Decided to reload

[Mr.G 8]

I've decided to reload for cost factors. Also, so my ammo order does not sit in front of my porch entire day while I'm at work. Planning to get Lee Pro 1000 progressive press and start with 45 then 9mm and .223.

 

If you have any reloading supplies and/or PRO 1000 you would like to dispose off PM me. I'm starting from zero so I need everything. Cabelas and Midwayusa has the Pro 1000 for $174 complete but If you have one that is in good condition I'll consider that more.

 

I posted in marketplace too http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php?/topic/37091-wtb-lee-pro-1000-and-other-reloading-supplies/page__view__findpost__p__494746

[Bully 749]

I have a bunch of once fired 9mm brass for sale if you want it. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.

 

C

[njJoniGuy 2,133]

to the OP:

 

The Lee press is only $174 for a reason

Remember, in this world, you generally only get what you pay for.

 

And loading .223, there are a number of steps that need to be done to prep the brass prior to loading that are better accomplished in a single stage press setup rather than a progressive.

 

jmho for what it's worth

[NJReloader 0]

Send me a PM when you're ready to buy bullets.

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

[hd2000fxdl 422]

:good:

Send me a PM when you're ready to buy bullets.

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

[Mr.G 8]

Send me a PM when you're ready to buy bullets.

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

 

Bookmarked and saved..

[NJKen 23]

to the OP:

 

The Lee press is only $174 for a reason

Remember, in this world, you generally only get what you pay for.

 

And loading .223, there are a number of steps that need to be done to prep the brass prior to loading that are better accomplished in a single stage press setup rather than a progressive.

 

jmho for what it's worth

I could not agree more.

I do all my rifle reloading (thats all I reload) on a single stage RCBS Rock Chucker. The leverage action of the RCBS makes full length resizing a lot easier. Rifle brass is usally done with a 2 die set and needs measuring and/or trimming between steps. Pistol shooters seem to prefer progressive presses for speed since the trimming step is eliminated.

Also, most 223 brass has crimped in primers and will need to be sweged or reamed.

Im not trying to discourage you, just read all you can about the different processes before you make a final decision. Good luck and welcome to reloading

Ken

[Urban Grunt 44]

It's better to learn the step by step of each process before you move to a progressive press.

[hd2000fxdl 422]

It's better to learn the step by step of each process before you move to a progressive press.

 

Lot of experienced re-loaders will say to start out on a single stage press, but me being in just under a year of rolling my own, I would say if you are doing pistol, a progressive isn't that hard to start with. A few things to keep in mind though, take your time, double check everything, then do that again, and I would also advise if you went the progressive route, find someone in your area to help/mentor you as you learn. Actually I was flipping the coin on a Hornady L-n-L and the Dillon 650 and the only reason I chose the Dillon was I have friends that have that press, I got plenty of tips, tweaks, and tricks that made learning and running he press easy.

 

Now if you are talking Rifle, I would go with a single stage based on the recommendations of the folks on the forum.

[Mr.G 8]

Just to clarify - I plan to use the press in single-stage mode until I am able to load comfortably and safely. The auto-index can be disabled easily. Even then I'll read books before I start messing with it. Reason I am going straight to progressive is because so I don't have to replace the press in half a year or so. Speed is a factor too - if I spend over 4 hours a week reloading I might as well buy ammo - I don't have a lot of time to spare.

 

So, pistol rounds do not need to be trimmed and chamfered? From cleaning tumbler straight to press?? I know, I have a lot of reading and catching up to do.. I'll play with the press for weeks before starting a single-stage run.

 

Btw, thanks for the tips/advise. It really helps.

[Bully 749]

You may want to check the brass after a few firings to see that they are still in spec, but for the most part, trimming cases is a rifle thing. That's my understanding at least, but I'm sure the experts will chime in shortly.

 

What are you looking to load initially? Whatever it is, get some brass and clean it and decap/resize all of it. It'll give you a good feel for your press and what it can/can't do. When you come to grab that scale, you can take a look and a few pulls on my press to see differences. Not a problem. Also, if you don't want to spend on a tumbler right away, just soak the brass in Dawn and some vinegar, agitate, and rinse. Gets them clean enough to get started. A lot of folks that reload pistol don't even do that but if you clean it before you decap, it'll save wear and tear on your dies.

 

Get a loading manual or two and "The ABC's of Reloading" which is packed with information.

 

Good luck with it. It's quite addictive.

 

C

[Mr.G 8]

Excellent tip on the cleaner! Thanks! I'll do that for now so my initial investment is not that high up front.

I'm planning to reload .45 and 9mm. .223 later on but that's when I really get comfortable.

[njJoniGuy 2,133]

.45acp is easy as pie - low pressure, straight wall, load it till you lose it. Check out the Lee Factory Crimp die and Bulge Buster. They do a helluva job!

9x19 is trickier - high pressure, tapered brass, proper crimp is critical as bullet setback can result in overpressure and a very bad day.

.223Rem is just a lot more steps (lube, delube, trim-chamfer-deburr, swage if crimped, clean primer pocket) and even higher pressure. Brass failures are much more common (split necks, incipient head separation are the most common)

 

+87 on the ABCs of Reloading

[Mr.G 8]

Great, thanks again. I'll order ABC and Lee (since I own the equipment) books to get started.

[Mr.G 8]

Damn, Cabela's does not ship primers to NJ. I'll check Natchez and Brownells. Where do get your consumables?

I found brass aat http://www.oncefiredbrass.com/ and https://fsreloading.com/

[Rob0115 1,107]

Powdervalley and the bullet hole has some stuff. Primers and powder for sure. They aren't cheap but if you aren't ordering in quantity the hazmat charge will make mail order more expensive.

[Candide 0]

 

 

Lot of experienced re-loaders will say to start out on a single stage press, but me being in just under a year of rolling my own, I would say if you are doing pistol, a progressive isn't that hard to start with. A few things to keep in mind though, take your time, double check everything, then do that again, and I would also advise if you went the progressive route, find someone in your area to help/mentor you as you learn. Actually I was flipping the coin on a Hornady L-n-L and the Dillon 650 and the only reason I chose the Dillon was I have friends that have that press, I got plenty of tips, tweaks, and tricks that made learning and running he press easy.

 

Now if you are talking Rifle, I would go with a single stage based on the recommendations of the folks on the forum.

 

+1 to this. A progressive isn't that hard to learn at all. I think it's better to learn on actually because you aren't pulling an unfinished round from a tray multiple times. Every time you pull an unfinished round from a tray to do the next step you risk skipping one. If you really want to go slow and learn on a progressive just cycle one round thru the process at a time.

[raz-0 1,259]

You can learn pistol on progressive. If you want ot be cautious you run one at a time and you can avoid getting overwhelmed. Rifle is harder to make the justification for a progressive setup.

 

Assuming cleaned brass for both.

 

Pistol goes like this: deprime->size->prime->bell->charge->seat->crimp-> done. some of those steps might be combined or separate depending on your gear and how you set up, but they can ALL be done on the press. The only gotcha is crimped brass, which for pistol, you can easily pluck out and toss in the scrap bin and proceed with a blank slot until it makes it all the way around.

 

Rifle goes like this deprime->size->swage or ream primer pocket if needed->trim to length if needed->if trimmed, chamfer neck if needed->charge->seat->crimp->case gauge->done.

 

Now for cheap blasting ammo, you can skip the chamfer. If you go with an x-die setup, you can avoid trimming very often if you exercise good inventory control of your spent brass, but you still do need to sometimes. If the brass has crimped primers, you have to remove it. The only press you can trim and take care of the primer pocket without removing the brass form the press is the dillon 1050 with the trimmer add on. And you need to hook a vacuum up to it.

 

I'd lik that kind of a setup, but I just batch load on a turret.

[Bagarocks 36]

If ya buy the Lee, All my stuff is Lee by the way

 

Buy "Modern Loading" 2nd Edition by Richard Lee, easy read with excellent info on Lee equipment. Has 28,000 Load recipes included. Lee Precisions been in business manufacturing reloading equipment since the late 50's, Still run by the Lee Family so they must be doin sumpthin right.

 

If ya want a Rolls Royce go with the Dilion, Caddilac go with RCBS or Hornady, Lincoln Try a Forster.

If ya want an inexpensive product that drives like a Chevy Nova try a Lee Press.

 

Thiers tens of thousands of people out there that love them!

[Rob0115 1,107]

I have a Lee loadmaster that I bought used off the forum. It's really nice but I have an RCBS Rock Chucker IV and I just prefer single stage.

 

I'll probably sell the Lee at some point.

[hd2000fxdl 422]

If ya want a Rolls Royce go with the Dilion, Caddilac go with RCBS or Hornady, Lincoln Try a Forster.

If ya want an inexpensive product that drives like a Chevy Nova try a Lee Press.

 

 

Not sure what models of Dillon and Hornady you are comparing, but I'd put the Dillon 650 and Hornady Lock-n-Load even on the scale.