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TheDon

SAR Slipping Off Barrelnut

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What can I use to add friction between my SAR rail and Titanium barrelnut?  Whenever I get my AR all hot and bothered over a couple hundred rounds, the SAR slips forward.  I can shoot it right off the barrel nut after only around 300 rounds. 

 

First time it happened, I gave it a thorough degreasing and reassembled.

Second time it happened, I did the same, but went overkill on the locktight. 

Third time it happened, I sent it back to Spikes. 

Fourth time it happened, I applied red locktight directly to the barrel nut. 

I put around 200 rounds through it this past weekend and it has already slipped half the way down the nut.

 

Any ideas what I am doing wrong? 

 

ETA: a picture paints a thousand words. 

316571_1590604383102_1217347090_n.jpg

Edited by TheDon

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If you loosen the allen screws could you possibly with the handguard about where it is in pic take maybe 2 of the thin flexible blades from a set of "feeler gauges" (stainless steel) wrap the nut and slide handguard back to upper and tighten?.... Not sure if there would be some type of reaction of the dissimilar metal contact

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If you loosen the allen screws could you possibly with the handguard about where it is in pic take maybe 2 of the thin flexible blades from a set of "feeler gauges" (stainless steel) wrap the nut and slide handguard back to upper and tighten?.... Not sure if there would be some type of reaction of the dissimilar metal contact

 

I believe aluminum in tight contact with steel is no-go.  But, I do like your thinking about bedding the barrel with something.  I just can't think of something that will withstand the temperatures and not cause corrosion.  Just looking for ideas to try before sending back to Spikes.  Not happy with the idea of being without an AR for a month. 

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What about at lowes/homedepot in the isle that has the various threaded/smooth rod and small pieces of sheet metal ... Maybe they sell thin aluminum or even the aluminum flashing possibly .... Would it be the same as aluminum handguard or is the aluminum used a different grade possibly?

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Thanks for the advice guys.  Unfortunately, I own neither a drill press nor a tap set. 

I know a couple friends with the equipment and the skills.  I'll have them give it a shot. 

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what was spikes answer the first time you sent it back?

IMHO, I think they simply reassembled it and sent it back.  Zero improvement. 

I suppose I could contact them and drive a more in-depth conversation.  IMHO, I think the rail is defective. 

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So the barrel nut is cylindrical, and the forearm just tightens down on it like the old troy or the sampson rail but without any interference with the geometry? Just a friction fit on a polished surface. 

 

That's what I get form looking for installation info. 

 

I think the problem is it was engineered stupid, I don't see how you can make that not happen without babying the gun or going with stickygrips idea, which would likely not work well if you ever needed to disassemble and reassemble. Every other smooth barrel nut I have seen that lets you not worry about clocking the nut to the gas tube has a channel machined in it to lock into. 

 

 

Hmm it's made by seekins, and now seekins sells the sar gen2. Whic shickingly enough doesn't use the same barrel nut design.Notice it no longer clamps onto a smooth nut.  

 

 

 http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=SKN%2DSAR&PhotoNumber=9

 

 

grr edited that into the wrong thread first time around. 

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Is this some oddball prototype that sneaked our or something?  Just boggles my mind that that they'd sell a rail with a friction fit only.  I have two different spike's rails (one is a BAR, forget what the other one is at the moment) and they both have fasteners that go through the rail and into the barrel nut.

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