Jump to content
checko

So I'm a dumbass......

Recommended Posts

I'll try to keep this short.  So I just bought an aimpoint t-1 off another forum member.  It was a good price and in excellent condition.  It came with an absolute cowitness mount and I prefer a lower 1/3 so naturally I go to switch it out.  Unfortunately my dumbass strips one of the screw holes on the aimpoint a day after buying it.  

 

I contacted aimpoint, got an rma in a day, and sent the sight out asap.  On the 5th day, I had a new (presumably a refurb, but thats fine with me) aimpoint t-1 waiting for me at my door.  Thats including the weekend!

 

I'm pretty amazed by the speed and service from the manufacturer and honestly, if you are on the fence about spending the dough, just do it.  

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

Opens for me.........

 

:(

 

Basically an inch pound torque wrench.........

 

 

 

 

Well, if you stripped the last out, and now you just hand tightened them with loctite..... I would think you do....or a better judge of what 'tight' is. Sorry not being a douche but....well maybe it appears I am but that is not my intent..... from your manual (or I think it is):

 

To make sure that the Shaft is firmly tightened, screw the Shaft

(11) clockwise until a light resistance can be encountered.

After that, screw another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. WARNING! Do not

over tighten

 

So I had a guy locally that I used to ride with, he had a nice K75RT and he was doing an oil change......I happened to be doing my 1100rt as well and I was searching for torque specs for the drain plug......he looks at me laughs and says in a germanish accent "guduntight"..... I was like I'll find it........as he is tightening his up, I hear a soft click and his eyes widen..... he stripped out his drain hole. So much for guduntight......

 

There are torque specs for a reason.... and there is a difference between a dry spec and if lube is applied.

 

YMMV but I would search some more for a torque spec and follow it. If you choose not to do that and follow the manual.....

 

Try this.....tighten it by hand till it binds, then with your finger tips and finger tips only tighten the 1/4 turn.... you get less force from finger tips as opposed to a full hand on a driver........

 

Just my .02

 

Maybe I didn't make myself clear. I tightened the screw woth star key until resistance was felt, then turned until screw didn't want to continue, about a 1/4 turn.

 

I've used screws before, but like I said, in my haste, I just tried to put it on too tight. Torque wrenches and drivers have their place, but I don't feel I need it for this application. Thanks though

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've used Aimpoint's CS a couple times and every time, they've gone above and beyond.  I had a bad T1 that wouldn't stay on during recoil and it wasn't a loose battery.  The other time, the windage knob didn't work on a PRO.  Both times, I couldn't tell if they fixed or replaced but I had the optics back with extraordinary speed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.



  • olight.jpg

    Use Promo Code "NJGF10" for 10% Off Regular Items

  • Supporting Vendors

  • Latest Topics

  • Posts

    • We never let then inside.  Last re-evaluation was 6-7 years ago, wife politely told him that he was welcome to look around the property and he could look in the windows. He saw two white resin chairs in the basement and told her that this constituted a finished basement. And everything in the basement is bare concrete/ cinder block, and mechanical systems. Nothing finished about it. Ultimately he relented and I'm sure that was a ploy to coerce us to allow him in
    • I use an Alien Gear cloak tuck (IWB) with my Shield.  Neoprene back - in the summer it does feel warm but doesn't rub or chafe.   https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-iwb-holster.html Could also go with the shapeshift as it has multiple options - OWB/IWB, Appendix... https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-shapeshift-modular-holster-system.html
    • The  12-1 compression ratio L88 is long gone. This is GM's updated version. it might be  pump gas 10-1 engine The L88 was a aluminum head  cast iron block engine with a nasty solid lifter cam. the  ZL1 was a all aluminum  12 or 13-1 compression ratio engine with the best forged internal parts at the time and had a even nastier solid lifter cam 
    • I like my regular carry holster.  OWB leather with belt slots.  I've been carrying for over a year and it was comfortable and I hardly even noticed it.  I carry (usually) a Ruger LCP .380 - light, convenient, tiny. But...today I ended up taking it off an leaving it home after a few hours. I cut down a big maple tree a few days ago and I spent 3/4 of today loading and unloading firewood into the back of my truck and a trailer.  It was a warm day, I was dirty, tired, sweaty, and my holster was rubbing against my side.  The leather and exposed metal snap was no longer comfortable. I'm thinking about adding a layer of something to that part of the holster to soften the contact.  Anything insulating will make it worse.  I don't want a sweaty, hotter holster against my skin.  I'm imagining something thin, breathable, that won't absorb sweat, and softer than leather, metal snaps, and rivets.   But I have no idea what would work. I'm hoping somebody else has already figured this out and I can just do what they did. Any suggestions appreciated.
    • Check the primers on the ammo you didn't shoot yet. Are they fully seated? If the primer is not just below flush with the back of the case, the first hit can seat it better then the second hit ignites it. 
×
×
  • Create New...