JonF

Metalform 9mm 10 round mags for my STI Trojan run 100%. Chip McCormick 10 round 45acp mags for my Spartan V also run 100%.

Definitely get the Trojan from Dawson. For the money, it just cant be beat in terms of features, quality and reliability. The trojan is superior to the spartan in that its a ramped barrel vs a ramped frame (Better for feeding 9mm and .40 and better support for higher pressure cases), better blued vs phosphate finish, nicer machining, and better fit/finish. The spartan is still a great gun and a fantastic value if you want a lower priced workhorse shooter. I have a trojan in 9 and spartan in 45 and both run flawlessly. Kimber and Springfield, specifically with thier 9's, dont have the same reputation. Second choice is the Smith as its also an excellent gun but its priced quite a bit higher than the STI although you do get stainless steel as a feature. Seems to be only available in the pro series which means a slick gun, but at a price. Know that some of its parts are proprietary, even being a 1911 which may or may not be an issue if you're just going to leave it be (which, as a massaged pro series, you should just be able to do).

Space peanut.

Yes, but voluntarily by someone who wishes to remain anonymous. lol

What's the typical, non-rushing changeover time for the Giraud? Do you have to totally recalibrate the trim length for the caliber each time as well?

Love it. I miss my Sp1.

Awesome! Excellent starter ride.

What's cool about the G20 is that you can get a proper .40S&W barrel from Lone Wolf, then just load .40 in the 10mm mags and shoot it that way (but you may need to reload your ammo long for best feeding). The larger form factor of that frame is a little better for people with larger hands and tames the recoil of a polymer gun a bit more.This is actually a legal limited class configuration in uspsa.

One time i had an OOB ignition on a 22lr rifle when i was cupping the ejection port but that just sprayed my hand with hot particles and stung a little. Then i was fiddling with a Harris bipod off the gun and if you have one, you know its damn near impossible to operate unless its attached to something solid. I grabbed the body in one hand and started to try to swing the stubby 6" leg with my other but the webbing of my hand got into the pivot socket and as the let started to go, it just snapped into place and severed the webbing of my hand as it snapped shut with authority. That was pretty painful and pretty bloody. But not as bloody as the time i slid my finger into the running table saw... I have also witnessed some funny stuff from others. I was out with another *unnamed* member of this board at a plinking range shooting some 12ga buck and slugs at junk. He had the gun configured in the 18" barrel and pistol grip only mode and found it hard to get a good sight picture to get hits on water bottles a few yards away with slugs. So he does what anyone might and pulls the whole short assembly closer to his face so he could get a proper sight line down the barrel. Well, after letting one rip without a firm grip on the gun, a classic youtube moment occurred and the whole thing ended up pistolwhipping him in his own face and opened up his lip something fierce. All he could do is stand there leaned over with blood pouring out of his mouth and trying to dab at it with a rag. I'm still surprised it didn't take out any teeth with that hit. lol

Same here. It collects some, but never enough. And the longer you use the media, the duster it gets as it breaks down. The most dust-free product that i've tried for dry tumbling that is STILL actually an effective media is the Lyman treated corn cob granules. Coarse enough not to be dusty and fine enough to get shells perfectly clean. I dont decap pistol brass before tumbling but its still finer than a SP primer so it should clean those pockets well enough.

This is 100% true. Recently a friend and member of cumberland invited me down there to shoot the 600 yard range. I have a nice Savage in 6.5 creedmoor, but have never shot ay further than HALF that distance before. It was humbling at the very least and equally frustrating since i couldn't see any holes through the rifle scope or spotting scope. I pretty much wasted 50 rounds that day trying to dial it in and attempt to shoot anything resembling a group. I had calculated some rough holdovers but the percentage of error at that distance is pretty high and with no way to verify until you drive down to the target its fairly futile. Then when you make a correction, you pretty much have to go through all this again hoping it got you where you wanted (And not over or under compensated). It would have been nice to be able to start at say 400, then progress beyond but at that range its 600 or nothing which is very annoying. Totally sucks the fun out of shooting!

It's a pistol match that emphasizes speed from a static standing position. Target ranges are anywhere from 5 to 20 yards away. The official website: http://www.centraljerseysteel.com/about.html

My garage sits under a variety of trees from a large catalpa that drops huge leaves and pods, a run o the mill maple and a nasty acacia. For years i had to clean the gutters out bi annually and got pretty fed up. I put some simple shields i found at HD that are a plastic cover with coarse holes backed by a fine screen and that keeps both the big and little stuff out permanently. Some people complain of the water spilling over but i dont notice it as much since its a garage and the pitch is mild. May not be suitable for larger/steeper applications though. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Amerimax-Home-Products-Snap-In-Filter-White-Gutter-Guard-86270BX/100520851#.UhaH9z-9JqM

I've demo'd the rangelog.com app and found that i didn't care for it. I appreciate the wide variety of features the developer has baked into it, however, while this is its biggest advantage, its also its biggest disadvantage. Last i used it, there was no simpler way to interface with it for easy inputting of basic round count and other information. All the inputting was done via dialogs and all actions and attributes were kept separate so round count, maintenance, upgrades, cleaning, comments, photo documentation, etc were all separate steps and became quite cumbersome and tedious to log everything. If you want the utmost in detailed logging for your equipment, this is it, but i find that a simple spreadsheet is fine for basic round count tallys and cleaning/maintenance logs. But if you don't have the knowledge to create a spreadsheet, this could certainly suffice. Then there is the tinfoil hat aspect of having your entire inventory stored online somewhere with questionable security...

As does sheer weight. A bolt gun with a heavy varmint/target profile plus light to medium handloads would attenuate the recoil substantially. While you can address the same by putting a heavy profile upper on an AR, you cannot load em light and expect function.

People naturally gravitate to the AR since its the most ubiquitous platform for the .223 caliber, but also consider a .223 bolt gun. It will be vastly more versatile in that since you are a handloader, you can load the ammo to lower power levels than would reliably cycle the AR action and this would translate to even softer shooting feel in case she wasn't comfortable with factory power level ammo. You can even do this with any other bolt gun you may already have as an experiment before buying an entirely new gun. I'd suggest looking in the load books for the load that shoots a simple lead bullet to the slowest velocity and try out that recipe. One further step is to even use Trail Boss powder which can be made to shoot even softer than most of the common rifle powders and you can use it for pretty much any caliber by following thier load development procedure. You have so many more options with a bolt in this case, it should be easy to find a level she likes. I'd say to stay away from the pistol caliber guns. They may be ok from 50-100, but thier ballistics are pretty bad after that and the guns that shoot them aren't intended to be tack drivers. Although Ruger did make a nice mag-fed bolt gun in 38/357 once.

Yes. Or for modern times/multi guns: a spreadsheet. Good for logging round counts, maintenance/cleaning logs and modifications.

Russel, You are correct in some of your assumptions. To clarify, the general "single-gun" stages can be shot with either a rifle or a pistol, you simply enter the appropriate class in the morning during signup. There will often be a dedicated "multi-gun" stage, or in some cases, an entire "multi-gun" match which is shot "3-gun" style where you will need to engage select targets with only the pistol or rifle and transition on the fly. On rare occasion, there is a rifle-only match but these special matches are not common and would be announced well in advance for everyone to plan accordingly. Your typical match is a single gun match with perhaps one multi-gun stage thrown in for good measure (so its often a good idea to pack both). You never need a holster for your pistol as all stages are designed to either start low ready or with the pistol staged on a prop in some way. However, it is generally permissible to draw from a holster if the stage is designated as a low ready start since you gain no advantage (you actually are at a disadvantage) by doing so. Mag pouches are also not required as they may be always be staged on barrels/props (or pocketed), however, you may use them if the stage doesn't mandate that mags be places on said barrels/props.

That place is just a chain and nothing special compared to some good local joints. But if you just want a DWD, there is always a lady with a sabrett cart literally right across the street from that little plaza - you cant miss it! You can also swing into Red Bank and there is famous DWD cart/truck right by the railroad tracks near the Galleria.

I work in the same areadn and In the summer season, I head over to Max's hot dogs for a good foot long grilled Schickhaus.

^^^ IF he ever needs to rappel from the roof of a 3 story building, he's got enough paracord on that stock to do so. lol

No, but I do wrap the gap on the buffer tube of my pinned stocks since they are not going anywhere anytime soon.

IN.

Nice! glad to be of help.

As others said, resize *before* trimming, then your datum point (the shoulder) is a constant for all heasdstamps and the WFT will come out the same +/- a few thousandths every time. The pro's of the WFT are that its super fast and trimming in general is a LONG and TEDIOUS part of the reloading process. The downside is that once you accumulate enough calibers, all those WFT trimmers start to add up and then a hand or power trimmer that takes caliber conversions is a better option, but at the sacrifice of speed. IF you're only going to do 2 calibers, the WFT's will be fine though. To further reduce the growth and trimming scenario, X-Die, X-Die, X-Die! Did i mention X-Die? Lol Seriously, i have been using the X-Dies for my 223's (ar-15) and 30-06 (garand) and other than the initial trimming, i'm still NOT needing to trim and i have gone though 6 reloadings of the same brass batch. Its pretty awesome. COmparitively, i have to trim my 7.5 swiss and 6.5 creedmoor brass every other firing like clockwork. What a awesome timesaver. For small base, its not always necessary. I use it for the 223 brass, but not the 30-06 because my AR has a tighter chamber whereas the garand is nothing special. To TRULY know, you would need to try regular full length( non small-base) dies and if you have an issue with the cases being tight and have feeding issues, then go with small base. Of course that means buying new dies so you almost want to decide ahead of time but its really an as-needed type situation. You can make a fairly educated prediction though in that if you are shooting semi-auto and yoru chamber is some super tight match chamber, that might be a good candidate for small base. Otherwise, if its a normal chamber, its probably not necessary. The extra amount it compresses is fairly minimal so there's no harm in proactively using them if you have any doubt. RCBS even makes 223 small base X-Dies so you're in luck! For easy charging of any powder, get the lee dipper set. Seriously, nothing is faster and has the same level of accuracy than using the dippers to throw 99% of hte charge then use a trickler to dispense that last fraction of a grain, then pour it down the funnel. The cheapo lee perfect powder measure will handle the big pizza-pie flake and long cat turd extruded powders easily, but i find its % error is a little too high for near max precicsion loads (fine for low/med power plinker loads though).