jerseygti337 0 Posted August 18, 2013 I'm finally swallowing my pride and looking for some help. I've been shooting pistols for about a year and a half and I still basically suck, always shoot left with not real tight groups from 15 yards and closer. Beyond thatI would be lucky to hit the target. I've read tons of info online and I don't seem to be improving at all. My groups at 7-10 yards would typically be 3-4" left in a 6" group. Can anyone recommend a class or instructor in south jersey to get me on the right track? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerseygti337 0 Posted August 18, 2013 This is what I'm working with. Aiming at the small circle I end up with that group to the left (10 yards) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blksheep 466 Posted August 18, 2013 Sight picture....trigger control. Sights alinged and not distuebing feont sight as trigger breaks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bhunted 887 Posted August 18, 2013 Anticipating shot, poor finger placement. Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD Typos courtesy Apple... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerseygti337 0 Posted August 18, 2013 For trigger placement, what would be considered good? It doesn't seem to make a difference for me using the pad or crease. Those shots were using the middle of the pad. As for the gun for hire, what course would be recommended? Does he sill come down to sjsc? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blksheep 466 Posted August 18, 2013 In the middle of the pad, with a straight pull rearward. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smokin .50 1,907 Posted August 18, 2013 Dry-fire practice in a mirror works really well WITH AN UNLOADED GUN! Learn where the sear disengages and keep the gun from moving as the sear "breaks" with the sights properly aligned at the point of ignition. Sounds simple until you try to do it with an out-of-the-box striker-fired Plastic Fantastic. Sometimes the easiest way to solve this problem is to buy a used Model 10 .38 revolver and go old school and learn on a single-action trigger when the gun will go bang. For the cost of ONE class, you'll have another gun for your entire life. Guns are different, like cars and refrigerators. Not every gun is good for everyone. Buying a gun for LOOKS or because someone else told you to do so is plain CRAZY! So is buying one just for ammo capacity. Bottom line--you buy the revolver, cock it back to single action, and at the distance you're working at, almost ALL of your shots will be where you want them. Simple, really, lol! Old School will teach you what you need to know. And then you apply what you learned to every other gun you ever own........ Dave Shootist Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerseygti337 0 Posted August 18, 2013 I should have added, with my dads colt 38 in single action I can do pretty good out to about 20 yards. My problem is with every semi auto I've shot (glocks, sigs, and a 1911) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blksheep 466 Posted August 18, 2013 Compensating with a DA revolver and cocking it and shooting it in SA doesn't fix the problem. OP u understand what sight picture is with ur dads .38. Now apply trgger discipline and relax that grip with a moderate 5.5 lb trigger and ull be fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smokin .50 1,907 Posted August 18, 2013 I should have added, with my dads colt 38 in single action I can do pretty good out to about 20 yards. My problem is with every semi auto I've shot (glocks, sigs, and a 1911) Why do you think that is? Have you developed a flinch? Does the gun move just prior to the sear disengaging? Is your wrist properly aligned to accept the recoil or is it turned slightly? Does the LONG trigger pull on striker-fired guns confuse you and make you twist your wrist just when the sear disengages? YOU'RE NOT ALONE! Nobody ever jumped on a 14 speed bike to learn how to stay on one. They already KNEW. Same goes for proper sight alignment at point of ignition. Once the PRINCIPLE is learned you can apply it to any firearm with a mechanical trigger. You just have to learn the mechanics of what's going on--from your feet UP! Learning exactly how much pressure to apply in an even force with a steady squeeze while keeping the sights aligned at the point of ignition (provided the correct amount of support is coming from the weak hand). The rest is merely repetition. Like dry-firing into a mirror until the gun don't move....... How you walk down the path doesn't matter. The fact that you made it down the path DOES! Any way you want to fix the problem will work as long as it WORKS! Have a great week. Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerseygti337 0 Posted August 19, 2013 I guess I'll give it a little more time to get some more rounds down range. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Old Glock guy 1,127 Posted August 19, 2013 If you're going to do dry-fire training, using a laser cartridge makes it a lot more fun and productive. It will show you where you are hitting when you fire. You could either pick up a cartridge in your caliber from Laserlyte; or you could go all out and get a SIRT trainer. (You can search for them just as easily as I can). The advantage of the former is that you can use it in your own gun, to become familiar with your own trigger. The latter is more expensive, but it can be fired repeatedly without re-racking. You will gain a lot more information about your skills from those than you would from live fire, and you can practice more frequently and save on the cost of ammo. If all else fails, consider a private lesson from someone like Jimmy at Gun for Hire. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
checko 180 Posted August 19, 2013 Dry, dry, dry. Good advice. Use a spent casing to balance on top of your barrel, if you can, and practice only squeezing your trigger finger straight to the rear. Don't try to over grip it or squeeze any other fingers. Once you do this a few (hundred) times start to practice at the range with a round at a time. Build on that. Also if you have snap caps, you can throw them in with your regular rounds at the range (throw them all in your hand and dont look while loading) When you get to the dummy round your gun won't fire and you will easily see if you are flinching or pulling the gun in a certain direction. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerseygti337 0 Posted August 19, 2013 Ill keep trying the dry firing but I just tried the brass on my front sight and it doesn't move. I have to jerk the trigger pretty hard to make it drop so I think my trigger control is ok. Getting the brass balanced and extending the pistol is the hard part but once I have a good sight picture the brass doesn't move. I'm thinking its more form related then anything but I don't know. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
checko 180 Posted August 20, 2013 Try resting between shots as well. If your muscles arent used to holding a heavy hunk of steel for very long you'll start swaying all over the place. Its not a dig at you, just not an everyday function you may need to get used to. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brocglock23 4 Posted August 21, 2013 http://www.gundigest.com/flinch-3-tips-to-overcome-it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites