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maxxishunter35

Over and under

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you gave somewhat contradictory requirements. field guns tend to be shorter and lighter so that they're not a burden carrying them all day. trap guns tend to be longer and heavier than field guns. the extra weight lessens felt recoil and the length allows smoother motion than short barreled guns. your best bet would probably be to buy 1 gun for each discipline. if that is not realistic, decide which you will do more of and go that way.

 

Stoeger and Stevens both make inexpensive o/u "starter" guns. I used quotes because some people love them and never move on to expensive o/u guns.

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looking to buy an o/u any advice or prefrances on make or models im planing to use it for clays and out in the feild

Decide on a budget first, then go to a club that offers loaners and try a shotgun or two. Then, after you decide what you like, go back home, you might or might not rethink your budget, then come up with some solutions and alternatives. There can be a marked difference between a true "clays" gun and a field gun, but there are a few good models out there that CAN do both. Don't buy any shotgun unless you've felt it in your hands, shouldered it, and decided that it is comfortable for you. Proceed to shooting one next and it will tell you whether what you think fits you properly hits for you properly. In other words, points like it's an extension of your hands and hits effortlessly. Remember, most standard shotguns vary only so much in dimensions, while people, their size and structure, vary considerably.

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i deff hear you guys , im thinking itll be mostly for trap shooting but deff want the option to take it out in the feild as well,i thank all of you for the advice i was looking at a beretta white onyx in a 12 gauge the other day i thought that was a pretty nice gun but like i said im really tossed up

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Shotgun "fit" is the most important thing to consider and comes before looks and other adjustable variables. A $10K gun that doesn't fit you will break less birds than a $300 pump that does fit well! So go to several places and rent loaners or borrow a buddy's shotgun to get a better understanding about how comfortable shotgun shooting is supposed to be. When you shoulder the gun does your head meet the stock and your sight beads line-up without effort, or do you have to adjust the way you hold the gun or tilt your head each time?

 

Try guns from several manufacturers in a "blind" sighting test. Have the store clerk hand you the gun and you just immediately shoulder it without taking the time to look at the shiny metal or the nameplate. You might find that a gun that doesn't fit well was your favorite looks-wise. Find one in a style that fits, check the sizing as far as LOP, weight, barrel length, etc. and then see if the clerk can show you a gun with the same stats in the brand / budget of your choice. Also keep in mind that there exists professional stock benders that customize the fit of your gun to your body (around $200 or so locally) and info about them can be found at most good trap ranges' bulletin boards.

 

Clay target trap guns usually require you to hold the sight bead UNDER your clay as you swing ahead leading it and field guns are usually aimed directly in line with the bird as you lead it. Some guys I know can pick up either and bang away dusting the birds, others miss everything since they forget where to aim / what gun they have in their hands.

 

Good luck with your exploration of over / unders!

 

Dave

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Lehigh Valley Sporting Clays rents Berettas. I have seen semi autos and O/U's for rent, but call them first. I believe the members get first choice, but I also believe you can reserve one ahead of time.

 

Like Dave said above, a good that fits you well is far better than a gun that looks nice no matter what the price difference.

 

Also keep in mind that an O/U and Pump will beat you up more than a Semi Auto given the same loads. That is why there are so many recoil systems out there to chose from.

 

I was told by a really good Trap shooter one day to take your unloaded gun, shoulder it and look down the barrel, in a mirror! Keep doing it until you have the gun aimed in the same exact spot each and every time. This guy looks like a robot at the line, each and every movement is the same each time he shoots. Yes, he breaks 23 - 25 everytime he goes to the line. I am satisifed with 20+ everytime I go to the line!

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you gave somewhat contradictory requirements. field guns tend to be shorter and lighter so that they're not a burden carrying them all day. trap guns tend to be longer and heavier than field guns. the extra weight lessens felt recoil and the length allows smoother motion than short barreled guns. your best bet would probably be to buy 1 gun for each discipline.

 

I say go heavy for trap, and build up muscle and endurance to use it out in the field :wild:

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a heavy o/u that fits you wont kick the hell out of you but after 12 hours of upland hunting you will hate it.for hunting I like a light weight gun and never notice recoil even though its more than a target gun like parker said try several

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Now here's my next question is there any that I should stay away from I dont want to buy something I'm going to have issues with

 

I have read often that Stoeger firing pins have a short lifespan. I have no personal experience with them though. Most of the O/U guns you see under $1200 (an approximate estimate on my part) are field guns. Trap guns are built to withstand thousands and thousands of rounds. A $300 O/U will not stand up to abuse like that. Of course most of us will never run that many rounds through our guns, so it wouldn't matter. But like a lot of hobbies, people want to take pride of ownership in their toys, and that means spending some more for a product of reputable quality. I only go bird hunting a few times a year, but I bought an expensive Browning side-by-side 20 gauge. I really like that shotgun. It handles great and it will outlast me as long as I keep rust and politicians away from it. I only shoot trap seven or eight times a year. One day I will have myself a nice Browning Cynergy (yes, I like those ugly duckling guns) trap gun. In the meantime though, my Remington 1100 Trap semi-auto serves me well. Start small with something fairly inexpensive to make sure you really are as into trap as you think you will be. You can always sell it to someone else who is dipping their toes in the same water for the first time. You might find out that you enjoy skeet or sporting clays a lot more than trap (of course they are different guns than for trap), and it would stink to have to lose money selling a $2k shotgun.

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Citori's have a good reputation for durability. They are simply Japanese-copies of Browning's legendary Superposed. With proper care, they won't start to show wear or exhibit problems until the 40,000-50,000 round mark. Many have been known to go twice that distance. I've seen Miroku's (Citori's) that have seen 100,000 rounds and I shot a Superposed for a summer with a bit more than 100,000 rounds on it. That Superposed, while it practically flopped open, still exhibited a top lever that was right of center. Beretta's are equally as durable, and their trunnions which act like hinge pins only mounted in the sidewalls, are replaceable for wear. (The higher end Beretta target guns also have replaceable shoulders.) Both O/U's are serviceable to the average person and parts like extractors can be easily removed for a good cleaning.

 

The key to keeping an over & under (or any double) working for years is to clean them religiously so the dirt doesn't promote wear. Good O/U's are fitted with very close tolerances. Dirt and grit in wear areas act like a fine abrasive and over time will wear the metal surfaces.

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