Does anyone know how to decipher a soil analysis

[GrumpyOldRetiree 38]

I've been looking for property in PA to build a house to retire to.

Recently, I found a 10 acre "farmette" that looks like a decent candidate and the realtor sent me a bunch of info that included a detailed "soil map"

The bulk of the property is described as "BkC" which is code for "berks shaly silt loam, 8 to 15% slope"

 

I've done a google search, but the results illustrate that I would have to take 10 geology courses before I could understand what that means.

 

The property does not have any structures on it, but there is a capped well and in-ground septic system already installed., so I assume it perks OK.

 

My goal is to built a house with a poured basement/foundation and establish a large garden & blueberry field, but I don't want to have to truck in 50 tons of dirt to accomplish this.

 

Can anyone give me a layman's explanation of what this soil rating means?

 

Thanks for any feedback.

[maintenanceguy 510]

dirt comes in three sizes.   Sand is big particles - drains great.  Silt is smaller particles - feels smooth in the hands but if you bite it it's gritty between your teeth.   Clay is small particles and drains terrible.  Clay also expands when it gets wet so it's poor to build on.

 

Loam is good farming soil.   40% Sand, 40% Silt, 20% Clay.  Holds  a little water but drains well.  

 

You have "silt loam" which means extra silt and probably extra clay.  It won't drain great but it's still got enough sand that it's not terrible.  Lots of farmers are growing successfully in silt loam.

 

Shaly is what concerns me.  It's got a lot of broken up stone in the soil which probably means a lot of rock that's not broken up.   It may not be a good place to garden.

 

But...stone is great to build on.

 

Take a shovel and dig  hole.  You'll soon know if you want to try to work that soil or not.

 

But there's more.....

 

in addition to the sizes of particles, organic matter is hugely important.   Your report says nothing about that.  Take a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension office and see what the report says.  I think it's $7 per sample to have it analyzed and somebody at the center will be able to explain exactly what the report means.

[GRIZ 3,369]

I'd try contacting the Rutgers Cooperative Extension Office in your county. Google that for more info.

[Purple Patrick 638]

I'd try contacting the Rutgers Cooperative Extension Office in your county. Google that for more info.

Do this

 

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[capt14k 2,052]

You want to read the map there should be 5 locations near the house site area with a number, this is your seasonable high water table. It needs to be 2' to not have a mounded system, but with the grade of the property which is the 8-15% you may still need a slightly mounded system if it is right at 2'. Just because there is are existing septic and well doesn't mean they work properly. Well and Septic should be 100' from each other. Slab should be 3' above the seasonable high water table. If water table is at 2' or less you will bringing in sand and clean fill. Basement will be above grade. At least by NJ standards. Garage under design works well with high water table and basement above ground. If property slopes correctly you could get a walk out basement.

 

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[dino71 4]

The soil rating from the "MAP" really means nothing. Its just gives a very broad sense to what soil type/classification is in the general area. Unless you get a soil log(s) and have a trained soils engineer (like me) look at it then that will give you some idea of a maximum allowable soil bearing capacity or rate of drainage. I have even started using some new software that you can plug in soil log data and it will simulate 10/25/50/100 year storm events. Or as someone suggested above, you can get a backhoe and just dig a hole and try to create your own soil log. If you go to your town hall the building department has records of (S.H.W.T.) Seasonal High Water Table based on wells that are monitored during the year, it would give you a great starting point to where your proposed basement finished floor elevation can be and if one (or two) sumps pumps might be needed. I hope this helped. If you want to email me then data that you have I can look at next week and give you an assessment.