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pbkid6974

T/C renegade .54 cal

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if i dont get off, im definitely going to head up there on saturday. im sure the guys there will be able to answer my questions about what i need. but i will definitely contact you about teaching me how to shoot the thing after my trip to dixons.

 

O-K, sounds good.  In case we don't see each other on Thursday, here's a small list of the essentials:

 

 

.530 Round Balls

.018 Pillow-Ticking Lubed Ox-Yoke Patches (or other thickness as recommended by the Dixon's), size .50-.59 caliber part #5187

Goex 2Fg real Black Powder (or finer granulation 3Fg if that's what Rob uses!)

Brass Powder Measure with built-in funnel spout, for 5-120 grains of powder.

Goex Can Pouring Spout from RMC.  (I'll give you a metal Goex Can to use with it!).  Screws into Goex Can and lets you pour powder SAFELY into the Measure or your Flask.

Short Starter .54 caliber

10/32 Range Rod (T-Handle preferred for ball-pulling).  Get one long enough for the Plains Rifle, so you only have to ever buy ONCE!

Nipple Pick, Patch Worm, Ball Puller, Jag, Breech Scraper and Wire Brush Combo Pack from RMC Corp. in 10/32 thread to match your Range Rod!

Nipple Wrench for #11 RIFLE Nipples!  Heavy-Duty, so makes it easier to do and lasts a long time.  Look for MSM brand.

CCI #11 Magnum Percussion Caps (other brands O-K, these just work EVERY-TIME for me!).

Gun Oil--the regular type in a bottle--that you can get just a single drop or so at a time to come out.  For use with Nipple threads and breech end.

 

 

Other HANDY things to have.  NOT absolutely essential, but makes your life easier:

 

Butch's Black Powder Bore Shine in a bottle.  Makes cleaning a whole lot easier!  Emulsifies Black Powder residue on contact; neutralizes salts that are corrosive.

Cleaning Patches--the big, dry round ones he sells there!

Any old tooth brush (for parts cleaning).

Brass TDC brand Universal Capper (sometimes called the "Teardrop").  Holds 100 #11 caps.  Buy ONCE, cry ONCE!  Do NOT buy the straight-line cappers--they DO NOT WORK!

A piece of cowhide for capper's neck strap.

Pedersoli brand Powder Flask.  Pour powder from Powder Can to Flask, then Flask to Measure, then Measure to Muzzle!  (NEVER directly from Flask to Muzzle!).

Plastic Powder Funnel.  Comes in handy when pouring powder from can to Flask or cleaning spilled powder grains.

Gun Oil-ADVANCED!  I use Birchwood-Casy's Barricade in the spray can.  For application inside and out for the entire barrel.  Store Rifle UPSIDE DOWN on paper towels after cleaning!

 

 

This cheap rifle will cost you some coin to get the right stuff from the get-go, but will very much be worth it!  You'll avoid all of the frustration most Noobs go through figuring-out all of this stuff on their own! You'll enjoy yourself more and use each tool I've outlined so as to maximize the amount of shots you can take, and most importantly, do it all in a SAFE and FUN manner!

 

I hope that we get to see each other on Thursday.  I already have a Goex Can put on the side for you!

 

Dave

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just remember...powder goes in before the bullet. ! :hunter:

 

YES IT DOES!  LOL!

 

There's just two kinds of Muzzleloaders in this World:  Those that HAVE already Dry-Balled (ball first, no powder in bore), and those that WILL some day, lol! :fan:

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Rob is correct.  And the cO2 discharger is the simplest one to use, but since you have a shopping li$t already, I'd learn how to pull a ball since you won't have to spend any more money.  

 

The ffff Rob wrote about is when you unscrew the nipple with a nipple wrench and trickle-in some ultra-fine grained pan powder (for flintlock pans) into the flash channel BEHIND the seated ball.  It only takes a few grains and then you screw the nipple back in very carefully.  Cap, point in SAFE DIRECTION and fire the cap.  Cap sets-off the small qty of ffff powder and the bore is clear of the "dry ball".  Any of the three ways Rob mentioned will work!  When we get to show you "the ropes" we'll demonstrate what to do each way.  Then you'll KNOW what to do and how to do it SAFELY!

 

And you're welcome for the list.

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This thread inspired me to take my muzzleloader out on Sunday afternoon.

 

Unfortunately, I started-off with a misfire for the first round - in my hurry, I neglected to wipe the bore, and it took several caps to burn-thru whatever oil had accumulated and fire the first loading.  After that, it was "click-bang!" for the rest of the afternoon.

 

I was a bit concerned with the first few rounds - I wasn't seeing any holes in the target.  For the 4th or 5th round, I intentionally shot high, and all of a sudden...a hole appeared on the paper.  Seems the gun was keeping all the shots in the black, and I couldn't see 'em!

 

Overall, I was very happy...  :)

 

 

Thompson Center .54 cal New Englander, 50 grains Pyrodex RS shooting T/C Maxi Balls

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Well smokin I got my half day on Wednesday. Now we just need to arrange when and where to meet. Let me know what's best for you.

 

Dixon's is CLOSED on Wednesdays.......so any chance you can do this on Thursday like you said?  Sorry to give you the bad news!

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This thread inspired me to take my muzzleloader out on Sunday afternoon.

 

Unfortunately, I started-off with a misfire for the first round - in my hurry, I neglected to wipe the bore, and it took several caps to burn-thru whatever oil had accumulated and fire the first loading.  After that, it was "click-bang!" for the rest of the afternoon.

 

I was a bit concerned with the first few rounds - I wasn't seeing any holes in the target.  For the 4th or 5th round, I intentionally shot high, and all of a sudden...a hole appeared on the paper.  Seems the gun was keeping all the shots in the black, and I couldn't see 'em!

 

Overall, I was very happy...  :)

 

 

Thompson Center .54 cal New Englander, 50 grains Pyrodex RS shooting T/C Maxi Balls

 

Wiping the bore PRIOR to loading the first charge is ALWAYS a good idea.  Using Barricade to force oil through the entire ignition pathway and out the nipple, then storing the gun MUZZLE-DOWN on some paper toweling is an even better one (this lets all of that excess oil drain out of the snail instead of draining INTO it)!  And doing all of this and then remembering to snap a couple caps PRIOR to loading is, well, PRICELESS!  LOL!

 

We've all been there and been through what you just wrote.  I'm really glad you had a great time and the misfire didn't create a haunting problem the way they sometimes do with Pyrodex.  Glad I inspired you to go out and enjoy yourself!

 

Have the rest of a nice week!

 

Dave

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This thread inspired me to take my muzzleloader out on Sunday afternoon.

 

Unfortunately, I started-off with a misfire for the first round - in my hurry, I neglected to wipe the bore, and it took several caps to burn-thru whatever oil had accumulated and fire the first loading.  After that, it was "click-bang!" for the rest of the afternoon.

 

I was a bit concerned with the first few rounds - I wasn't seeing any holes in the target.  For the 4th or 5th round, I intentionally shot high, and all of a sudden...a hole appeared on the paper.  Seems the gun was keeping all the shots in the black, and I couldn't see 'em!

 

Overall, I was very happy...  :)

 

 

Thompson Center .54 cal New Englander, 50 grains Pyrodex RS shooting T/C Maxi Balls

As Rosey stated always store muzzle down after cleaning and always fire a cap before your first load. As for me, I fire one cap with the muzzle inches away from a blade or grass or leaf. Make sure it moves. This tells you that everything is clear from  cap to muzzle. Then I dump between 30-60 grains of powder down the barrel, cap and fire. I put no projectile in the gun. This is a blank charge. Then I take a spit patch and run it up and down the bore one time. Now the gun is ready to be loaded and fired. You may ask why the empty charge. To me, consistency is accuracy. Just like bow shooters that use anchoring points and shooters who dig their feet into the ground to keep their feet in the same position. By pouring the powder and shooting it then wiping, I keep the barrel the same with every shot. So after every shot I spit patch. You will find people that say to never wipe the bore or say only when you can't get the bullet out or when the shots are rising. To me, what they are saying is the bore is changing and making them less accurate with their gun. Now with that said, with black powder rifles everyone has there own way and no one person does it the "right" way. I know plenty of people who shoot very accurately with their smoke poles and never patch it or very little. It's actually one of the great things about BP shooting and what levels the playing fields

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...Then I dump between 30-60 grains of powder down the barrel, cap and fire. I put no projectile in the gun. This is a blank charge. Then I take a spit patch and run it up and down the bore one time. Now the gun is ready to be loaded and fired. You may ask why the empty charge. To me, consistency is accuracy. .....

Interesting idea...that makes double-sure she will fire, AND eliminates the different impact point from an un-fouled bore. 

 

I'll have to try that....

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well it looks like i got everything i needed to get started today. a big thank you to dave. hopefully ill get a chance this sunday to shoot it. if i get it sighted in decent ill look into trying out a match at old bridge in the near future. a range report will follow.

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well it looks like i got everything i needed to get started today. a big thank you to dave. hopefully ill get a chance this sunday to shoot it. if i get it sighted in decent ill look into trying out a match at old bridge in the near future. a range report will follow.

 

Glad to have been of some help.  Remember to start at 65 grains and work up a load 5 grains at a time.  You'll know when you hit the "sweet-spot", because your group will tighten-up.  I'm just guessing, but with 2Fg Goex, I'd bet somewhere between 80-90 grains.  Save your spent fired patches and post photos for me to see so I can make sure that everything is O-K with your load.

 

Always nice helping an Eagle Scout!  Congrats once more on the new rifle and hope to shoot with you soon!

 

Dave

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i think just going to shoot a 3 shot group at each load until im satisfied with the group. ill probably start at 70 and work my way up as most research ive been doing puts loads between 75 and 90 grains. after i figure out which load groups the best ill sight it in for the bullseye. does this sound like a reasonable plan to you guys? or should i do 5 shot groups?

 

and if anyone is free on sunday and would like to join me at EFGA and show me the ropes and help me figure out a load. id really appreciate it.

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Well I went to the range today. Had some problems on my first shot. After 4 caps wouldn't set it off I ended up pulling it out. I still don't know what the issue was but I just reloaded and it was smooth sailing from then on. I started at 80 grains as suggested by someone at the range that had the same gun. It seemed to group within 3-4 in if I did my part at 50 yrd. I spent about 2 hours trying to just get it on that paper because the range would go cold every two shots so someone could change targets, very annoying. So I didnt get to try different loads. All in all I'm very happy with the rifle. Next range trip I will probably only bring this and work on the best load.

 

Dave heres a picture of some patches you requested.

20130915_190943.jpg

 

And one of my better groups.

20130915_185950.jpg

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Just got back from Wild Outdoor at Colliers Mills.

 

Patches look fairly decent.  No evidence of torn patches or burn-through, so your bore isn't rough and it looks like the patch thickness may be spot-on.

 

Sorry to hear that your very first shot had to be pulled!  Dry Ball?  Oil in the gun?  Bad powder?  In any case, glad to hear that it all cleared-up.

 

I might be available on this Saturday to guest you into Old Bridge for that load development you want to try....and it won't take all day since you only stop when YOU need to since you are your own R-O.  I'll check the range calendar and you let me know if you can swing it.

 

Chat soon!

 

Dave

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2F isn't as fine a granulation as 3F, so some of us "Old Fudds" slap the side of the barrel to "settle the charge" into a TC's flash channel, then start the patched round ball so it's easier for the spark from the cap to hit it.  If you store the gun muzzle-down and use a lighter oil in the bore (like Barricade or Rem Oil), whatever the bore needs it takes, and the rest runs-out onto a paper towel.  Before shooting, A dry patch with the worm, then snap TWO caps and the entire ignition pathway is GTG!  Again, glad it all worked-out and you're having some fun!

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i think you'll find better groups at 70 grains with ff then 80. My .54 renegade loves 67 grains and my .50 loves 72. Try the lower charge and it might be better. Renegades I find dirty a little more easier then hawkins. So I swab every shot, but try every 2-4 shots and see how she groups. before loading your first shot, fire a cap. Then dump 20-40 grains down the barrel and shoot it into the air. Then you'll really know her throat is clear.

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