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pbkid6974

T/C renegade .54 cal

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just got this from a buddy of mine. i was planning on buying it from him and even gave him half the agreed price. he broke up with his gf and she kicked him out so i let him come stay with me. this is is how he repaid the favor.

 

now ive got some learning to do. so teach me. what powders to use what projectiles. what percussion caps. how to clean. learn me on the art of muzzleloaders.

 

20130831_195434.jpg

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Thanks, T-Bill, for posting that info...I just recently dug-out my T/C New Englander .54 (very similar to your Renegade, PBK) and started thinking about muzzleloader season in December.

 

As I remember, it liked shooting T/C Maxi-Balls at the lower-end of the recommended loads - 80 or 90 grains of pyrodex.  

 

As for cleaning....use HOT HOT water with a little bit of dish soap-take the barrel off, remove the nipple, stick the back-end of the barrel in a bucket or pan with the hot water and use a wet patch on the jag to suck-the water into the barrel; then push it back down into the pan/bucket. Do that several times with several patches to eliminate all of the blackpowder soot - then empty the barrel of all the water, let the water evaporate, and clean the barrel again 'normally' (no water) and finally, run an oily patch down the barrel to form a film.  

 

You're using HOT HOT water so it will evaporate quickly and not rust the barrel.  I used to add almost-boiling water to hot tap water, and then hold the barrel with an oven mitt while sucking the water in and out.

 

Then, I'd wipe the hammer/lock down with a hot/water-wet patch, then an oily patch.  Same with the metal that holds the barrel in, and the nipple.  Then re-assemble and store it for the next time!

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Muzzleloader has some science to it. Every gun is differn't. I actually shoot that exact gun and with patched round balls it will shoot as accurate as you are all day. For mine I use 67gr of goex ff with a square .020 patch and .530 round ball. Now for you. I would recommend getting some .530 round balls and either .015 or .018 lubed patches. General rule of thumb is 1.5gr times the caliber. So 1.5x54=81. So start with 75 grains. Go up and down in 5gr increments about 25 grains. Take 5 shots at each increments and see where she likes to be. Usually between 60-75 is where they like. Caps, get yourself some #11 caps. Before shooting always fire 2 caps at a blade of grass or leaf to clear the nipple. After the cap goes off, the grass or leaf should move. If it does not, check the gun because there is a clog somewhere. While shooting you will need to see when she likes to be cleaned. I swab between every shot with mine. Some guys only do it until they cant push it down anymore, others do it until it starts rising. I have reasons why I swab every shot but most dont agree with my logic. If you like, I could meet you at old bridge on a sunday and take you through the steps. I'll give you some round balls for free. I cast my own so it costs literally nothing. For cleaning when you get home, I take the gun apart. I put the nipple in a citrus parts soaker. Then I take the barrel and in the sink i pour room temp to warm water down the bore. I do not use hot water because it will cause flash rust in the bore very quickly. After I dump the water down the bore I fill a mop bucket with soapy water and with a patch and jag I pump the soapy water up and down the bore. After this I dump the water out and rinse it to get the crud and soap out. Then I pour water down the bore to get all the soap out. Then fill the bucket with clean water and pump it threw. After that I take a few dry patches and run them down to dry as much as I can. Then I take Butch's bore shine and send a few patches down the bore until the patch comes out clean. Next I take the last couple used patches and wipe down the area around the nipple and stock to get all the residue off. I take a screw driver and wrap the patch around it to get the hammer and snail real good. After that I take sea foam deep creep on a few patches and run them down the bore. after that I wipe down all metal parts with the seafoam. Take the nipple out and clean with a wire brush. The rifle is then stored on a paper towel upside down for 2-3 days so all the excess oil flows out the gun instead of into the back of the gun clogging you when the rifle is used next. Feel free to ask more or pm me

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That Renegade is in nice shape for an older one. Good luck with it.

I can't offer any more wisdom on cleaning techniques than those already provided.

I use my Renegade for hunting and its 1:48 twist stabilizes the T/C Maxi-Ball very well. I've had good luck with 110 grs. of Pyrodex RS with the 430 gr. Maxi-Ball and #11 RWS caps in my Renegade. This load was the most accurate of all I tried and the only one I use for hunting. Zeroed for 100 yds., it prints 2" high @ 50 yds. and is 9" low at 150 yds. Energy at 150 yds. is still 1,000 ft. lbs. I've never recovered a Maxi-Ball from a whitetail.

 

Buffalo Arms 390 gr. &  425 gr. HBHP's shot well for me, although I've never tried them on game.

 

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Muzzleloader has some science to it. Every gun is differn't. I actually shoot that exact gun and with patched round balls it will shoot as accurate as you are all day. For mine I use 67gr of goex ff with a square .020 patch and .530 round ball. Now for you. I would recommend getting some .530 round balls and either .015 or .018 lubed patches. General rule of thumb is 1.5gr times the caliber. So 1.5x54=81. So start with 75 grains. Go up and down in 5gr increments about 25 grains. Take 5 shots at each increments and see where she likes to be. Usually between 60-75 is where they like. Caps, get yourself some #11 caps. Before shooting always fire 2 caps at a blade of grass or leaf to clear the nipple. After the cap goes off, the grass or leaf should move. If it does not, check the gun because there is a clog somewhere. While shooting you will need to see when she likes to be cleaned. I swab between every shot with mine. Some guys only do it until they cant push it down anymore, others do it until it starts rising. I have reasons why I swab every shot but most dont agree with my logic. If you like, I could meet you at old bridge on a sunday and take you through the steps. I'll give you some round balls for free. I cast my own so it costs literally nothing. For cleaning when you get home, I take the gun apart. I put the nipple in a citrus parts soaker. Then I take the barrel and in the sink i pour room temp to warm water down the bore. I do not use hot water because it will cause flash rust in the bore very quickly. After I dump the water down the bore I fill a mop bucket with soapy water and with a patch and jag I pump the soapy water up and down the bore. After this I dump the water out and rinse it to get the crud and soap out. Then I pour water down the bore to get all the soap out. Then fill the bucket with clean water and pump it threw. After that I take a few dry patches and run them down to dry as much as I can. Then I take Butch's bore shine and send a few patches down the bore until the patch comes out clean. Next I take the last couple used patches and wipe down the area around the nipple and stock to get all the residue off. I take a screw driver and wrap the patch around it to get the hammer and snail real good. After that I take sea foam deep creep on a few patches and run them down the bore. after that I wipe down all metal parts with the seafoam. Take the nipple out and clean with a wire brush. The rifle is then stored on a paper towel upside down for 2-3 days so all the excess oil flows out the gun instead of into the back of the gun clogging you when the rifle is used next. Feel free to ask more or pm me

ill definitely have to take you up on that offer to shoot. all i got is the gun no tools or anything to take the barrel off or any cleaning attachments for the ramrod. so once i pick them up ill let you know.

That Renegade is in nice shape for an older one. Good luck with it.

 

I can't offer any more wisdom on cleaning techniques than those already provided.

 

I use my Renegade for hunting and its 1:48 twist stabilizes the T/C Maxi-Ball very well. I've had good luck with 110 grs. of Pyrodex RS with the 430 gr. Maxi-Ball and #11 RWS caps in my Renegade. This load was the most accurate of all I tried and the only one I use for hunting. Zeroed for 100 yds., it prints 2" high @ 50 yds. and is 9" low at 150 yds. Energy at 150 yds. is still 1,000 ft. lbs. I've never recovered a Maxi-Ball from a whitetail.

 

Buffalo Arms 390 gr. &  425 gr. HBHP's shot well for me, although I've never tried them on game.

 

 

 

it is in fantastic shape. i dont know when these were made but i doubt its been fired more than 10 times if at all.

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i took it apart when i was looking at it before i offered to buy it then went to cabelas the next day and they had a little claw thing to pull that wedge out. i had a rough time trying to pull the wedge out so im going to pick up one of those. i also need a ball started and some other odds and ends before im ready to hit the range with it. ill probably get them this week. im excited to learn about all this. it is really becoming a lost art with all these new in line muzzle loaders.

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I tried Maxi's once and they shot good. I find most rifles shoot the R.E.A.L conical the best.I have them for my .50's, .54, and .58. Lubed with Wonder Lube 1000 Plus and bee's wax

 

The Maxi-Ball is a R.E.A.L. bullet of sorts. The leading band is slightly oversized compared to the other two, and engraves upon loading. The two lower bands allow easy, precise loading into the muzzle. Upon firing, obturation occurs and the rifling engages all bands. T/C later added a system called Q.L.A. to their muzzleloaders, a false-muzzle if you will, to make loading easier for all types of projectiles. Early Renegades's and Hawken's do not have this feature.

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I enhanced my Renegade by adding a T/C peep sight and replacing the Partridge front sight with a T/C bead sight.

 

Peeps are good in some aspects to me. I have one on one of my tc Cherokee's. I like a peep better for .32 cause hunting for squirrels with it allows me to see more of the animal. Target wise I like my irons.

i took it apart when i was looking at it before i offered to buy it then went to cabelas the next day and they had a little claw thing to pull that wedge out. i had a rough time trying to pull the wedge out so im going to pick up one of those. i also need a ball started and some other odds and ends before im ready to hit the range with it. ill probably get them this week. im excited to learn about all this. it is really becoming a lost art with all these new in line muzzle loaders.

you don't need the claw if you don't want to buy one. A flat head screw driver will work fine.

 

The Maxi-Ball is a R.E.A.L. bullet of sorts. The leading band is slightly oversized compared to the other two, and engraves upon loading. The two lower bands allow easy, precise loading into the muzzle. Upon firing, obturation occurs and the rifling engages all bands. T/C later added a system called Q.L.A. to their muzzleloaders, a false-muzzle if you will, you make loading easier for all types of projectiles. Early Renegades's and Hawken's do not have this feature.

Yes I agree. Im kind of weird on thing being I don't like to use what everyone else is using. So since you cant buy R.E.A.L in stores you have to cast them or buy from someone. So I like being different. Also why I don't own a gun in .308 and .30-06 lol. The most accurate conical and conical gun I have is my Navy arms hawkin. Its a .58 and I shoot a 630gr stake buster minnie out of her

2012-12-14_22-06-20_109.jpg

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Peeps are good in some aspects to me. I have one on one of my tc Cherokee's. I like a peep better for .32 cause hunting for squirrels with it allows me to see more of the animal. Target wise I like my irons.

you don't need the claw if you don't want to buy one. A flat head screw driver will work fine.

 

Yes I agree. Im kind of weird on thing being I don't like to use what everyone else is using. So since you cant buy R.E.A.L in stores you have to cast them or buy from someone. So I like being different. Also why I don't own a gun in .308 and .30-06 lol. The most accurate conical and conical gun I have is my Navy arms hawkin. Its a .58 and I shoot a 630gr stake buster minnie out of her

2012-12-14_22-06-20_109.jpg

 

Geez those are big. These slugs look like something fired out of a kiln gun!

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i took it apart when i was looking at it before i offered to buy it then went to cabelas the next day and they had a little claw thing to pull that wedge out. i had a rough time trying to pull the wedge out so im going to pick up one of those. i also need a ball started and some other odds and ends before im ready to hit the range with it. ill probably get them this week. im excited to learn about all this. it is really becoming a lost art with all these new in line muzzle loaders.

T/C makes a small triangular tool with a claw on one corner, a nipple wrench/fitting on the other, and a flat tap-hammer on the third.  Very convenient.

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/3-0509092

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T/C makes a small triangular tool with a claw on one corner, a nipple wrench/fitting on the other, and a flat tap-hammer on the third.  Very convenient.

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/3-0509092

I have one of these tools, well worth keeping around.

 

OP - you will learn quickly that muzzleloading is very gadget oriented (and even more so if you plan to hunt with one).

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I have one of these tools, well worth keeping around.

 

OP - you will learn quickly that muzzleloading is very gadget oriented (and even more so if you plan to hunt with one).

 

Well said. It's one thing when you are at the comfort and convenience of the range, it's another to ensure you have all the stuff necessary in your "possibles bag" when you're off in the woods somewhere a couple miles from your truck.  

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just got this from a buddy of mine. i was planning on buying it from him and even gave him half the agreed price. he broke up with his gf and she kicked him out so i let him come stay with me. this is is how he repaid the favor.

 

now ive got some learning to do. so teach me. what powders to use what projectiles. what percussion caps. how to clean. learn me on the art of muzzleloaders.

 

20130831_195434.jpg

 

It's mostly all been said by very good Mentors, so I'll keep it "short and sweet", lol!

 

If you were at Clinton WMA and saw a guy with a double-barrel black powder shotgun, that was me and we attended the same event.

 

Since you're in Hunterdon Co., you have only half the travel time I do to get to Dixon's.  PM Rob or myself (we're both members of the two largest black powder clubs in NJ) for a shopping list to get you started OR consider meeting me at Dixon's next Thursday (the 12th) since I have to go there and to Dietrich's Meats right down the road (Rt. 737, Exit #40 on Rt. 78).  I'll show you what you'll need to get started and you can pick it all up right then and there.  Since Clinton is a muzzleloader range, if you have a hunting license or go with someone that does, the range is free.  Maybe stop there on the way home if we meet during the business day??

 

Consider coming down to Old Bridge for our regular monthly Match the 1st Sunday of the month.  You'll learn a lot, have FUN and meet some new friends.

 

Dave

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I can pretty much be flexible.  I've made the trip countless times.  Best time to start-out from my house is around 9:30 am (Sayreville area).  Dixon's is about 1.5 hours for me, and I drive right by the WMA we both shot at, so could meet you along Rt. 78 corridor and I can drive you there.  I also need to pick-up some meats and cheese from Dietrich's Meats:   www.dietrichsmeats.com   .  Cabela's is only 11 miles down the road from Dietrich's.  Dixon's is just 3 miles down RT. 737 from Dietrich's.  Cigars International has a newer store built on Cabela's front yard.  Pinnacle Ridge Winery only 1/2 mile from Dietrich's.  So plenty to do if you want to?  The "trick" to avoid any bad traffic is to "get outta Dodge" before 3:00 pm, so I don't sit in bumper-to-bumper rush-hour traffic on Rt. 287 So. in Piscataway on the way home.  

 

As for the number of places to stop at, that's up to you, as long as I get to Dixon's and Dietrich's I'm all good.  So get back to me and let me know what your schedule looks like for Thursday the 12th.

 

Dave

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Well my issue is that I work until 3. So I I wouldn't be able to get there until the late afternoon.

 

I can flex and arrange it so we go after you get outta work; just have to make Dixon's before they close at 5:00 pm for dinner.  Then get to Dietrich's before they close at 6:30 pm.  And I need to get something for dinner while out in that area, since I'm diabetic.  

 

What town do you work in til 3:00 pm?  It might still be do-able, so long as you don't get hung-up in traffic returning to PA...  So let me know.

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So how'd you guys make out?

 

Still waiting to hear from him about the 12th.

 

In the meantime I picked up some 10 ga. wonder wads already.  I'll soak them in bore butter to use at Colliers Mills.  Every 3rd BLANK gets a soaked wonder-wad...keeps fouling nice and soft so .125 OP cards slide down the bore.  Tight OP cards ensure decent compression for the BLANKS, make nice boom and leaves less residue!

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