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JonF

Need to reinforce my reloading bench

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Up till now, i've been reloading with my Hornady LnL on the setup below with no complaints. The table is a workbench with a steel frame and 1 1/4" MDF top is is fairly rigid. I noticed that it has some flex, especially when sizing larger brass, but it was never of any concern. I recently acquired the case feeder for my Hornady LnL and with the height of the hopper some 3 feet off the bench, the flex is a tad more noticeable. The hopper will shake a bit when you have to put some grunt on the handle so i figure i should probably reinforce it somehow.

 

I have already bracketed the table to the wall so it doesn't shake, it just. I think if put a layer of something stiffer sandwiched between the press and the work surface, it should stiffen it up some so the press and case feeder tower don't waver. I was thinking a strip of thick steel or aluminum plate wide enough to span the press mounting flange, then spanning rearward a foot or more which is then anchored down in the back to the table again. Anyone have any thoughts on how i can shore this up a bit better?

 

 

IMG_20110303_102803.jpg

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It sways back and forth (not side to side) in the same direction that the press handle swings when torque is applied. The press itself doesn't perceptibly move very much since its much shorter, but the hopper sitting way up there certainly amplifies the movement. I though about lashing it down with a simple cable but i think that would only work in one direction.

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I am looking at building a new reloading bench and improve what I had. My existing in part of a 8' long in the wall storage unit I built in my shed that has a 20" work table where the presses sit and all the dies, materials (less powder and primers) are stored. even with 2 layers of 3/4" plywood and 2x4 legs, I am not happy with some of the flex I get loading some tough cases. The next go is going to be 3 layers of 3/4" plywood on a more robust 2x6" frame with the legs bolted to the floor. I am considering doing the entire top with abutted 2x6's and then laying a prefab kitchen counter top on it to make it look 'special'.

 

You can never over do-it when it comes to bench strength. Unless of course the floor starts to sag.

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Not having that setup I'm only guessing...but there looks like a gap between the bottom of the press and the table. If you fill that with a block of wood or something perhaps that would fix your movement? Then you'd be bearing on the table leg rather than needing the table top and clamp to resist all rotation.

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I've been having a similar problem, my bench is 2x4's with a 3/4" plywood top. The bench is bolted to the wall and doesn't move at all but the plywood has started flexing. I am planning on installing two more 2x4 sections under the plywood (one for each mounting bolt) and drilling the mounting holes long ways through the 2x4's and using 6" bolts to then secure it. I'm hoping that will take care of it.

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Strap the top of the rear bench legs to the wall, preferably to a few studs.

I actually did this in the beginning and it helped immensely. I just need to get rid of the table top flex now that the frame is secure.

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Glue & screw 2 x 4 on edge. Put it under the MDF. Build real legs w/4 x 4. Do it right and you won't regret the time or cost.

The frame is sturdy fully boxed steel that bracketed to studs in the back wall, its definitely not the weak link here.

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Is the press itself rocking (non sturdy mount) or the table top flexing? If it's the table top, throw another 3/4" top on. You may need to mount the press to a section of 2 x 8 or 2 x 10, then mount that to the table. If you have a steel plate, use that.

 

I have a heavy duty bench with 2 layers of 3/4" ply, My press is then mounted to a section of 2 x 8 bolted to the top of the bench. This works pretty well.

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To sure up the table you have, maybe you can gusset the corners of the legs to the cross brace the top, and if that doesn't do it maybe the lower cross members to the legs also.

 

Another thing that may help if none of the works is you could double layer the top with another piece, if you really like the factory top mabe a 3/4" ply or partical board under the existing top.

 

Just some ideas to get you thinking.

 

Harry

 

 

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So far the gusseting and/or the extra layering sounds like a good first step. I'm still inclined to sandwich a thick slab of steel under the press through which the press mounting bolts pass and then have additional anchor bolts to the table.

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