zeenon 0 Posted April 5, 2010 I usually clean my guns a day or two after the range, but this time I let it slide and went two trips without cleaning. In the past I used the Otis cleaning kit with Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner (spray) and that worked out but the carbon is pretty build up now and a PITA to get off. There has to be an easier solution that breaks this stuff down. The Hoppes Elite is like Windex, should I pick up a bottle of #9? Z Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Malsua 1,422 Posted April 5, 2010 I use breakfree CLP and it seems to make short work of the black stuff. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Old School 611 Posted April 5, 2010 What kind of firearm and where is the carbon build up? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zeenon 0 Posted April 5, 2010 S&W 686 6" 7 shot: Mostly in each chamber of the revolver, where the brass casing and bullet meet. S&W 15-22: The whole area around the ramp, the extractor, etc. Most of it cleans of with ease, but there are always problem areas with caked on carbon. I didn't get to the 15-22 yet, but once I wipe it down the ramp will be caked with carbon. Z Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pew Pew Plates 358 Posted April 5, 2010 Any designated powder solvent and a stiff nylon bristle brush makes short work of that stuff. for the 686 chamber, just use a borebrush and solvent and work it back and forth. if its REALLY bad, slowly spin a bore brush on a drill and pass it through the chambers (no, brass wont brushes on a drill WONT hurt your chamber). I use MPro7 when I cant use stinky stuff, and Hoppes #9 when I can use stinky stuff 8-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PeteF 1,044 Posted April 5, 2010 Where you shooting 38 special out of the 686? If so that crud is a PITA to get out. Someone suggested taking a spent 357 brass case and flaring the end with a press so it just fits in the cylinder and using it to scrape out the crud. Seems to work for me. I then follow it up with couple of passes with a lead removal cloth and that finishes the job. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NJ-Tom 4 Posted April 5, 2010 Hoppes, Tipton, ADCO, and Birchwood casey make a product called Lead Away Cloth it will remove the carbon circles inside the chambers as well as the circles that develop on the barrel end of the cylinder. Caution do not use on blued or case colored surfaces. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Celraysoda 7 Posted April 13, 2010 I just shot my Taurus M66 and received a nice bit of carbon as well. +1 to the nylon bristle brush. I have one with a thick end and a very thin end great for corners and sharp edges. After a few dozen q-tips and brushing with Hoppes 9 and a massage with a silicon cloth made short work. Shined like it was out of the box. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bbk 188 Posted April 13, 2010 I'm still looking for a good degreaser. I've tried Hoppes', Tetra, and now trying Break Free [Powder Blast]. They all work, but nothing that has made me jaw really drop. I still need to get my hands on some Slip to try out. For hard to reach places and massive carbon build up, for tools I use a bore brush, as well as an ice pick. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Celraysoda 7 Posted April 13, 2010 Also, the Meadowlands flea market is a good place for gun cleaning tools. I picked up a few stainless steel dental pick sets for a few bucks that are great for chipping out buildup in the little nooks and pushing patches into hard to reach angles. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites