JonF 79 Posted March 8, 2011 Up till now, i've been reloading with my Hornady LnL on the setup below with no complaints. The table is a workbench with a steel frame and 1 1/4" MDF top is is fairly rigid. I noticed that it has some flex, especially when sizing larger brass, but it was never of any concern. I recently acquired the case feeder for my Hornady LnL and with the height of the hopper some 3 feet off the bench, the flex is a tad more noticeable. The hopper will shake a bit when you have to put some grunt on the handle so i figure i should probably reinforce it somehow. I have already bracketed the table to the wall so it doesn't shake, it just. I think if put a layer of something stiffer sandwiched between the press and the work surface, it should stiffen it up some so the press and case feeder tower don't waver. I was thinking a strip of thick steel or aluminum plate wide enough to span the press mounting flange, then spanning rearward a foot or more which is then anchored down in the back to the table again. Anyone have any thoughts on how i can shore this up a bit better? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
civictuner04 6 Posted March 8, 2011 I had my press mounted to a cheap desk. Well long story short it broke loading 308. I built my next table using 2x4 legs and 2 layers of 2x4 on top it may be over kill but there is zero flex now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JonF 79 Posted March 8, 2011 Well, i already have this bench and overall its a nice bench so i'm not looking to get rid of it quite yet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bry@n 195 Posted March 8, 2011 I built mine with 2x6 sides and 2x4 cross bracing. zero flex here and I used 1 inch ply wood for the shelving. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shocker 151 Posted March 8, 2011 You could gusset the legs to the tabletop frame but that's quite a moment arm on the hopper. Which way does it wobble? Parallel to the wall? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JonF 79 Posted March 8, 2011 It sways back and forth (not side to side) in the same direction that the press handle swings when torque is applied. The press itself doesn't perceptibly move very much since its much shorter, but the hopper sitting way up there certainly amplifies the movement. I though about lashing it down with a simple cable but i think that would only work in one direction. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wojo 98 Posted March 8, 2011 I am looking at building a new reloading bench and improve what I had. My existing in part of a 8' long in the wall storage unit I built in my shed that has a 20" work table where the presses sit and all the dies, materials (less powder and primers) are stored. even with 2 layers of 3/4" plywood and 2x4 legs, I am not happy with some of the flex I get loading some tough cases. The next go is going to be 3 layers of 3/4" plywood on a more robust 2x6" frame with the legs bolted to the floor. I am considering doing the entire top with abutted 2x6's and then laying a prefab kitchen counter top on it to make it look 'special'. You can never over do-it when it comes to bench strength. Unless of course the floor starts to sag. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shocker 151 Posted March 8, 2011 Not having that setup I'm only guessing...but there looks like a gap between the bottom of the press and the table. If you fill that with a block of wood or something perhaps that would fix your movement? Then you'd be bearing on the table leg rather than needing the table top and clamp to resist all rotation. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
njJoniGuy 2,133 Posted March 8, 2011 You need to provide some support for the case hopper to stop the sway so why not use 3 or 4 bungees from the hopper edge to strategic wall and ceiling points (cuphooks) near the bench? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan 177 Posted March 9, 2011 Strap the top of the rear bench legs to the wall, preferably to a few studs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
halbautomatisch 60 Posted March 9, 2011 I've been having a similar problem, my bench is 2x4's with a 3/4" plywood top. The bench is bolted to the wall and doesn't move at all but the plywood has started flexing. I am planning on installing two more 2x4 sections under the plywood (one for each mounting bolt) and drilling the mounting holes long ways through the 2x4's and using 6" bolts to then secure it. I'm hoping that will take care of it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rifleman 90 Posted March 9, 2011 Glue & screw 2 x 4 on edge. Put it under the MDF. Build real legs w/4 x 4. Do it right and you won't regret the time or cost. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JonF 79 Posted March 9, 2011 Strap the top of the rear bench legs to the wall, preferably to a few studs. I actually did this in the beginning and it helped immensely. I just need to get rid of the table top flex now that the frame is secure. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JonF 79 Posted March 9, 2011 Glue & screw 2 x 4 on edge. Put it under the MDF. Build real legs w/4 x 4. Do it right and you won't regret the time or cost. The frame is sturdy fully boxed steel that bracketed to studs in the back wall, its definitely not the weak link here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sigman 41 Posted March 9, 2011 Is the press itself rocking (non sturdy mount) or the table top flexing? If it's the table top, throw another 3/4" top on. You may need to mount the press to a section of 2 x 8 or 2 x 10, then mount that to the table. If you have a steel plate, use that. I have a heavy duty bench with 2 layers of 3/4" ply, My press is then mounted to a section of 2 x 8 bolted to the top of the bench. This works pretty well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hd2000fxdl 422 Posted March 9, 2011 To sure up the table you have, maybe you can gusset the corners of the legs to the cross brace the top, and if that doesn't do it maybe the lower cross members to the legs also. Another thing that may help if none of the works is you could double layer the top with another piece, if you really like the factory top mabe a 3/4" ply or partical board under the existing top. Just some ideas to get you thinking. Harry Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JonF 79 Posted March 9, 2011 So far the gusseting and/or the extra layering sounds like a good first step. I'm still inclined to sandwich a thick slab of steel under the press through which the press mounting bolts pass and then have additional anchor bolts to the table. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites