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By Gunlawyernj
My first pistol was a used 92fs inox in very good shape. I love it. I don't know how old it was when I got it, but i've had it well over 10 years. On my last two range outings, I've experienced the oddest FTF pattern i've ever seen. It FTF on the 4th round every time. I thought maybe its the ammo, and tried three different brands, with 115gr and 124gr. I used two different magazines. I even stripped and cleaned between outings. I fire three rounds and FTF on the fourth. Clear the jam, 3 and FTF on the fourth. Ive even tried using the rounds that FTF and put them in the first three with no issues, until the fourth round.
Something mechanical must be going wrong. Ive looked around and seen a few possible issues to try and solve this short of going to a gunsmith.
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks,
Jason
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By HBecwithFn7
I was at an outdoor range, yesterday with my 2A mentor. I loaded up my P226 (it's been a while since I've shot it) with some AE 147gr flat heads.
"Goin' Hot..," and then.... "Click...." nothing.....
I wait to ensure it wasn't a hang fire, then cleared the weapon and ejected the round. Sure enough there was a light depression in the primer. I tried again, and "click...." nothing...
My mentor loaned me some standard AE 115Gr round nose. I loaded up two of those. And, lo and behold, they fire without issue! Then I tried some of my Hornady "Critical Duty" rounds. First round.... BANG! No problem. 2nd round..... ."click......" Ruh-Roh..... As before, a light depression in the primer. One more time with Hornady and..... "click....." nothing! I try the flat heads in my Shield, and "BANG....BANG...BANG..." all fires, no issues.
So, I'm thinking, maybe a "sticky firing pin" in the P226? Perhaps a more detailed cleaning is in order? Or is this something that may require a bit of smithing?
FTR, my P226 is the only one of my inventory that I cleaned initially with "Froglube." My mentor has soured quite a bit on FrogLube, now. The other of my inventory has been cleaned with Hoppes 9 and Hoppes std. oil, along with gun grease for the rails.
Anyway, all help truly appreciated, since I have to use this gun later this month for my MAG-40 class. If I'm going to need smithing, I need to know ASAP. I also need to find a good gunsmith that does P226's in the Gainesville FL area.
Thanks much all.
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By VaultDweller
This is my second purchase, I saw this on gunbroker for $100 less than the MSRP and jumped on it.
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=341904590
It's a Ruger Mark III Target .22, in Stainless Steel! Comes with an optics mount!
Can't wait to get it!
(Of course, I have to wait, but that's OK)
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Posts
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By silverado427 · Posted
The 12-1 compression ratio L88 is long gone. This is GM's updated version. it might be pump gas 10-1 engine The L88 was a aluminum head cast iron block engine with a nasty solid lifter cam. the ZL1 was a all aluminum 12 or 13-1 compression ratio engine with the best forged internal parts at the time and had a even nastier solid lifter cam -
By maintenanceguy · Posted
I like my regular carry holster. OWB leather with belt slots. I've been carrying for over a year and it was comfortable and I hardly even noticed it. I carry (usually) a Ruger LCP .380 - light, convenient, tiny. But...today I ended up taking it off an leaving it home after a few hours. I cut down a big maple tree a few days ago and I spent 3/4 of today loading and unloading firewood into the back of my truck and a trailer. It was a warm day, I was dirty, tired, sweaty, and my holster was rubbing against my side. The leather and exposed metal snap was no longer comfortable. I'm thinking about adding a layer of something to that part of the holster to soften the contact. Anything insulating will make it worse. I don't want a sweaty, hotter holster against my skin. I'm imagining something thin, breathable, that won't absorb sweat, and softer than leather, metal snaps, and rivets. But I have no idea what would work. I'm hoping somebody else has already figured this out and I can just do what they did. Any suggestions appreciated. -
Check the primers on the ammo you didn't shoot yet. Are they fully seated? If the primer is not just below flush with the back of the case, the first hit can seat it better then the second hit ignites it.
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