raz-0

Try to be more terse man. Once again, this is a novel, and that's coming form a guy who posts novels. Except yours have pages of text with minimal info. Like this.. I don't care about your opinions about yourself. I assume you think you are awesome and right and we can skip that as understood. It could have been summed up with "I already replied on page in case you missed it". There you go.. all the useful bits of your post in a sentence fragment. If you want to convey being salty "I already posted it on page one, are you fucking blind". Both substantially shorter than what you wrote. It's web forum, not a frikin thesis or management consultation document where you are being graded/paid by the pound. On to constructive stuff. So Optimum is using a modified version of zimbra. It 100% will route stuff to your junk folder without you dragging it there. When you drag it there, it treats it as if you clicked the "this is junk" option and uses it to train filters. So question 1 is if you are viewing mail via their webmail interface, you should be seeing stuff in junk unless they have gotten REALLY aggressive at spam rejection. I left optimum's email services for a reason. They weren't good. If you are using a desktop/mobile client, the Junk folder may be local and not the one optimum is using. If you have not looked at it via the web interface, try that. But your mail client may use it's own junk folder where only stuff yo mark as junk or is determined to be junk by the local client is put. This is not terribly uncommon. If running a samsung mobile device, especially and older one, it comes with it's own spam filters, and moves "spam" to deleted items, not junk/spam. It can be pretty aggressive and wrong about this. Newer devices seem to be less bad, so they may have finally fixed the default behavior. If all that is no help, my next advice would be to stop talking to GB for the moment, go spin up an outlook.com or Gmail account, and just try registering with that. You may be SOL depending on how much data they keep of the incomplete form as I just tried to run through the process to create a bogus test account, and they put in controls to avoid duping accounts. GB isn't trying to go above and beyond the law or infringe your rights, they are just trying to prevent mail fraud being committed with your identity. It is possible your experience is shit because someone already tried to pretend to be you. The fact your info is easily found online doesn't mean you must be you, it means pretending to be you is just that much easier.

I hope they switch as fast as posssible. Then the gun grabbers will have to come up with something other than pretending ar-15s are weapons of war with the most powerful cartridges in the world.

It can be no later than end of June. It will be the end of June because gun cases are always at the end of June. This is because they are contentious. It’s the scotus version of a Friday afternoon press release. They drop it on the last day at the last minute and go on vacation so they don’t have to listen to anyone until shit settles down.

Ok. So they aren’t making that request because they need the info, but because you appear to be some Internet rando who is trying to associate their gunbroker account with an email account they don’t actually have access to as far as the support person is concerned. The picture holding a a photo id is just the lowest effort way of verifying identity. So the first question is did you check your spam/junk folder for the activation email? Because that’s your path to avoiding this stuff. Also who is your email provider? They may be giant assholes blocking gunbroker.

It’sa bunch of bullshit posing to rally the base.

They can't in the NY decision. It's already been heard. The delay is 100% standard as they do their hearings, wait forever, and then issue the decisions at the end of june before their recess for the bulk of decisions.

No idea if they are a legit storefront, but FYI on ginex primers. This particualr small rifle is 0.0197" primer cup thickness (0.5mm) according tot heir spec sheet. SO similar to federal 200 and remington 6 1/2, but the spec sheet does say it was tested in .223 rem. PRIMER 4,5/3-I is one of their 5.56 primers and is 3.22mm high which may not fit in your brass. PRIMER 4,5/3-N is their other 5.56 primer, and is 3.12mm high which is about in the middle of the range for what you typically get with federal, cci, winchester, etc. You can look up the specs here https://www.ginex.com.ba/Product.htm

For sitting at a port and shooting? Grip strength and some additional forearm work that won't be caught just by typical grip trainers. Most of the rest of the upper body stuff in form and managing recoil is primary skeletal. Unless you are not very strong, and then some trapezius strength will help with holding a gun up for longer without fatigue. For run and gun? Grip, legs, and core. For 3 gun stick some basic aerobic proficiency at the top of the list. Long range stuff will punish you for not keeping your heart rate down to something reasonable. For legs you need to be able to launch yourself from a start pretty well and I've seen plyometrics recommended for this, but haven't tried them. You also need to be able to change direction, which needs some strength, but also technique. Learning how to do a skip step and various styles of skip step can help a lot here. Core ties your upper body into the above leg stuff to up the power and really comes into developing a stable base, especially while pivoting the upper body. Technique things for stability are being able to hold a half squat and an Asian squat. Also practicing position transition positions. Standing to prone to standing standing to urban/side prone to standing. Standing to brokeback prone to standing. Standing to half squat to standing, Standing to asian squat to standing. Standing to single leg kneel to standing. You can also do from all the squats to all the prone positions.

What bullet are you looking for? A lot of places have been getting caught up for the common stuff.

I see them coming into stock more often than in the last year. The problem is that lots of people who got hosed by the panic buying have decided to get into reloading and tons of reloaders who bought a thousand here and there and didn't shoot volume have realized they need to have inventory on hand. So there is a LOT, LOT more consumption of the product.

I’ve got serious clay, so it’s all raised boxes. All the boxes are amended with some peat moss and compost.

I have a LOT of sun in my garden, which means certain things do less well. Still trying to figure out what works best, no two years have been really consistent for most things. Grape tomatoes usually do awesome for me. Nice fruit and copious yield. Full size tomatoes are a bust in general. Most lettuce and spinach does well, but for a pretty short season, I need to mess with trying them as a fall crop. Peppers in general do well, hot peppers do really well. All the herbs seem to do well. Sage will try to overrun the place, oregano, basil, and cilantro grow nice and moved in permanently. I barely have to do anything but water them mid summer. I can grow carrots, but I can't grow nice carrots. Potatoes were a non starter until we just skipped the seed catalog and just hacked up some sprouting ones from the supermarket. Same with garlic and onion. The absolute most awesome thing I got out of my garden was the sole survivor cantaloupe. If they touch anything they seem to rot, but damn it was so much better than what the store sells. Strawberries didn't do too well until they went wild in the garden between beds. I have a mongo blackberry bush that makes giant ass blackberries. Zucchini, squash, and cucumbers used to be nice, but they just keep dying to one problem or another the last few years.

I paid $450 for my p320 x-5 legion setup. A g34 kit is $520 with a bottle and $490 without currently. midway discounts the g17 equivalent. How close do you want your training gear to be to the real thing? Is $87 a big enough delta to warrant a difference?

So that is a conversion kit for an airsoft pistol? It's basically the same price as a coolfire trainer, which means you get to practice with your actual pistol. Seems like an odd choice for a personal purchase. It makes more sense if you wanted to set up a simulator range or something.

That is not about the case feeder as far as I can tell. That's about the brass vs the shell plate. Polishing the opening of the shell plate reduces it greatly, but some brass still doesn't want to go all the way in easily. The really bad one probably shouldn't be reloaded because the case head expanded more than most. Some of the others I'm still trying to figure out. I have an idea as to what is going on, but I have to test it. I've got mine to the point it doesn't happen too much and I catch it before it becomes a problem. No idea if the dillon people have similar issues.

TLDR advice to Golf Battery. Realistically, just video yourself loading some rounds on the Hornady and time your bursts of smooth reloading to get your seconds per round. Get an average, and do the math. Short of automating a 1050, you probably won't go faster than that on any press, and most of these overblown claims are not what people are actually doing in an hour, but their max cyclic rate extrapolated. Realistically, the question is what is needing TLC on the hornady, and with team blue would you be doing 500 rph without any drama? I have a couple of LNL-AP presses and friends with SDBs, 500s, and 650s. So first, I have to say that I generally agree that the LNL takes more TLC to keep running based on anecdotal evidence. But from my experience, the indexing isn't the part that needs much TLC. One of my presses has about 125k rounds on it, and I have had to adjust indexing on it all of three times. Once was preemptory after tearing my setup down and packing it for moving and not even based on actual bad behavior. There's probably something you can do about that. Second, which dillon do you have? Because the only thing I hear people bitch about regularly is the primer system on the 650. That is one of the big changes to the 750. It moves to a more LNL like sled setup, but with the dillon adjustable primer seating stem/ram. (their approach to the seating stem is a win, the 650s primer merry-go-round is not, I don't know anyone who has a 750, but it looks like it should be a nice priming system). The Dillon case feeder hopper is definitely better than the Hornady. The dillon's clear plastic faceplate that catches the falling shell is a better, less cheap design. That and the fact that you can adjust the speed makes it suck much less. It can still have a case hang up like the LNL, but not nearly as often. if you don't make modifications to the hornady setup, you also get pieces of brass occasionally raining on your head, which I don't recall being an issue for dillon. It's easily stopped with non permanent mods, but there's not really a fix for the collator binding on a case (this is what variable speed would help with), or cases binding in the faceplate/funnel thing in a way that doesn't trip the switch (this is what a better designed faceplate helps with). I've generally got mine beaten into submission and just have to reach up and free the occasional binding case in the collator and have to adjust the tension on the pivot screw for the case dropping bit. As far as I am concerned, their instructions are questionable and their suggestions about which pieces to combine for a given caliber are very wrong. The main thing that was super, super screwed up is how the pivoting case drop is mounted to the arm that holds the case feeder. If you have an old one it is just sort of wedged on a nut. I fixed mine wit a piece of angle iron and a bit of shimming. Hornady now has changed things up to have a bracket to hold it in place. It's a stupid design. Dillon owners don't have to do this shit. Stupid original design is on top, my fix is in the middle, Hornady's is on the bottom. Take the rate's quoted by people on the internet with a grain of salt the size of Montana. Lots of schmucks saying stuff to look impressive and are outright lying or have a bunch of caveats they aren't adding to their explanation. Even with the bragging and the OCD people with a system, and the people with zero quality control, you see a lot of people in the 400-500 range for the 550, and 400-600 range for the 657/750. The dude telling me he loads 1200rph on a SDB but then says they don't load more than 200 rounds at a time is not a useful data point. For dillon gear, the name is dillon's take on hourly throughput with a case feeder, and the reality is that most people don't get to that, especially if your metric is "I want to go make 500 rounds right now, how many minutes until I have 500 rounds boxed up". On the LNL-AP I can do just about 3 seconds a round with .40 or .45... right up until I have to grab another handful of bullets, and my QC is minimal. In my world, me claiming I can do 1200 rounds per hour because of that is total bullshit, for others it isn't cause math or something. People I know well and deal with in real life have rates around 400 rph with the 550, 600 rph with the 650, and 700 and change with the 1050. For straight walled pistol using a case feeder on the 650 and 1050. For me I can do about a round every 5 seconds with visual inspection. That'd be a cyclic rate of 750 per hour, but reality is I seldom load more than 300 at a go. My SOP when doing that is to tighten the pivot bolt on my case feeder, check the bolt on the shell plate isn't loosening, load up the primer tubes using my vibra prime, load 100, gauge them all with my armanov 100 round gauge, mark them and box them, then repeat that for the next 200 and go do something else. This takes about 35 minutes and the only work not included in that is cleaning the brass. So my fairly objective (IMO) take on red vs blue here. -blue wins on QC. IMO hornady's biggest problem is that if they get a bum part, they will ship that bum part until it is gone. Dillon fixes something so it is fixed the first time. Dillon also has less bum parts creep into the pipeline. -blue wins on CS. Hornady's CS isn't bad, but Hornady is a bigger company doing more things, and you will occasionally wind up arguing about warranty with someone who needs more training or something. -blue wins the locator pins vs the hornady spring retainer. The pins are a better design and is smoother. The spring can be made much, much more reliable. I've tried to explain how, but it really needs a video. If your spring comes undone and would like me to make a video on how to make it never do that, let me know. I've got 10 years of use on my current spring. -blue wins with 6 positions vs 5. This matters a lot more of you want a bullet feeder. This can matter a lot to top speed. - red wins the powder drop. It's always been a better poder drop in general, but for a time dillon was cheaper to get extras. Now a spare powder measure for team blue is $120, and you can catch a sale for the hornady for ~$65-70 and can get one for $95 without any work. This gets an asterisk because the dillon powder through expanders are 100%. The hornady one in .40 had issues. In theory they redesigned it, but I haven't met that one and can't vouch for it. -red wins price generally. Right now kind of sucks and it looks like about a $100 difference. This happens regularly, and at those times I'd do team blue. -blue still wins in aftermarket support, but the gap has narrowed a lot in the last 10 years. -cleanliness is a draw. The new primer system on the 750 may move this to a blue win, but with the hornady, out of the box, you can wind up slinging a wee bit of powder sometimes. With the 650, you have to clean the primer merry go round regularly. -both need roller handles added to the initial purchase price if you are going to do any kind of volume in a sitting.

They seemed to realize it, but it's not like there was a safe place to be. Waiting in his car would have been a shittier option.

Nope, many people apply for a fist full of them at regular intervals to always have valid ones on hand so they can buy what they want.

During the federal AWB the PRS and other stocks with adjustable buttpads using tools were considered fixed stocks. Ace had one IIRC. There was the clubfoot. So it should be good to go. For clarity, the AWB clubfoot needed tools to change the length. The current version is just a regular collapsible stock.

Short version: It's a specific brand of barrel designed to shoot softly and give you the soft shooting characteristics of a rifle length 18" barrel by using the not very common (and also not very much agreed upon dimensionally) intermediate length gas system to give you only slightly higher port pressure with similar dwell time to an 18". And to mitigate port pressure, they gas port size is reduced. Oh also I left out of my previous list of things, a 1:8 twist .223 wylde chambered barrel is the right thing. TLDR version. Most AR barrels have the gas port drilled to over gas the gun. This is generally more reliable in more situations with more parts, but it means you bleed off more gas and beat things up more. Additionally, the shorter the gas system, the closer the port is to the chamber, and the higher pressure you get at the gas port. The farther the gas port is from the muzzle of the barrel, the longer that gas impulse lasts. Too low a pressure and too little dwell time, and the bolt won't unlock reliably. Too much pressure and dwell time, and it'll probably work, but you shorten the life of the components and slam the carrier group and buffer around a lot. Oddly enough, and confusing for a lot of builders, being overgassed and undergassed have the exact same failure mode for different reasons. Got a little too much gas and you get FTFs because the bolt comes back faster than the magazine can shive a round up to be caught. A little too little and you get an FTF from short stroking. Way too much and you get FTEs I believe because the case is still being expanded by gas pressure when the bolt unlocks. Way too little gas and you get FTEs because the brass never clears the chamber and just gets reinserted. That's probably way too much. If you want to know more about AR gas systems, this is one of the more informative articles: http://www.ar15barrels.com/prod/operation.shtml Anyway, as 3 gun progressed two main factors made lighter guns better. 1) more popular meant more matches which meant 300+ yard shots got less common in the average shooters match season. 2) true 1x LPVOs came to dominate and you could have your cake and it eat too provided you didn't mind slapping 2lbs on top of your rifle. Because that's a lot of weight out of an 8lb budget some other things became more popular: reduced gas system with lightweight buffers and carriers, lighter barrels, and lighter forearms. Mostly because you can retain a lot of the functionality while losing a lot of weight compared to other things. 18" barrels with rifle length gas systems became popular because you could slap most any 20" barrel in a lathe, cut and re-crown it, and it'd work. Even though a 16" barrel will get the job done very similarly to an 18" at the ranges you will encounter in most matches, it won't work with rifle length gas unless you get very specific about port size, ammo, ambient temp, etc. So after a while, it became pretty accepted that for an 18" barrel, a 3gun profile would give you the best combo of weight an accuracy. That's basically a 0.75" profile back to the chamber area except for the gas block flange. Stretch precision ran with this profile, chopped it to 16" then made the gas system as long as they could without opening up the port too much, and then gave it some minimal fluting. And you have a soft shooting 28oz barrel. It's closest competitor is probably the ballistic advantage 17.7" hanson profile at 31 ounces, the ar15perfromance scout at 28oz, the faxon flame fluted 16" match series barrel at 28oz, the 16 " faxon gunner at 21.28oz, the 18" faxon gunner at 24.62oz, oding works also has similar gunner-like 16" as well as a 31oz 3gun profile at 31oz. (There are lighter pencil barrels, but they tend to be more whippy and drift with heat soak. The gunners are pretty much at the practical limit of tolerating that in most 3 gun matches). but all of those are mid length except the 18" gunner which is rifle length but has a small gas block shoulder that means you can't use most adjustable gas blocks. The odinworks has non standard spacing to the gas hole and you need to use their block unless they got smart and made it normal. If you want lower gas pressure you and normal gas blocks, you are shooing a limited number of 18" barrels on the market. It's pretty nit-picky and pretty niche but I'm happy with mine. I don't know that I'd do it again and will probably just get a 31oz 18" when I have to replace it.

Ok, so like all things in life, it's a compromise. You want a light gun for transitions and faster handling when mounting and unmounting. You want a heavier gun for taming recoil and muzzle rise. You want a red dot for speed and 6-8x magnification for the longer stuff. You want a reliable gun, but you want to run on minimal gas for the fastest return to sight picture. You want a good trigger that you can run fast up close and accurate far away. Pick some of those and how much you hate your wallet. There's two top tier choices of rifle size and gas system: 18" barrel with a rifle length gas system or the stretch 16 with it's intermediate gas system. The 18" system is much easier to build without issues. If I hadn't mucked around building a half dozen rifles and troubleshooting friends' gear, I would have been pulling my hair out with the stretch 16. There's also a 17 inch barrel out there with a rifle length that is much like the stretch 16. I forget who makes it. The winning answer for all around use for an optic is a good 1-6 to 1-8 LPVO. I see a LOT of the vortex 1-10 scopes going back on sale shortly after being bought because they just aren't as good a fit to the needs and the price is high. For me, and I'm not alone, a total package weight of about 7-8lbs with the rifle empty and optic mounted is the sweet spot, and you want the center of mass to be about where the magwell is. I've owned and shot everything from 11.8lb rifles to a 5.5lb lightweight I built, and I'd say down around 6lbs you spend a lot more time and effort managing recoil and getting things to settle down in general. At around 10lbs I start hating AR format rifles and unless you found a REALLY heavy stock, there's really no option but to be both heavy and front heavy at that point. My current setup is a forged noveske gen3 lower with triggertech trigger, an ARFX stock, a gutted rifle buffer (about 2.8oz), a taccom reduced power buffer spring, a rubber city armory reduced mass carrier, a JP bolt, a stretch 16 barrel, venom defense viper comp (high temp solder to avoid any issues drilling might cause and fuck NJ), american defense recon X mount, trijicon accupower 1-8 FFP, and JP two piece adjustable gas block (which is there mostly because it's two piece as it needs to be run fully open), and odin works 15.5" O2 lite foreend and a rainier version 2 billet upper. If you aren't going beyond 200 yards, you can shoot a dot, even if you don't have the best vision (so long as you don't have more than a VERY mild astigmatism, then back to LPVO for you). But you can get a basic flat top with no sights, a red dot, and a decent drop in trigger and have a lot of fun at most nearby matches, then swap out stuff as you know what you want.

1) You live in new jersey, you have to have a thicker skin than this. 2) He wasn't mocking your lack of knowledge. He was congratulating you on finally realizing that the point of the laws is not to get compliance but to discourage ownership in general and specifically make it fiscally impossible for certain demographics that certain groups rely on for votes to potentially do something like take their safety into their own hands or become part of a group that tends not to vote for said certain groups.

https://shootingtargets7.com/products/st7-t-post-hooks-pair I use these t-post hangers with a pair of t-posts. I bought a roll of decommissioned fire hose for straps. It's just better behaved overall and tolerates getting shot and catching splatter better than chain. Then some carriage bolts, washers, and extra nuts as spacers so that targets hang tilted down. I also chopped down the t-post to a reasonable height. It's the most minimal setup I have come across to date, and no splinters or lead riddled wood, and they are height adjustable if a bit on the heavy side. I have been considering 3d printing an alternative to the t-post hangers that would work with conduit and just cut the conduit at an angle.

Ah furries. Where it's 99% about weird sex except for the the furry nazis and the marketing department telling everyone it's family friendly.

0 bids.. I'm shocked. Well he wanted it quiet in there.