RichP

Seecamp - http://www.seecamp.com/products.htm Your welcome.

The MD seems to get great enjoyment in not only running night stages, but throwing in a lot of tac-reloads, no-shoots, movement, opening doors and cover on top of the total darkness. Very good practice to really nail-down the flashlight technique that works best for you.

Sounds like you're the perfect candidate for a Sig P320.

That may be the case, but in this context, we are responding to a person that does not have the decades of experience in reloading, the requirement of hundreds of rounds of weekly practice ammo, the customized toolheads and thousands of tweaks needed to produce such accuracy. Out-of-the-box, and especially with a novice reloader, there is little doubt in my mind that single-stage presses will produce more consistent ammo. In regards to your reference to these two world-class shooters, I agree. Their progressive presses and technique are definitely capable of producing ammo that is more consistent than someone such as myself can produce using a single-stage.

Not so sure I agree with S&W here. For one, they are getting paid, since the base gun must be purchased. Therefore, S&W IS making money on gun, but it looks like they want to get a bigger cut of the modified pistol as well. If the modified gun was built from scratch to clone an M&P, then my stance would be reversed. There are literally thousands of custom gunbuilders that use factory frames, receivers and actions without removing the manufacturers logo. With the recent introductions of newly designed handguns by other top manufacturers, S&W better tread carefully in relying on their trademark and begin working more on new products.

If you're just starting out, there is absolutely zero reason to use anything but an official published load. Do not use any loads that you get from someone on the internet until you become very familiar with reloading for that caliber. As for components, I think you have already gotten recommendations on powders. Good bullets to start-off with would be Sierra Matchkings in 168 grain. For primers, start with Federals, either the regular or match should work fine for 300-600 yard shooting.

You will probably get some arguments from progressive owners with that remark, but I couldn't agree more. For doing volume reloads for action shooting or practice, they work just fine. For doing precision loads, especially when adding tasks like case trimming/deburring/etc., the single stage is king.

I have recently become intrigued with the 41 magnum.

No, you are not correct.

accuratereloading.com has a rimfire forum that has an extensive test of most 22 ammo in several rifles. It's a great resource when searching for ammo to try. Highly recommeded ammo includes: Eley Tenex Eley Match EPS Wolf Match Extra

Keep in mind, that velocity is rite at the sound barrier, so it could be a very slight change in pressure, charge, temperature, etc. that puts him supersonic.

Easiest way to remember. If your bullet hole is high, then put your crosshairs on the target and turn the dial to move your crosshair to the bullet hole (while keeping the rifle still). Keep in mind, some of the foreign scope makers do not use "up/down" references on their scopes.

You can receive directly from the gunsmith. I very recently had a handgun sent/received from the manufacturer without issue; and in the past, had several rifles sent/received. Keep in mind, you have to go to a UPS hub in order to ship, not a UPS store. Below is from my gunsmith's website:

In my experience (and I cannot say that it is done this way in every case), but regular gun store employees will simple mount the rings and scope, without any regard for lapping the rings, degreasing the screws or torquing the screws properly. Going thru those simple steps makes a difference IMHO, and I wouldn't expect someone that installs those pieces for free, or for a very small cost to go thru the trouble.

First off, do not bring it to Dick's or any other gun shop that does not have a real gunsmith (if you want it done correctly). A competent gunsmith will charge you around $50-100 to mount and boresight your scope. IMO - You are better-off purchasing the tools needed to do it yourself for a few dollars more, and you will find that you needed them for regular maintenance anyway. I use the Wheeler scope mounting kit and Tipton gun vise for all of my scope mounting, both available from MidwayUSA. Aside from scope mounting, I use the gun vise and torque screwdriver every time I disassemble the gun for cleaning; so I needed to have them anyway. Some say that you don't need to lap the rings to mount a scope, but if you have the tools, then why wouldn't you? The only downside to lapping the rings is that it takes approx. an hour to do, but you can rest assured that you have done it the right way. The video in the kit walks you thru the entire process. As for boresighting, the very best method that I have used: 1. Place a target at around 50 yards ( I use those 1.5" orange target stickers because they are easy to see). 2. Remove the bolt from your rifle and lock it down in the gun vise. 3. Maneuver the vise so that you can see the target when looking down the breech of the rifle. 4. Without moving the gun vise, adjust the crosshairs to the same target. You can do either 50 yards, or 100 yards, whichever is easier for you. Using this method, I have always been on paper @100 yds on the very first shot. http://www.chuckhawks.com/bore_sight.htm

FWIW - I would not worry about someone stealing the gun while the work was going on. It would take a pretty dumb thief to do that since the finger would inevitably be pointing at them, and the penalty for stealing a gun is pretty stiff. I would, however, be more concerned about someone coming back at a later time if they knew where it was hidden. Best bet - Either take it to a range that will store it for you, or separate the slide from the frame and hide it somewhere. You can hide the slide in your car, but not the frame.

My philosophy, let the wood develop some character from use. When I retire the gun, or before passing it down, I will make the decision whether or not to restore it. Otherwise, unless you plan on sending it away to a dedicated stockmaker, your best bet would be a fine furniture repairer/restorer, as stated above.

Your going to get many, many suggestions; and most of them will be good ones. 1. My $.02, you will not find a better made 1911 for the price than a Dan Wesson. 2. Kimber is also a very good choice, despite what you've heard.

Crossbreed Mini-Tuck

I would have to say that it is merely inaccurate chrono results. My pet load is 3.4gr of N320 under a jacketed 147gr bullet at 1.142" OAL. This, for me, results in a very accurate and soft shooting round. The powder fills the case very nicely. From a G34: 3.4 gr N320, 147 gr Zero JHP, 1.142 OAL 874 896 876 877 870 875 891 876 883 860 AVG 878 SD 10 PF 129066

Nope. From the Blackhorn website: CCI 209M are magnum primers, and "supposedly" provide the best results, according to online reviews. So that's what I got, but never compared against the Federals.

Powder: Blackhorn 209. Trust me, it's worth the price. Primers: Any Magnum 209 primer. I use CCI. Sabot: Have had good results with TC Shockwave, Hornady SST and Powerbelts. Best results came with Barnes Spit-fire T-EZ in 250 grains. This is for a TC Encore.

I was disappointed by the G43. It is just a tad too big for pocket carry, and a tad too small to shoot it comfortably often. Seems as though they tried to appeal to more people by placing it right between a pocket gun and and CC gun. I wound-up with a Shield, which (for me) was much more comfortable to shoot, handled +p and +p+ ammo better, held an extra round, and still concealed very well in an IWB holster.

To be as pleasant as they are, while being surrounded by pretty much the most anti-gun cities in the state, is a testament to their character.

You are overthinking this. It is a ballistic tip cup-and-core bullet with a thin jacket. It is made to expand rapidly/violently when hunting small animals to minimize the risk of pass-thru's/missed shots traveling a long ways. If you shoot someone center mass at close range with this bullet, there will be no trauma surgeon or suturing going on. Worst case, you can use it as practice ammo.