Shocker

https://www.burglarbomb.com/ "It's not a booby trap" lol

My openers have a process to "forget" all paired devices. You will have to re-pair every device again but it should stop any cloned device from working It takes more than just unplugging to forget, I had to look up my model's user's manual.

Hmm that's an interesting point. So what happens if they were combined and the 24v from the heater transformer were connected to the relays for the A/C or vice versa? Can that be mitigated by using one of those transformer kits to create a common wire? ...also, 16 zones?! Their heater circulator has many branches that can be independently tuned for flow (do you count each of those as a zone?) but only two thermostats.

Thanks. AC and heat for zone 1 are a few inches apart, then AC and heat for zone 2 are at the other end of the house. So yes, they should only be sensing the areas they control I just couldnt figure out why when they put in the AC they didn’t just hook up the heat to the same t’stat, especially since the wires are close. I can only assume laziness.

I know there are some HVAC people on here, just had a question about consolidating thermostats So PSE&G customers can buy smart thermostats ridiculously cheap right now (psegmarketplace.com) and my parents were thinking about getting one or two. But their house has separate thermostats for the A/C and their radiant heat, and two zones, for four total t'stats. That instant rebate is limited to two per person. The heat side is really simple, just two wires - 24v and Heat call. The A/C has whatever A/C needs - cool call, 24v, Fan and Compressor relay, IIRC (maybe the R is jumped to Rc for some reason as well...not at their house as I type this...) Is there any reason I can't simply connect the two heat leads to the corresponding terminals on the A/C t'stat and consolidate to one t'stat for each zone? I can't imagine a problem since the heater is basically on or off...but I'm not looking to cause a problem either. TIA

Are you looking auto or quartz? I hear good things about Hamilton autos. I'm not sure who makes their movements any more but they're Swatch owned now so you could tell everyone it was an Omega-Lite, lol. My Omega has been running without service or adjustment for 4 years now which my B&M and TAG can't compare to (although it's a co-axial so perhaps that's not fair) My watch is my only man-bling so all mine are interesting for one reason or another. If all I needed was a clock then as it's been said before, my phone works just fine.

ZT0566 although that elmax is hard to sharpen (at least, IMHO). I also carry a ZT0450 which is more of a "gentleman's folder" (plus it's an unassisted) and I like that S35VN a bit better.

With that party-of-6 or -4 or however many it was, they granted the permit to one guy and that meant he automatically had no more standing, right? And another guy moved to PA or something. IDK about the rest This case isn't structured the same but IANAL and the intricacies are beyond me. I just chip in my $10 and hope for the best...

http://soldiersystems.net/2018/05/14/nswc-crane-carbine-mid-length-gas-system-testing-shows-increased-performance/ it’s worth about what you paid for it. (But you’re a taxpayer and NSWC Crane did the work soooo...)

I had the spikes also, they called it the ST-22, but IIRC it didn't have anything beyond the conversion bolt that any AR-15 upper could use. That conversion bolt won't lock open on an empty magazine so I sold it and got an M&P 15-22. ETA: also that CCI AR ammo I was using left a lot of crud in the pinned brake, and thats supposed to be decent stuff. Its nice not having a brake on the "compliant" 15-22 model.

I can’t find any information about this “floating die” can you elaborate? If you meant a floating seating stem then AFAIK most seating dies have that To the OP, the Army Marksmanship Unit uses modified Redding dies in Dillon 1050’s for precision rifle so there are many ways to skin this particular cat

This one had caught my eye https://www.pyramydair.com/s/m/Crosman_DPMS_SBR_Full_Auto_BB_Air_Rifle/4571 But since it magically becomes a "firearm" when it crosses the NJ border now you have both a machine gun AND an SBR...at that point you might as well throw a suppressor on it too and get the trifecta

You can't feel pressure by itself, you have to integrate pressure over the whole surface. So as a gross approximation, a 120mm round is 17.5 in^2 across its base, times 60ksi is 1 million pounds of peak force, propelling the round forward and the gun backward (conservation of momentum aside for now). A 7mm round is 0.06 in^2, times 60ksi is 3579 pounds. Still sounds like a big number but it's not even in the same league To get MV you'd have to divide the propelling force by the projectile mass, subtracting bore resistance. But, again, it's an integral calculation because the propellant doesn't push consistently as it burns. The upshot is higher pressure will likely mean higher velocity but unless they're doing something crazy with the propellants or adding sound suppression they'll never get it to be hearing safe

The old "beater burner" lol

Yes lastpass seems to be the popular choice and thus the popular hacking target. They seem to be responsive when vulnerabilities are exposed but who knows Dashlane was a good alternative when I was looking too