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Questions about M&P Trigger Work

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I am getting ready to send my S&W M&P 9L off to Dan Burwell and get his standard trigger job. I want to make it my primary gun-games pistol (IDPA SSP and USPSA Production). I have shot another member's here who had Dan's Competition trigger job and it was scary light (~2lbs if I had to guess). The standard trigger has the pull at about 4lbs, which is fine for me. Dan also offers pre-travel reduction and over-travel reduction. I am not getting the pre-travel work because I generally prefer a bit of pre-travel in my guns that don't have a thumb safety. In a 1911, mentally I know that once the safety comes off, any pressure on the trigger means the gun fires. In my non-1911 pistols, I like that I can lightly stage the trigger and have some pull before it goes bang. I don't want a safety-less striker gun that behaves like a 1911. I am curious about the over-travel work. Is there a real advantage? I guess it allows you to get to the reset easier. Anything else?

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I thought about sending mine to him and sent an email to him. Never got a response. I think his TJ is only like $65 or something like that and Jonf's is sweet. I agree though, I wouldn't want it to be so light. I'd like to see how your's comes out. Keep us updated.

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Just get some APEX Tactical parts and you'll be good to go.

 

I considered it, but went with Burwell based on some members on other forums whose opinions I trust. The best part is, I can always swap to APEX for $100 if I don't like it.

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Chris, there are plenty of option here... you can get the standard job in lieu of the competition job if it would make you feel more comfortable. Its 1 lb heavier than the competition job and purportedly more crisp in the break as a result of it. My trigger actually measures at 2.75 Lbs with my lyman gauge which is a tad heavier than the normal job due to the "forward break" option i had him do. I agree that the pretravel is not worth worrying about but the overtravel, especially if you have him do a forward break, is essential otherwise the gun can pull shots low. These pistols have a lot of overtravel and when the sear breaks, the trigger comes crashing into the back of the trigger guard and influences guns' POA so its almost a necessary option unless you either condition the **** out of your trigger discipline or just aim high all the time. If you're not getting the forward break option, it may not be as essential. I have noticed that SIG's have the same level of overtravel in SA mode and whenever i shoot someone's, i always hit a few inches low because of it.

 

On paper, 2-3LB triggers seem low but you'll easily grow accustomed to it, especially given your experience.

 

What are you shooting now in production?

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Thanks Jon. I am unfamiliar with the forward break option. Does it mean that he has the trigger break further forward in the travel? I assume that my fingers are not as long as yours, so there is a good change I wouldn't need that option. From what I have read, the Burwell standard trigger job is not as far back as the Apex kit. Hopefully that is true.

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Yes, thats precicely what the forward break is. In most cases, trigger work to the M&P, be it custom or APEX parts, move the break far rearward and in the case of the apex kit, *all* the way rearward. While as a side effect it all but elimiates overtravel, many people don't like the position as it feels cramped to all but the smallest of grips (and remember you can always change your grip insert to small if thats an issue). The forward break is actually set to mimic the stock break position so its not abnormally further or anything like that so if you're OK with the ergo's stock, you'll like that option too. Some prople just dont like the rear set break and even apex knows this which is why they came out with the new FSS kit although that is not production legal at this time.

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I have the original burwell trigger job. Breaks at about 3.8lbs. What he normally does will eliminate a lot of over travel unless you get the forward set job. If you like to prep the trigger, and don't have really long fingers, I'd just get the standard trigger job.

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Never ran into one in person to have an opinion about it. Frankly, below a certain weight and smoothness, it's all about how well

It fits you personally. With the default job, it will stop basically when the back of the trigger hits the frame, with break being just slightly ahead of that.

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They are instituting a minimum trigger pull of 3 pounds for production guns in case you didn't know. So be careful if you lighten it too much.

http://www.uspsa.org/uspsa-online-mtg-details.php?meeting=30&type=meeting

3lb rule has been recinded.

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Greetings,

 

I have an M&P40 that I've done some work to. Let me preface by saying, I've never shot a Dave Burwell trigger jobbed M&P.

 

What I have done on mine is....

 

Installed and polshed the Apex sear

 

Gone to Dave Burwell's site and done his home trigger job. Basically, it calls for smoothing all contact surfaces. Also, it calls for rounding the firing pin safety plunger more deeply/more rounded. I don't have anything to test the weight of the trigger, but I'm guessing it's roughly 4.5-5lbs. It is extremely smooth. It still has the normal takeup and overtravel, but as has been mentioned, unless I was going for a thumb safety, this setup is ok for me.

 

If you do decide to do the work yourself, I HIGHLY suggest getting the sight pusher. The only way to get to the firing pin safety plunger, is by removing the rear sight. I have it, if you need to borrow it.

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Thanks for the offer Rauchman. I sent mine to Burwell yesterday. I am hoping to have it back by next week. The worst part of all this is the shipping charges. Hopefully we can meet up sometime and compare triggers.

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I initially polished my own stock sear the Burwell way like rauchman did, but i wasn't thrilled with it since it still a little heavy and had lots of overtravel. Thats why i sent it out too; it just doesn't even remotely compare to what a seasoned expert can do.

 

What options did you eventually go with?

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