 minutes or less, and/or get 400+ miles per charge, and recharge stations are nearly as ubiquitous as gas stations are now, I don't see the adoption rate going really high outside of urban areas where people aren't traveling far to begin with. Hybrids will make the most sense for the future of electrics for at least 10-15 years, IMO, as you can still fill up a tank and keep going, while getting some of the benefits of electric. In 10-15 years, battery prices may have come down to more reasonable levels with newer/better technologies. As for a majority of cars being electric/hybrid...in 6 years I wonder if 10-15% of cars on the road will be electric. I still see 1980's Hondas driven around, and believe me, they are not show cars... Once there are a large number of inexpensive electrics out on the used market, then those numbers will rise fairly quickly as old ICE cars fall apart and break. As electrics/hybrids start really making up more than fractions of a percent (guessing) of the used car market, their use will finally start growing, especially if new replacement batteries can hit around $750-1500 instead of the $4000+ (?) of today. That said, I don't expect a majority for another 15-20 years at least. In the meantime, I want a modern version of the Opel Eco Speedster...lightweight car that handles well with a 1.3L turbo diesel with a 155mph top speed and capable of 112mpg. Add 15-20 years of engine design improvements and better composites and other technologies over the original, and it could be a very fun car without the need to go hybrid or electric. Unfortunately, it seems I'm a minority in wanting a car, not an SUV/truck...
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Got a speeding ticket near Clinton NJ on Friday. Big enough deal I'm looking for a lawyer to get whatever help I can. Anyone have suggestions of lawyers to talk to?
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I'm a Sig guy, so I went with a Sig 1911 TTT. Pretty sure that model is around $850-950, but sig makes plenty of other 1911 models. Some don't like them because of things like external extractors or - for some models - the Sig profile slide. I didn't care about the extractor, and I kinda prefer the slide profile... I've had no issues with my 1911 and would buy it (or the STX, the other model I was interested in) again if I were doing things over. Based on my experiences, I'd say Sig 1911s are worth a look.
