gunnyr

FWIW, a 25 yard zero shot at an actual 300 yard target in my experience has resulted in some pretty craptastic groups (to include complete misses). 36 yards will get you a 300 yard zero. Not much difference between 25 and 36 but that difference is magnified at 300 yards. Usually it's caused by some bad shooting habit that doesn't really manifest itself at such a short range. Best bet is to just re-zero the weapon at 300 (using the 25yd BZO as a baseline). But yeah in regards to the OP it's no surprise the 75gr round drops that much at that distance if you're basing it on a 55gr zero.

I've always wondered how the saiga would do with trap. Atco raceway is only about a half hour from me too....hmmmmm.

What's the mag tube capacity for this model? I used to roll around with 9 rounds in mine. Oh jeez, that was a serious brain fart. I forgot we're in NJ and it's a semi shotty, so the answer is 5.

Option 2: Buy a non-converted Saiga, restore it yourself, spend the $400 you saved on ammo and mags. From the looks of it, that bayo lug is part of the front sight block. So maybe a swap out of the fsb is all that needs to be done.

The free market is not about debt, it is about value. In a free market transaction, both the producer and the consumer are better off for having expended something. The producer their labor, the consumer their money. Regarding debt between two private parties it is understood that the issuer (creditor) expects future labor or repayment from the debtor. Each understands their end of the agreement and volunteers to abide by it. The current monetary system exists for the purposes of keeping central banks in power and allowing unlimited government spending. The gold standard kept government spending honest as it couldn't do anything unless it had the money first. The Byzantine empire lasted for a thousand years with gold as their monetary standard. It collapsed when it devalued their currency to fund wars against the Ottoman empire. Prior to that it had funded its wars based on what it had in the treasury. When it comes to government debt, what is less understood is that their spending is backed by our (and our children, grandchildren, etc) future labor. Government isn't spending money, it hasn't got any. It is spending the promissory notes of our future earnings. This is what we call the dollar. The reason there is more money in circulation isn't because there is more debt, it's because the Fed printed more. How else can you justify a tripling of the adjusted monetary base overnight like they did in September of 2008? Was there a 300% increase of debt in such a short amount of time? No, there was not. Inflation (and the ensuing hike in interest rates) is caused by an increase in the money supply. Period. This will become painfully clear once that new money hits general circulation instead of being parked as excess reserves in bank holdings. Economically speaking, how can an entity like the government have anything of value? It produces nothing, owns nothing, sells nothing. Yet it holds tremendous power because of ordinary people like yourself. Do you understand why? (Answer below)

And a cop (PK90) just told you otherwise. njitmetal, you're good to go.

For what it's worth my .308 was canted as well. My fix was to get windage adjustable rear sights instead of knocking the piss out of the front sight post with a hammer. I was worried about loosening the tension provided by the drift pins and the .308 recoil eventually knocking it loose.

Yeah that's what was running through my head also...even LEO's come down with a case of Glock Leg every now and then. Dry firing isn't bad and certainly beats not practicing but if you can, get to a range that allows you to draw from a holster and shoot. Take it slow and work up to speed. Best of luck.

Thanks for the explanation. Kinda makes sense but I've used a rifle at close quarters also. Like I said, at speed, it takes too much time. As soon as I saw a hand on my weapon I'd immediately go on the offensive, using whatever level of the continuum of force I deemed appropriate. The time and effort required to retract the weapon and secure it is better spent stepping into your attacker and disabling him/her. Chalk it up to different philosophies I suppose.

In my head I'm playing this scenario out at speed and it's not coming out well for the rifle guy. While he's making sure he's got the butt stock secured the other guy is shooting him in the face...and probably succeeding.

Standard capacity mags for the weapons I already have.

Yeah, I've used the full auto version in 7.62x39 and it really is destructive poetry in motion.

As in "really really easy to bumpfire smooth". I've double-tapped so many times on the G2 while riding the trigger reset it's not even funny. I think one of these days I will swap it out for a Red Star Arms trigger. Anyway congrats on the restoration job aj! Looks good. Let us know how she shoots for you!

Before you go drilling any holes on the gun, contact Tom Cole at Cadiz Gun Works (he's also at the saiga forums as Vankiller) because he's contracted to do warranty work on defective guns. I believe he's still doing that for the newer importers. At any rate, if your gun is undergassed, see what he has to say about getting it fixed. Also, if you go to the Tromix website, I think Tony Rumore is still offering the saiga break-in and maintenance pamphlet as a downloadable pdf. FWIW I ran 500 rounds of birdshot to break in my S-12 (that made for a fun day). It's never once choked on Remington Target Loads. Like any semi shotgun, it can be finicky about ammo so you may want to mix it up and see if that makes a difference. As far as I know, it hates the cheap Winchester stuff and I've never used that on the gun.

The only thing I'm changing on the s-12 is a better gas knob. I want to be able to adjust it without tools.

Yes. They even come in .308/7.62x51 flavors as well.

I didn't specify if the shotguns were threaded on the inside or outside, just that they were threaded.

Yes...and no. If the sights are mil-spec each windage click should correspond to 1/4 minute of angle. If you don't care to get into figuring out how to set dope on your rifle (adjusting sights for conditions/range) then yes, set it so that it hits at the range you are shooting, then compensate with kentucky windage (shift your point of aim) to account for wind (or even distance) from that point on. In all honesty, unless you are doing match type shooting, the 5.56 round is a pretty fast mover and you'll be able to hit within 4-6 inches unless the wind is really gusty. My advice is to wait for a calm day to zero your rifle if you don't want to mess around with windage adjustments much. There are a lot of shooters that will move their windage left or right based on the shooting conditions that they are dealing with at that moment. Personally, I would only change it if I was at the 300 yard line or at the 500 and even then it was based on how strong the wind was blowing. Once I get into a sight picture I don't like to come out of it to make changes on the knob. It really boils down to how you prefer to aim and shoot. Edited to add: When looking at the front sight post, you want it centered inside the ring. On reading the first part of your question it sounded like you may have been moving it inside there. I just wanted to make it clear that the front sight post is always centered.

Aww hell, now this would have been an interesting event!! I've got a bunch of friends that do 5k's and several of them would definitely have been up for this. It does say all equipment provided so I'm thinking that the rifles are provided and maybe you pay for ammo and targets?

They are the yardage for the range that you are shooting. Cranked all the way down, the 6/3 marking is for the 300 yard line. Cranked all the way up, it's the 600 yard line. 6/3 - 2 (two clicks below or down from that marking) is where you start when zeroing at the 200 yard line. Use the same if zeroing at 25 yards. When the windage marking is at dead center, this is your mechanical zero. Start from here and make a note of your clicks to get your groups to point of aim. This is your own personal zero. My zero was always 8 up and 14 right at 200 yards.

1. I'm partial to Cheaper Than Dirt. But I agree with Glenn. Buy a 99 cent spray bottle at home depot and fill it with water, have a can of wd40 in your range supplies. After shooting corrosive, break rifle down, super saturate parts in contact with the gases with water, then follow up with wd40 to get rid of the water. Oil it when you get home. 2. Cheaper Than Dirt, Sportman's Guide, Tickbite Supply to name a few. My opinion, the issue AK sling sucks. You're better off putting an aftermarket sling on there especially if you actually plan to use the sling while shooting. 3. You should be able to see all the screws you need to remove to take the wood off the rifle. Other than google, you could also hit up youtube.

Sorry, I missed that part on your post. But I agree, it doesn't work well for those surfaces. I don't really use serrated blades anymore. I used to take a lot of time caring for my steel. But the fact of the matter is, when you put steel to hard use, it's going to get nicked, bent, and not look as pretty as when you first got it. I've got blades nicked up so bad that it looks like someone took a bite out of it. I don't buy expensive knives anymore and I don't obsess about keeping it razor sharp. I'm mostly talking about EDC or fighting knives here. I've started a collection of not very expensive hand forged Japanese knives that are laminated steel. Good stuff and I do try not to abuse those the same way I do my working knives.

I stop at Pep Boys and get the 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper. I tape that temporarily onto a mouse pad and strop my blade on it. Only takes a few passes and I'm done. I used to do the Japanese wetstone thing but I've got more important stuff to do.

The threads are for chokes, which 99% of the shotguns in the state probably have at the end of their barrels also.

Keltec P3AT.