chrisfc923 14 Posted August 22, 2013 Anyone know a good shop that can do this on the spot in CNJ? Seems a lot of shops I've called treated this like the black plague and wanted nothing to do with it. One even tried to lecture me on how I shouldn't even be doing this in NJ, blah blah blah. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeyjones 88 Posted August 22, 2013 I just took one to rick at omg custom guns. He's a cool guy, not sure how far away he is from you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisfc923 14 Posted August 22, 2013 not too far, maybe about 35mins. What he charge you? And was he able to do it same day? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeyjones 88 Posted August 22, 2013 He quoted me 15-25 depending on how he does it (drill and pin vs silver solder). I'm still waiting for it back, it's been a week. When I dropped it off he told me he's really backed up so I knew it wouldn't be same day. Either way, he seems like a good guy and I've read great reviews on here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisfc923 14 Posted August 22, 2013 He quoted me 15-25 depending on how he does it (drill and pin vs silver solder). I'm still waiting for it back, it's been a week. When I dropped it off he told me he's really backed up so I knew it wouldn't be same day. Either way, he seems like a good guy and I've read great reviews on here. gotcha, thats a great price... i was just going to blind pin it and have them drop weld the pin hole. i'll shoot them a call to see if they can do it on the spot hopefully. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeyjones 88 Posted August 22, 2013 Yeah good luck with that. I used to do eveything myself but don't have the space for a drill press anymore. If you do, it's fairly simple to do yourself. You don't actually need to weld it closed. You can use epoxy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisfc923 14 Posted August 22, 2013 yeah? from what i've been hearing I needed to at least spot weld the comp and have it be visible. Sucks living in this state Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeyjones 88 Posted August 22, 2013 yeah? from what i've been hearing I needed to at least spot weld the comp and have it be visible. Sucks living in this state Very vague definitions in this state but the generally accepted guidelines are from the federal awb. As long as it's not removable by hand tools, from my understanding. I used to put a machine screw in the hole and epoxy it closed. It wouldn't budge. Some people use wire hanger, I personally wouldn't. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NYMetsFan86 9 Posted August 22, 2013 not trying to jack your thread but...can you blind pin and the silver solder over the pin instead of tac weld,or is that pure silliness? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeyjones 88 Posted August 22, 2013 not trying to jack your thread but...can you blind pin and the silver solder over the pin instead of tac weld,or is that pure silliness? To me that seems fine but I'm not a lawyer nor do I work for njsp. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NYMetsFan86 9 Posted August 22, 2013 makes sense. So far i have one succesful silver solder job and one botched. i'd love to just pin and weld my next, time to call my friend who welds cuz i sure dont Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alowerlevel 77 Posted August 23, 2013 Very vague definitions in this state but the generally accepted guidelines are from the federal awb. As long as it's not removable by hand tools, from my understanding. I used to put a machine screw in the hole and epoxy it closed. It wouldn't budge. Some people use wire hanger, I personally wouldn't. Negative, the only accepted ways by the BATFE are welding, 1100 deg silver solder, or pinned and welded over. From page 6 http://www.atf.gov/files/publications/download/p/atf-p-5320-8/atf-p-5320-8.pdf From BATFE NFA Handbook The ATF procedure for measuring barrel length is to measure from the closed bolt (or breech-face) to the furthermost end of the barrel or permanently attached muzzle device. Permanent methods of attachment include full-fusion gas or electric steel-seam welding, high-temperature (1100°F) silver soldering, or blind pinning with the pin head welded over. Barrels are measured by inserting a dowel rod into the barrel until the rod stops against the bolt or breech-face. The rod is then marked at the furthermost end of the barrel or permanently attached muzzle device, withdrawn from the barrel, and measured. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vmastro87 0 Posted August 23, 2013 Anyone know a good shop that can do this on the spot in CNJ? Seems a lot of shops I've called treated this like the black plague and wanted nothing to do with it. One even tried to lecture me on how I shouldn't even be doing this in NJ, blah blah blah. if you live near jackson i can do it for you i have to do a friends anyway next week ps for free Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisfc923 14 Posted August 24, 2013 if you live near jackson i can do it for you i have to do a friends anyway next week ps for free i'm not far from jackson... what day next week? I'll shoot you a PM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NJKen 23 Posted August 31, 2013 I driller, pinned, and mig welded mine myself. If you take the upper and seprate it from the lower you can safely transport it to a local welder and have him do it. Its not that hard of a job. The requirement as far as I can understand the law is that the muzzle device should break off before it unthreads. A weld is considered non reversible. I am not a fan of silver soldereing on a barrel. It puts a LOT of heat into the area and too much heat can do bad things to the strength of steel. Ken Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carl_g 568 Posted September 2, 2013 A set screw and jb weld is never coming out without tools. I don't undersatnd why this is not acceptable. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RUTGERS95 890 Posted September 3, 2013 Negative, the only accepted ways by the BATFE are welding, 1100 deg silver solder, or pinned and welded over. From page 6 http://www.atf.gov/files/publications/download/p/atf-p-5320-8/atf-p-5320-8.pdf I believe a pin or weld is acceptable in nj Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carl_g 568 Posted September 3, 2013 The problem is there is nothing that I have been able to find either in AG guidlines, NJSP or NJAC 13:54-1.2 People use the old expired atf assault weapons ban as a reference. Someone please share that info if its available. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NYMetsFan86 9 Posted September 3, 2013 Iim leaving mine blind pinned, silver soldered inside the hole, and then epoxied over the solder inside the hole. No turning back after that i guess.....whats done is done, i don't know how to weld and the only person i knew with one has moved. if i build anymore uppers im buying a friggin mig welder from harbor freight or somthing because the laws are so roundabout sketchy that there is no way of knowing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeyjones 88 Posted September 3, 2013 You won't wanna use a hf mig welder on a nice ar upper. Your results will be inconsistent at best and warp the barrel at worst. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NYMetsFan86 9 Posted September 3, 2013 You won't wanna use a hf mig welder on a nice ar upper. Your results will be inconsistent at best and warp the barrel at worst. scratch that idea.....dammit. ...fantastic options we have arn't they. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NJKen 23 Posted September 3, 2013 You won't wanna use a hf mig welder on a nice ar upper. Your results will be inconsistent at best and warp the barrel at worst. This is not true if you know how to weld. One of the nice things about mig is that you can control the heat easily. You can easily weld sheet metal with a mig welder and that warps really easily if your not careful. If your not an experianced welder I do not recomend that you try this. Most welding shops will pin and weld a brake if you take them the barrel. Its typically a $30 job if you have a good guy that will just slip it in when he has a minute. Ken Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeyjones 88 Posted September 3, 2013 This is not true if you know how to weld. One of the nice things about mig is that you can control the heat easily. You can easily weld sheet metal with a mig welder and that warps really easily if your not careful. If your not an experianced welder I do not recomend that you try this. Most welding shops will pin and weld a brake if you take them the barrel. Its typically a $30 job if you have a good guy that will just slip it in when he has a minute. Ken I agree with you, just not about being able to do it with a HF mig welder. Have you ever tried using a HF mig welder? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NJKen 23 Posted September 3, 2013 This is not true if you know how to weld. One of the nice things about mig is that you can control the heat easily. You can easily weld sheet metal with a mig welder and that warps really easily if your not careful. If your not an experianced welder I do not recomend that you try this. Most welding shops will pin and weld a brake if you take them the barrel. Its typically a $30 job if you have a good guy that will just slip it in when he has a minute. Also, you have to use solid wire and shielding gas ArCo2 mix. I would not try it with a flux cored setup. Ken Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carl_g 568 Posted September 3, 2013 What about an old fashioned arc welder? Do most use Tig? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeyjones 88 Posted September 4, 2013 What about an old fashioned arc welder? Do most use Tig? TIG would be ideal although an arc welder would probably do it as well, just to hold the set screw in. A mig with argon gas would be fine as well. I was just making the point that the HF flux core wire mig setup will NOT get the job done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NYMetsFan86 9 Posted September 4, 2013 I wonder if I could get a compliance work dealer list together similar to the FFL cheat sheet. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carguy3j 0 Posted September 4, 2013 TIG would be ideal although an arc welder would probably do it as well, just to hold the set screw in. A mig with argon gas would be fine as well. I was just making the point that the HF flux core wire mig setup will NOT get the job done. Well, that depends. A cheap welder, w/flux core wire most likely won't make a strong weld. But, as long as it is secured to the barrel via set screws or some other method, then the flux wire could make a "booger" that "looks" good, and appears to be welded to anybody who might look. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane45 807 Posted September 4, 2013 Yes....you can probably run it in to a welding shop for a weld or try it yourself etc etc. BUT the number of butcher jobs I get in to fix would indicate to me that you take a healthy risk in proceeding down that path. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alowerlevel 77 Posted September 4, 2013 People use the old expired atf assault weapons ban as a reference. Someone please share that info if its available. The links I referenced are not from the old federal AWB. That is right out of the current NFA handbook from the ATF on acceptable ways to permanantly attach a muzzle device. There is no NJ specific info out there which is why we tend to follow the ATFs ways of permanantly attached devices. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites