Jump to content
302w

Buffer/Buffer spring for 18" Midlength

Recommended Posts

My dad is building an AR, and I have no idea on what buffer he should be using. Right now he has an 18" midlength .223 Wylde barrel, and a M16A1 buffer from Sarco. Is this "right"? Is there anything that would be more reliable, and if so, why? 

 

I believe that gas system length and buffer weight need to correlate somehow, but I don't know for sure. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The barrel on my rifle is the same, 18" Wylde middy.  I used an A2 buffer tube and A2 buffer with an ARFX Skeleton stock.  Works good.  The length of the tube, weight of the buffer, length and tension of the spring will all affect the timing.  Basically, all the parts I used (except for the stock)  are the same for an M16 with a rifle length gas system so my set up on a mid length gas system cycles a little bit faster.  I don't have time to go into the technical details this morning but google is your friend. Others will surely chime in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There are basically two types of lower buffer systems for the AR platform, rifle length or carbine length.  These systems on the lower are independent of the upper used on the lower.  They are designed to be interchangeable with the uppers.  Now that said, some people prefer to tweak their operation of the rifle by using buffers of different weights to adjust the cycle speed of the bolt carrier, based on round charge, gas system on the upper, and bolt carrier.  This is done on carbine style lowers.  Rule of thumb is to use a buffer in the carbine buffer system that just allows the bolt carrier to cycle.  Making them the smoothest cycling combination possible.  If the lower has a carbine buffer system then increasing or decreasing buffer weight helps to get to this nirvana.  Carbine buffer weights are as follows.

Carbine 3.0 oz

H or H1 3.8 oz

H2         4.7 oz

H3         5.6 oz

Which one to use will depend on the factors listed above.  History dictates to start with a H or H1 and move up or down as desired.  If we are talking about 55/62  bullet weights with a mid length gas system and a m16 type bolt carrier then I would start with a H or H1 buffer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can tune either rifle or carbine systems equally well. 

 

Short version though: Any upper can go on any lower. You can use a short carbine type upper with a rifle length recoil systems and you can use a 20" rifle type upper on a carbine type lower. 

 

Don't start messing with buffer weights unless you have any issues with function, or if you want to make it smoother once it already functions. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good replies, so far.

 

Just to add, the difference with the carbine length is that the bcg gets thrown back faster/harder due to the shorter gas port location.  If the bcg is slamming on recoil, that is the reason you add buffer weight.  

 

Basically, you want as little bcg action possible with the gun still reliably cycling.  The rifle length is the softest shooting length.  The mid is, well, between the rifle and carbine.  If the gun can cycle reliably, then stick with the rifle/A2 buffer.

 

Anyway, I run an 18" mid length barrel with a rifle A2 stock/ buffer.  I have no cycling issues.  

 

Also, be sure to run your bcg wet.  Lube it well.

 

 

Eric

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.



  • olight.jpg

    Use Promo Code "NJGF10" for 10% Off Regular Items

  • Supporting Vendors

  • Latest Topics

  • Posts

    • We never let then inside.  Last re-evaluation was 6-7 years ago, wife politely told him that he was welcome to look around the property and he could look in the windows. He saw two white resin chairs in the basement and told her that this constituted a finished basement. And everything in the basement is bare concrete/ cinder block, and mechanical systems. Nothing finished about it. Ultimately he relented and I'm sure that was a ploy to coerce us to allow him in
    • I use an Alien Gear cloak tuck (IWB) with my Shield.  Neoprene back - in the summer it does feel warm but doesn't rub or chafe.   https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-iwb-holster.html Could also go with the shapeshift as it has multiple options - OWB/IWB, Appendix... https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-shapeshift-modular-holster-system.html
    • The  12-1 compression ratio L88 is long gone. This is GM's updated version. it might be  pump gas 10-1 engine The L88 was a aluminum head  cast iron block engine with a nasty solid lifter cam. the  ZL1 was a all aluminum  12 or 13-1 compression ratio engine with the best forged internal parts at the time and had a even nastier solid lifter cam 
    • I like my regular carry holster.  OWB leather with belt slots.  I've been carrying for over a year and it was comfortable and I hardly even noticed it.  I carry (usually) a Ruger LCP .380 - light, convenient, tiny. But...today I ended up taking it off an leaving it home after a few hours. I cut down a big maple tree a few days ago and I spent 3/4 of today loading and unloading firewood into the back of my truck and a trailer.  It was a warm day, I was dirty, tired, sweaty, and my holster was rubbing against my side.  The leather and exposed metal snap was no longer comfortable. I'm thinking about adding a layer of something to that part of the holster to soften the contact.  Anything insulating will make it worse.  I don't want a sweaty, hotter holster against my skin.  I'm imagining something thin, breathable, that won't absorb sweat, and softer than leather, metal snaps, and rivets.   But I have no idea what would work. I'm hoping somebody else has already figured this out and I can just do what they did. Any suggestions appreciated.
    • Check the primers on the ammo you didn't shoot yet. Are they fully seated? If the primer is not just below flush with the back of the case, the first hit can seat it better then the second hit ignites it. 
×
×
  • Create New...