Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
zeenon

Carbon build up

Recommended Posts

I usually clean my guns a day or two after the range, but this time I let it slide and went two trips without cleaning. In the past I used the Otis cleaning kit with Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner (spray) and that worked out but the carbon is pretty build up now and a PITA to get off. There has to be an easier solution that breaks this stuff down. The Hoppes Elite is like Windex, should I pick up a bottle of #9?

 

Z

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

S&W 686 6" 7 shot:

 

Mostly in each chamber of the revolver, where the brass casing and bullet meet.

 

S&W 15-22:

 

The whole area around the ramp, the extractor, etc.

 

Most of it cleans of with ease, but there are always problem areas with caked on carbon.

 

DIRT2.JPG

 

DIRT1.JPG

 

I didn't get to the 15-22 yet, but once I wipe it down the ramp will be caked with carbon.

 

Z

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any designated powder solvent and a stiff nylon bristle brush makes short work of that stuff. for the 686 chamber, just use a borebrush and solvent and work it back and forth. if its REALLY bad, slowly spin a bore brush on a drill and pass it through the chambers (no, brass wont brushes on a drill WONT hurt your chamber).

 

I use MPro7 when I cant use stinky stuff, and Hoppes #9 when I can use stinky stuff 8-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Where you shooting 38 special out of the 686?

 

If so that crud is a PITA to get out.

 

Someone suggested taking a spent 357 brass case and flaring the end with a press so it just fits in the cylinder and using it to scrape out the crud. Seems to work for me. I then follow it up with couple of passes with a lead removal cloth and that finishes the job.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hoppes, Tipton, ADCO, and Birchwood casey make a product called Lead Away Cloth it will remove the carbon circles inside the chambers as well as the circles that develop on the barrel end of the cylinder. Caution do not use on blued or case colored surfaces.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just shot my Taurus M66 and received a nice bit of carbon as well.

 

+1 to the nylon bristle brush. I have one with a thick end and a very thin end great for corners and sharp edges. After a few dozen q-tips and brushing with Hoppes 9 and a massage with a silicon cloth made short work. Shined like it was out of the box.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm still looking for a good degreaser. I've tried Hoppes', Tetra, and now trying Break Free [Powder Blast]. They all work, but nothing that has made me jaw really drop. I still need to get my hands on some Slip to try out.

 

For hard to reach places and massive carbon build up, for tools I use a bore brush, as well as an ice pick.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also, the Meadowlands flea market is a good place for gun cleaning tools.

 

I picked up a few stainless steel dental pick sets for a few bucks that are great for chipping out buildup in the little nooks and pushing patches into hard to reach angles.

 

pickset.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.



  • olight.jpg

    Use Promo Code "NJGF10" for 10% Off Regular Items

  • Supporting Vendors

  • Latest Topics

  • Posts

    • We never let then inside.  Last re-evaluation was 6-7 years ago, wife politely told him that he was welcome to look around the property and he could look in the windows. He saw two white resin chairs in the basement and told her that this constituted a finished basement. And everything in the basement is bare concrete/ cinder block, and mechanical systems. Nothing finished about it. Ultimately he relented and I'm sure that was a ploy to coerce us to allow him in
    • I use an Alien Gear cloak tuck (IWB) with my Shield.  Neoprene back - in the summer it does feel warm but doesn't rub or chafe.   https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-iwb-holster.html Could also go with the shapeshift as it has multiple options - OWB/IWB, Appendix... https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-shapeshift-modular-holster-system.html
    • The  12-1 compression ratio L88 is long gone. This is GM's updated version. it might be  pump gas 10-1 engine The L88 was a aluminum head  cast iron block engine with a nasty solid lifter cam. the  ZL1 was a all aluminum  12 or 13-1 compression ratio engine with the best forged internal parts at the time and had a even nastier solid lifter cam 
    • I like my regular carry holster.  OWB leather with belt slots.  I've been carrying for over a year and it was comfortable and I hardly even noticed it.  I carry (usually) a Ruger LCP .380 - light, convenient, tiny. But...today I ended up taking it off an leaving it home after a few hours. I cut down a big maple tree a few days ago and I spent 3/4 of today loading and unloading firewood into the back of my truck and a trailer.  It was a warm day, I was dirty, tired, sweaty, and my holster was rubbing against my side.  The leather and exposed metal snap was no longer comfortable. I'm thinking about adding a layer of something to that part of the holster to soften the contact.  Anything insulating will make it worse.  I don't want a sweaty, hotter holster against my skin.  I'm imagining something thin, breathable, that won't absorb sweat, and softer than leather, metal snaps, and rivets.   But I have no idea what would work. I'm hoping somebody else has already figured this out and I can just do what they did. Any suggestions appreciated.
    • Check the primers on the ammo you didn't shoot yet. Are they fully seated? If the primer is not just below flush with the back of the case, the first hit can seat it better then the second hit ignites it. 
×
×
  • Create New...