Rust Prevention for Cap and Ball Cylinders ?????

[Cemeterys Gun Blob 165]

Yeah yeah yeah, the rust prevention nonsense has been beaten to death in other threads......

 

.....but seriously, what is safe to use in cylinders of cap and ball guns? I once used a very very lite coat of Ballistol, till an old man told me to never ever put anything into the chambers of cap and ball guns.

 

So what is there to use, if anything?

[Smokin .50 1,907]

After thoroughly drying each chamber in the cylinder, with a new cleaning patch wet with more than a dozen drops of Kleenbore's Formula #1, I go into the cylinder (with the nipples removed) from BOTH sides. Then an extra drop on each nipple's threads prior to replacing them.

 

If too much oil in the chambers bothers you, merely take a cleaning patch with alcohol to remove said oil prior to your first ignition. This alcohol technique is also used on our front-stuffers, both rifles and pistols. Capping-off at the firing line further insures superior ignitions with lower sdv's.

 

Some folks use synthetic oils, some not, but EVERYBODY who actually shoots black powder (or the subs) finds out the hard way that they need to use some kind of oil to prevent rust.

 

Don't believe that Old Man you spoke to, as his guns probably rusted into inoperability by now........

 

 

It appears from all of the excitement on muzzleloaders that you and I are the only forum members that shoot black powder and are willing to post about it. Heck, I'm even still waiting for an answer from YOU on the last thread you started about the GSBPA! I'll be running a Pistol Shoot in August up on the Farm. Want to come and have some fun with us?

 

Dave

[Pew Pew Plates 358]

Petro oils tar up, so I use olive oil wiped on then off everything. I then use choke tube anti-seize on the nipple threads.

[Smokin .50 1,907]

Petro oils tar up, so I use olive oil wiped on then off everything. I then use choke tube anti-seize on the nipple threads.

 

Hi Glenn!

 

What you suggest also works great! I've never had an issue with "taring" since only a lite coat of oil (of any type) is really needed. I think that the Old Man's tale started more than a century ago when folks used what ever was just laying-around, like Straight 50 weight from Farm Machinery (really thick), and used too much and then stored the gun muzzle-up so all of that heavy oil would pool into the flash channel on their rifles, thus causing severe ignition problems AND taring if the thing ever did actually ignite......

 

Some folks in extremely humid climates store their guns oiled-up and then clean them with alcohol right before use.

 

The choke tube anti-sieze is a good tip, especially for those that are too lazy to remove the nipples during EVERY cleaning.

 

Nice to hear from you again!

 

Dave

[hd2000fxdl 422]

like Straight 50 weight from Farm Machinery (really thick),

 

Dave I still use Straight 50 weight in my 83 Shovel in my Avatar, and if I was back down in AZ or Southern Kali, I'd use 60 maybe even 70 in the hot summer months..

[Smokin .50 1,907]

Hi Harry!

 

If I'm in need of a little straight 50, I'll know who to ask, lol!

 

60 or 70 is getting pretty thick, as 90 is grear oil, lol!

 

Stay COOOOOLL bud!

 

Dave

[Jersey Joe 4]

I can't get the nipples off my cylinder for the life of me. I've soaked it for days in penetrating oil and went through three nipple wrenches. I also tried heating with torch but no luck. I'm not too concerned as it still fires so i figure I'll just replace the whole cylinder at done point. I used that spray on canola oil last time and so far no rust. I have not shot since the time we went to SCFGPA many moons ago.

 

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

[Pew Pew Plates 358]

Use an EZ-out or a left handed drill bit, it will wreck the nipples but you can just replace the nipples and not the entire cylinder & nipples.

[hd2000fxdl 422]

Hi Harry!

 

If I'm in need of a little straight 50, I'll know who to ask, lol!

 

60 or 70 is getting pretty thick, as 90 is grear oil, lol!

 

Stay COOOOOLL bud!

 

Dave

 

Yea but don't forget Motor oil and Gear oil are not rated the same, so when you see gear oil with those high numbers there equivalent in motor oil is a lot lower..

 

As far as straight 50 weight, I always have it on hand. I usually keep enough oil at home for all my rides, bikes and cars to last me a few year of oil changes. Can't help but buy when it's on sale. lol

[hd2000fxdl 422]

Use an EZ-out or a left handed drill bit, it will wreck the nipples but you can just replace the nipples and not the entire cylinder & nipples.

 

Nice Glenn, always recommend using a reverse twist drill when people have a stuck bolt or something that may need an EZ-Out, I have found that a lot of times you back it out just drilling it. Now break a EZ-Out and ya damn near need an EDM to get them suckers out. lol

[Smokin .50 1,907]

Joe,

 

I wish you a lotta luck with that shootin' iron! Hope that you can fix it so it works good soon!

 

And I hope to shoot with you again too!

 

Dave