Jump to content
TheEqualizer686P

New owner of a S+W 686P - used it for the first time tonight

Recommended Posts

Went to pick mine up on Friday...NICS was experiencing an Obama Christmas rush. After 90 minutes I finished the paperwork and left. Was surprised that the trigger did not seem as smooth as on my GP100 or SP101. Or maybe my arthritis just got worse.

 

I've read about fixing the sights in this thread. Does anyone have any suggestions for trigger work that would NOT reduce the pull? Does such a thing exist? Is it do-able by someone with very little experience? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Went to pick mine up on Friday...NICS was experiencing an Obama Christmas rush. After 90 minutes I finished the paperwork and left. Was surprised that the trigger did not seem as smooth as on my GP100 or SP101. Or maybe my arthritis just got worse.

 

I've read about fixing the sights in this thread. Does anyone have any suggestions for trigger work that would NOT reduce the pull? Does such a thing exist? Is it do-able by someone with very little experience?

 

I have had mine for a few weeks and after a lot of dry firing and a few trips to the range the trigger pull does smooth out a bit. I remember it being not as smooth before wanting to get a trigger job on it but not wanting to put more money into the piece.

 

Was told that I could make the trigger pull smoother by doing it myself but I am not brave enough to attempt on my own, yet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Follow up: Haven't shot the gun yet but this piece is not up to S&W quality. Everything is rough: trigger set, SA pull, cylinder release, even the ejector. When dry fired sounds like someone banging on a tin can.

 

Question: should every chamber in a new revolver have an obvious black powder mark going around the circumference? Almost looks like someone shot a bunch of .38s through this. I don't remember seeing these when my other revolvers were new.

 

Now I wish I'd bought another GP100, in snub. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Test firing is usually every other cylinder in a six shot gun. I don't know what the procedure is for the 7 and 8 shot models.

 

You need to remove the sideplate - do NOT pry it off, if you don't know how to do it, check out You Tube, I'm sure there will be many videos showing the correct procedure. Use Gun Scrubber or similar and blast the innards to remove any machining particles. Lubricate pivot points sparingly. Do not pull the trigger with the side plate off. That should help get rid of the grittiness. Now get some snap caps and dry fire the snot out of it. Should be GTG.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.



  • olight.jpg

    Use Promo Code "NJGF10" for 10% Off Regular Items

  • Supporting Vendors

  • Latest Topics

  • Posts

    • We never let then inside.  Last re-evaluation was 6-7 years ago, wife politely told him that he was welcome to look around the property and he could look in the windows. He saw two white resin chairs in the basement and told her that this constituted a finished basement. And everything in the basement is bare concrete/ cinder block, and mechanical systems. Nothing finished about it. Ultimately he relented and I'm sure that was a ploy to coerce us to allow him in
    • I use an Alien Gear cloak tuck (IWB) with my Shield.  Neoprene back - in the summer it does feel warm but doesn't rub or chafe.   https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-iwb-holster.html Could also go with the shapeshift as it has multiple options - OWB/IWB, Appendix... https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-shapeshift-modular-holster-system.html
    • The  12-1 compression ratio L88 is long gone. This is GM's updated version. it might be  pump gas 10-1 engine The L88 was a aluminum head  cast iron block engine with a nasty solid lifter cam. the  ZL1 was a all aluminum  12 or 13-1 compression ratio engine with the best forged internal parts at the time and had a even nastier solid lifter cam 
    • I like my regular carry holster.  OWB leather with belt slots.  I've been carrying for over a year and it was comfortable and I hardly even noticed it.  I carry (usually) a Ruger LCP .380 - light, convenient, tiny. But...today I ended up taking it off an leaving it home after a few hours. I cut down a big maple tree a few days ago and I spent 3/4 of today loading and unloading firewood into the back of my truck and a trailer.  It was a warm day, I was dirty, tired, sweaty, and my holster was rubbing against my side.  The leather and exposed metal snap was no longer comfortable. I'm thinking about adding a layer of something to that part of the holster to soften the contact.  Anything insulating will make it worse.  I don't want a sweaty, hotter holster against my skin.  I'm imagining something thin, breathable, that won't absorb sweat, and softer than leather, metal snaps, and rivets.   But I have no idea what would work. I'm hoping somebody else has already figured this out and I can just do what they did. Any suggestions appreciated.
    • Check the primers on the ammo you didn't shoot yet. Are they fully seated? If the primer is not just below flush with the back of the case, the first hit can seat it better then the second hit ignites it. 
×
×
  • Create New...