Jump to content

Mr.Stu

Members
  • Content Count

    1,431
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Mr.Stu

  1. It is generally not worth it for 2 reasons. Pressing out a live primer carries a risk that it will ignite - got a great thing to be doing when you're standing right there and could damage your decapping tool. Once it has been seated the anvil is compressed into the cup. Pressing it out and reseating it in another case may cause the anvil to shift and result in a failure when you try to fire it.
  2. Mr.Stu

    +P+ 9mm

    Nobody with any sense will tell you that you'll be fine running +P+ through just about anything, except maybe a Thompson Contender. For any given cartridge, SAAMI have specs for standard pressure and an second set of specs for +P pressure. The owners manual should tell you if +P is OK to use. If it doesn't say it is OK, assume that it is not. +P+ means in excess of +P specs. There is no upper limit on +P+ so no manufacturer is going to say their gun can safely shoot it as they would be saying the gun can handle any pressure up to infinity. From the 92FS manual on the Beretta website (emphasis added):
  3. You need to fill out 2 copies of the Certificate of Eligibility and that's it. No need to use an FFL for transfers between immediate family members. https://www.njsp.org/firearms/pdf/sp-634_20180914.pdf
  4. I have a Vortex Spitfire AR for the same reason - I have astigmatism on both eyes. It's OK, but it chews though the AAA battery whether you use it or not. The field of view isn't great either and the brightness is lacking too. In the last year I have invested in a Vortex AMG UH-1 Gen II and I love it. It is a true holographic sight, very similar to an Eotech. I don't get any smear with it at all and the brightness and FoV is way better than the Spitfire.
  5. To neutralize the primer drop some oil into the case. It will seep through the hole and make the primer inert. Alternatively, you can put the empty primed case in a gun and fire just the primer. I would do that outdoors as there are some heavy metals in the primer that you don't want to have floating around in your basement. How dented are the cases? Got any pics?
  6. It is currently uncertain whether they are legal or not. ATF says no, Rarebreed says yes. As for their actual practicality, I know a few folks that have them and they seem to get a lot of grins from using them. I am yet to be convinced of their usefulness other than being able to turn money into noise at a higher rate than a regular semi-auto trigger. There was an interesting challenge I saw where a group were trying to fire a single round and just couldn't do it.
  7. It depends on what you want to achieve and the type of property you are trying to protect. I have a single family home with my own driveway which connects to the street on the right hand side of my property. The front of the house is covered by 2 Ring floodlight cameras which are able to cover from beyond the edge of my driveway on the right, all the way up my steps to my front door on the left. I do not need a Ring doorbell as the front door is covered by the floodlight cameras. As for the many types, pay attention to how they are powered. Some are designed to be hardwired to a light box on the outside of the house. Others are solar or battery powered. They also have one that is powered from an outlet, but I don't think that one is weatherproof.
  8. With respect to clearing malfunctions subconsciously, I was at a USPSA style match this weekend and found my G35 acting up - I suspect I have worm out the recoil spring - but it was failing to feed the top round from a full magazine. In this video I suffer 2 of these and you can see I could detect the malf just from the difference in feel of the recoil and immediately racked the slide to clear it without having to look to diagnose the failure. Another thing to note is that I threw a shot outside the A-zone on the 3rd target - It wasn't a miss, just not an A. This was a timed match so I was in speed mode, but was able to process the sub-optimal hit while engaging target #4 and went back to target #3 to make up the missed A-zone hit with almost no delay or change in cadence. https://www.dropbox.com/s/79mo37f0po6zocp/2021_1113_135010_034A.MOV?dl=0
  9. This is an article I wrote a while ago for CNJFO. I thought it would be apropos to this thread. TL:DR - train and practice before you need the skills Thoughts on learning to defend yourself with a firearm. Following a recent post on Facebook (which the powers that be decided to shut down) I was asked if the reply I posted to that post could be used in a CNJFO article. I offered to expand on what I posted and here it is. The post raised the question of whether the discussion of the fine detail of when/where/what deadly force could be used in self defense was worth the time being spent on it. It is fair to assume many of the newer members of the firearm owning community (and many of the more established members, most likely) have not taken the time to develop the skills to effectively deliver the deadly force being discussed making the discussion largely moot. Firing the legally perfect shot and missing does nobody any good at all. A key aspect is that you are completely familiar with your chosen tool (whatever firearm you deem to be appropriate to your situation) so that you will carry out any manipulations without having to think about it. If you're experiencing a break in you have a boat load of things to process through your OODA loop. If you must delay the completion of that thought process to figure out how to operate your gun, you are at a huge disadvantage. You are already in a reactive mode, not proactive so you are starting on the back foot. You have the opportunity to remove one of the obstacles to a successful outcome by taking the time to train and practice with your firearm in advance. Let’s break that paragraph down a little. What is an OODA loop? An Air Force Colonel named John Boyd came up with the concept to describe the mental work you must do to react in a tactical situation. OODA is an acronym – Observe, Orient, Decide, Act. 1. Observe: You must first observe the thing you need to react to – obvious right? You cannot react to something that you do not know about. 2. Orient: This perhaps less obvious. You must orient the observed object or action in your understanding of the world around you. Seeing a man with a large knife in a Hibachi restaurant is perhaps no big deal. The picture changes somewhat if you are in the launderette. 3. Decide: Having digested the information from the previous two steps you need to decide what, if anything, you are going to do. Yes, deciding to do nothing is still a decision. No decision can be catastrophic. 4. Act: Carry out the thing you have decided to do. In a dynamic environment you must constantly re-evaluate the changing situation, so you are running through your OODA loop over and over again. Col. Boyd said that to win your fight you need to complete your OODA loop before the enemy can complete theirs. You can interrupt your opponent’s OODA loop by taking some action, the more unpredictable the better. Similarly, they can disrupt your loop too and make you start over. The human brain can only consciously think one thought at a time. With enough familiarity we can learn to carry out tasks subconsciously. We gain that familiarity through practice. Subconscious activity is always quicker than conscious activity. You instinctively act much faster than you can consciously act. Completion of the OODA loop is the action. If it takes a long time to complete the action, there is a good chance your opponent will complete their action (and their whole OODA loop with it) before you and you just lost that step in the fight. Now you must start over again and you opponent still has the initiative. For this discussion, let’s assume the decision was that you need to fire a shot at your opponent. You need to become so familiar with your firearm that operating it does not significantly delay completing the last step in your loop and delivering that shot where it needs to be. There are four stages of competence that you can progress through when gaining a practical skill and these have a huge impact on the outcome. These are: 1. Unconscious Incompetence: This is where every new shooter starts. They have no idea what they need to do and have no ability to do it. Most people move to the next stage very quickly. 2. Conscious Incompetence: You have gained some knowledge and you have a reasonable idea of what you need to do, but you have yet to develop the skills to achieve the desired result. The good news is that if you give yourself enough time to observe yourself while shooting, you can gain the skills you need by correcting your actions as you go through the repetitions of practice. (i.e. Don’t rush your shots in practice. Only go as fast as you can think). You know the fundamentals of how to place your shots, you are just not very good at doing them consistently. 3. Conscious Competence: You have practiced enough to be able to carry out all the actions needed to place a shot where you need it to be when you concentrate on what you are doing. You have to think about one or more of the fundamentals to be able to pull off consistent hits, but you are making your hits. 4. Unconscious Competence: This is the goal. You can now place a shot where you need it to be without having to think about how to do it. The firearm is now an extension of yourself and placing the shot just happens after you have made your decision. Getting to unconscious competence is how you optimize the last step in your OODA loop. You cannot do it during the fight. You must prepare before the fight begins – that is now. Progressing from stage 1 to 2, and 2 to 3 is usually most quickly achieved by engaging a competent instructor. They can instill the knowledge you need to understand what you are trying to do and spot mistakes that you are making. A good instructor will train you on the areas you need to work on. However, only you can put in the work to gain the skills. That means investing time on the static range to practice. It needs to be productive practice, however. There is little to be gained and much to be lost by repeating the actions when you are fatigued. You will make more mistakes and your subconscious mind will learn those mistakes. Try to limit practice sessions to no more than an hour at a time. If your range session is just not coming together on a particular day pack it up. Do not practice poor performance. Note the difference between training and practice. Training from a good instructor is expensive (plus the cost of ammo). Practice is where you repeat the things taught by the instructor (it still costs ammo, but you are not paying the instructor for his time). Only by practicing will you make the firearm manipulations subconscious, making them much faster and freeing your conscious mind to process the change to the threat in front of you. There are also dryfire practice exercises which your instructor can teach you which will build skills without any cost apart from your time. When you have reached conscious competence in simple marksmanship (you can hit a static target while standing still) it is time to add in some dynamic aspects. The simple truth is that an aggressor is not going to stand still while you shoot at them, and if you have any survival instincts, you will not stand still either. Moving and shooting is going to be necessary and will disrupt your ability to use the skills you have built so far. This would be a good time to seek out a good instructor who can help you learn what you need to do in a dynamic situation. Again, there is a difference between instruction and practice. You still need to invest time to build the skills. Also consider that guns are mechanical devices and sometimes fail to operate as intended. Clearing malfunctions and getting back in the fight is also a set of skills that can be learned to the point of unconscious competence. Inexpensive practice for dynamic shooting can be had by going to an IDPA, USPSA, ICORE and/or 3-gun match. You will get to move, shoot, use your holster and have to reload under pressure which most ranges do not allow during regular shooting. The dynamic nature of these competitions will also increase the likelihood of encountering unexpected malfunctions which you will need to clear while still “on the clock.” Achieving unconscious competence while moving and shooting at a moving target frees the conscious mind to work on the OOD part of OODA giving you a tactical advantage. The best news in all of this is that practicing these skills is enormous fun! (and it might just save your life) Final thought: No matter where you are in your skill development, if your life is on the line you must try anything in your power to survive the event. Don’t be reckless, but don’t think for a moment I am saying that until you have become superbly skilled you must give up. Learning these skills improves your chance of being victorious – nothing guarantees it. May luck be on your side.
  10. Mr.Stu

    Mossberg 930

    Did you clean and lube the gun before shooting it? If not, that may be your issue right there.
  11. My Glock 26 groups just as well at 25 yards as my full sized Glocks. It is a bit more difficult to run it at that distance, but the gun is definitely up to the task.
  12. Mr.Stu

    Fightlite SCR

    I had to look to see what it was, and voila! Here's a one on Gunbroker: https://www.gunbroker.com/item/915049285 It is even in NJ!
  13. Is that a blanket statement? Maybe you have come across one that doesn't know the law, but the majority will transfer a stripped lower as an other firearm. There are 3 boxes to choose from on the 4473 - "Handgun", "Long Gun (rifle or shotgun)" and "Other Firearm (frame, receiver, etc.)" A stripped lower is neither a handgun or a long gun, but is clearly a receiver.
  14. For inexpensive single action fun I have heard decent things about the Heritage Rough Rider which is a .22. I have an Uberti Cattleman which is a clone of a Colt 1893 - mine is chambered in .357 mag. It's fun to play with. However, my Uberti sits in the safe most of the time. If you're looking for a revolver that you'll actually use look into a double action S&W or Ruger.
  15. That's easy - by selling these scary ideas to the uninformed masses and then fixing the imagined problems the politicians get themselves voted back in time and again. If they hadn't done that and grabbed all the power, how would they be able to force you to submit to their Covid lockdowns - they have surely saved your life and you should be grateful! /sarc
  16. If you're going to leave it in FL, look at the short barreled Kriss Vector. The CRB version is kinda heavy, but the shorty is pretty well balanced, I think.
  17. You will only be arrested/charged for breaking any of the numerous NJ statutes. There is no statute that says you must keep a receipt for any firearm acquired. I have transferred guns to friends with no money changing hands at all - no receipt to retain. So long as you complied with the law when you acquired the pistol you're fine. Assuming you acquired it while a NJ resident so you will have executed a Permit to Purchase a Pistol (and form of register). A copy of that will have been sent to your issuing PD as well as the State Police. You also got a copy, but there is no penalty for losing it. Buying the pistol online is irrelevant as it would have been sent to an FFL in NJ and they would have done the background check before transferring it to you. What you can be arrested/charged with is possessing it in circumstances prohibited in the statutes. Where you obtained it is secondary.
  18. He is only a murderer if he intended to kill the victim. Guilty of homicide, for sure. Not necessarily murder. Consider if you shot and killed someone in self defense. You would have caused the death of that someone, but it would not have been murder. There are other degrees of homicide between a justified killing and murder, too.
  19. Mr.Stu

    Sig P320 AXG Pro

    I have heard good things from friends in the competition world. I haven't shot one, myself.
  20. Take a cab from the next town over? Pay cash.
  21. The springs will lose some of their tension after being worked a few times. When you get your uplula, squeeze in that 10th round and let the mag sit for a week or two. It will get easier. There is also a bit of a knack to loading mags. I can typically fill new ones by hand, but I have been doing it for close to 30 years.
  22. It just means I found my target audience - you're no worse than I am, but that doesn't say much
  23. If you're involved in a shooting make sure you mag dump. That way the perp is in possession of the hollowpoints, not you. /sarc
×
×
  • Create New...