AR Anatomy

[Nick T 4]

Ok so Tony took possession of my lower, and being anxious to go pick it up I'm considering build options. Question for you guys is I have never owned a role of this type, and would like to know if there is an AR bible out there so I can study and figure out what I need. What parts go with what. So far I have a spikes ST lower. Ordering my lower parts kit and as far as my upper goes I'm looking at a DD A4 flat top, want to do a 16-18" bull barrel quad rails and probably a MOE stock, then get ready for optics. My funds are very limited so this will be a snail of a build.

[SSlav 14]

Ok so Tony took possession of my lower, and being anxious to go pick it up I'm considering build options. Question for you guys is I have never owned a role of this type, and would like to know if there is an AR bible out there so I can study and figure out what I need. What parts go with what. So far I have a spikes ST lower. Ordering my lower parts kit and as far as my upper goes I'm looking at a DD A4 flat top, want to do a 16-18" bull barrel quad rails and probably a MOE stock, then get ready for optics. My funds are very limited so this will be a snail of a build.

 

What are do you want to use this rifle for?

[Nick T 4]

What are do you want to use this rifle for?

General plinker, this is more or less a teach myself rifle. To learn the ins and outs of the AR platform not necessarily gonna be a tacticool piece, just wanna build a rugged reliable range piece that doubles as a SHTF rifle

[Krdshrk 3,877]

Well this is definitely a good sounding board here. I just went through my build not so long ago. What's your budget? Look at AR15.com for some more helpful hints - lower assembly, group buys on LPK's, etc.

[Nick T 4]

Well this is definitely a good sounding board here. I just went through my build not so long ago. What's your budget? Look at AR15.com for some more helpful hints - lower assembly, group buys on LPK's, etc.

Final build budget I'm looking to spend around $800 total but this will be done in stages as my budget will vary from month to month, (I could buy it all in one shot, but then I lose the money I've been saving for my down payment on my Harley, and that I won't give up)

[SSlav 14]

General plinker, this is more or less a teach myself rifle. To learn the ins and outs of the AR platform not necessarily gonna be a tacticool piece, just wanna build a rugged reliable range piece that doubles as a SHTF rifle

 

Then why would you want a bull barrel? Do you feel like you need a workout and like to support extra weight - especially forward of the receiver? Or perhaps you want to spend a little extra cash? I would (and have) go with Bravo Company mid length 16* barrel.

 

Term SHTF always makes me laugh. Exactly what "S" do you expect to "H" what "F"? In any situation if you have a firearm - any firearm - you are better off than with a baseball bat or a tire iron. And here is a hint - fancy stock or quad rails do not make the rifle any more reliable.

 

ACE Skeleton Stock is light, relatively inexpensive, has nice foam cushion for a comfortable cheek weld in all temperatures.

 

Nordic Tactical Compensator works, is inexpensive and has the same diameter as the barrel so once pinned or soldered to the barrel will still allow you to remove the gas block in case you want to change handguards or gas block or rebarrel your ar without having to cut metal.

 

I would go with free float tube. You can get a plain one for about $100. If you have your heart set on quad rails I would go with Yankee Hill rifle length It is light and at $135 a bargain compared with other name brands that will run you up to twice as much. You would need a low profile gas block because rifle length handguards would go over the gas block on a mid length gas system. There are many options there. I would not spend money on an adjustable gas block.

 

 

Anyway that is my opinion. I am sure you will get others.

[Nick T 4]

Then why would you want a bull barrel? Do you feel like you need a workout and like to support extra weight - especially forward of the receiver? Or perhaps you want to spend a little extra cash? I would (and have) go with Bravo Company mid length 16* barrel.

 

Term SHTF always makes me laugh. Exactly what "S" do you expect to "H" what "F"? In any situation if you have a firearm - any firearm - you are better off than with a baseball bat or a tire iron. And here is a hint - fancy stock or quad rails do not make the rifle any more reliable.

 

ACE Skeleton Stock is light, relatively inexpensive, has nice foam cushion for a comfortable cheek weld in all temperatures.

 

Nordic Tactical Compensator works, is inexpensive and has the same diameter as the barrel so once pinned or soldered to the barrel will still allow you to remove the gas block in case you want to change handguards or gas block or rebarrel your ar without having to cut metal.

 

I would go with free float tube. You can get a plain one for about $100. If you have your heart set on quad rails I would go with Yankee Hill rifle length It is light and at $135 a bargain compared with other name brands that will run you up to twice as much. You would need a low profile gas block because rifle length handguards would go over the gas block on a mid length gas system. There are many options there. I would not spend money on an adjustable gas block.

 

 

Anyway that is my opinion. I am sure you will get others.

As far as the bull barrel goes I was always under the information heavier barrel easier to shoot, and that a bull barrel withstands much more and is by all means more accurate (where I am not), not to mention I prefer the look over your standard M4 barrel. SHTF well as far as this guys I dont have a solid answer for you except for what does the exact definition of the term matter, I'd rather be prepared than not. Quad rails and MOE stock why, because I like them if I'm building a rifle I don't want it to be ugly as sin to me. To me firearms are more than just something for defensive purposes or a means to gather food, or a form of sport I also see them as a form of art as well, it by no means gives me the impression that this gun is now going to out perform the next because I have some *insert name here* digital camo 2 piece quad rails but that that is look I find appealing. I apologize if my response sounds in any way condescending as I assure you it is not meant to be, and typing online takes all context out of speech. I appreciate your input

[Vlad G 345]

BTW Slav wasn't just talking out of his bum, he pretty much described the core of his rifle and mine. We both run BCM 16" mid length barrels with nordic comps, free float tubes and Ace stocks for 3gun and such. BTW the barrel profile on those is not M4, it is the "government" profile, like the older M16's, straight in front of the gas block, skinny behind.

 

The only advantage of bull barrels is rigidity, and a I guess a larger heat mass. The problem is that the rigidity only gets you that last %2 percent of performance and a large heat mass overheats slower but also cools slower. If you only shoot from a bench, you don't care and you will never care. As soon as you pick the rifle and shoot it off hand, you run around, you shoot it from awkward positions, etc, every ounce starts to matter. You start removing every bit that's not important and you start looking for lighter versions of the bits that matter. My rifle is currently 7lb 15ounces with optics and sling, and I think it needs to lose those extra 15ounces somehow.

 

Free float tubes are a MUST. They make a HUGE difference. Don't take my word, try it. Shoot your rifle from prone resting the gun on the magazine, not touching the barrel anywhere. Shoot it again while resting on the barrel or non free floated tube. At 100 yards you will be a couple of inches off for the two groups. At 300 yards you will be off the target. I don't care if the tube has rails or not, as long as its free floated.

[Nick T 4]

BTW Slav wasn't just talking out of his bum, he pretty much described the core of his rifle and mine. We both run BCM 16" mid length barrels with nordic comps, free float tubes and Ace stocks for 3gun and such. BTW the barrel profile on those is not M4, it is the "government" profile, like the older M16's, straight in front of the gas block, skinny behind.

 

The only advantage of bull barrels is rigidity, and a I guess a larger heat mass. The problem is that the rigidity only gets you that last %2 percent of performance and a large heat mass overheats slower but also cools slower. If you only shoot from a bench, you don't care and you will never care. As soon as you pick the rifle and shoot it off hand, you run around, you shoot it from awkward positions, etc, every ounce starts to matter. You start removing every bit that's not important and you start looking for lighter versions of the bits that matter. My rifle is currently 7lb 15ounces with optics and sling, and I think it needs to lose those extra 15ounces somehow.

 

Free float tubes are a MUST. They make a HUGE difference. Don't take my word, try it. Shoot your rifle from prone resting the gun on the magazine, not touching the barrel anywhere. Shoot it again while resting on the barrel or non free floated tube. At 100 yards you will be a couple of inches off for the two groups. At 300 yards you will be off the target. I don't care if the tube has rails or not, as long as its free floated.

Thanks for info like I said I know most of what he's saying is spot on, I take what is said here as great value as 99.99% of you guys are some of the most proficient firearms owners I've talked to and gained input from, yes I plan on running free float I was looking at the BCM's, like I said if anyone knows of an AR owners bible out there I'd love to find a copy so I can get my research on

[SSlav 14]

To me firearms are more than just something for defensive purposes or a means to gather food, or a form of sport I also see them as a form of art as well, it by no means gives me the impression that this gun is now going to out perform the next because I have some *insert name here* digital camo 2 piece quad rails but that that is look I find appealing.

 

 

Well I certainly understand the looking cool aspect. But with a budget of $800 for the build, if you add something that looks cool but offers no function you are likely sacrificing something else that has function rather than cool.

 

Lets do some math. Here is what you must have (meaning no way not to spend at least this much):

 

Upper/Lower Receivers ~= $200 (minimum)

Barrel ~= $230

Bolt Group ~= $150

Gas Block ~= $30

Minor Parts ~= $150

(upper kit, lower kit,

gas tube, charging handle

buffr & Spring

etc...)

 

And you are now at $760

Toss in shipping and handling and you are probably very close to your $800 limit.

 

Now you need to add compensator, handguards and a stock

 

And lets not forget the optic. Just about any option that is worth spending money on will run a couple hundred at least. If you are spending less than that you are likely throwing money away on junk that will have to be replaced with something quality later on.

[Krdshrk 3,877]

AR15.com has a group buy on the Palmetto State Armory Lower MOE Build kit which is what I used for my AR - $124.99 + $7 shipping ($131.99 total):

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=121&t=856813&page=1

 

I like the kit - worked well in my AR and the trigger is decent.

 

For the upper, I got mine through Old School (Frank) from JSE Surplus. You can buy the uppers with pretty much all you need, including a Comp/Brake. I got the YHM Phantom 5M2 on mine.

 

I think they even have a special right now on the AR Upper with a Free float tube.

http://www.jsesurplus.com/custom16hbarmidlength1x9flattopuppercompletestandard-2-1-2.aspx

[XDJohnTact 49]

I just finished my first AR build and my requirements were very similar to yours. This was going to be a range plinker and I wanted to keep it low budget and simple. I go the directions off of ar15.com (although a monkey could put one of these things together they are so simple) and Tim was kind enough to steer me to some reliable and affordable options. Here is what I built. A lot of the Magpul stuff I got from MidwestPX, TY is a great dealer and forum supporter.

 

 

Spikes Lower

Spikes Lower Parts Kit

Spikes Buffer Tube & Buffer

Magpul Dark Earth Trigger Guard

Magpul MOE Dark Earth Stock, pinned

Magpul MOE Dark Earth Handguard

Magpul Dark Earth Grip

Magpul Flat Dark Earth P-Mags 15/20

 

16" DPMS Lo-Pro Barrel Assembly (Post Ban)16" Target Crowned Bull Barrel

4140 Chrome-Moly Steel

1-9 Twist

Manganese Phosphated

GlacierGuards™ Handguards

Lo-Pro Upper Receiver

Complete Bolt Carrier Assembly

Single Rail Gas Block

 

[Vlad G 345]

if anyone knows of an AR owners bible out there I'd love to find a copy so I can get my research on

 

 

Actually yes, there is one, and it should be named "My first black rifle" and should come with every lower receiver as far as I'm concerned. Instead it is called Green Eyes and Black Rifles and you have to buy it yourself. The guy that wrote that book is Kyle Lamb, the guy behind Viking Tactics (or VTAC) which by itself doesn't mean anything, except for the fact he has been a pretty decent 3gun shooter for some time, which also means nothing. What really means something is that he is a retired SGM with about 20 years of experience with Delta force, from Mogadishu (yes, Blackhawk Down stuff) to the late middle east unpleasantness. The book was written while on deployment with input from his co-workers. He covers EVERYTHING from barrel selection, optics, slings, low light, malfunctions, maintenance, shooting positions, practice drills, transitions to secondary weapons, etc.

[Turbotezza 1]

Doods! The guy asked for a "AR bible".... Twice!

 

You will need an assembly guide. This is the one I have.

 

The AR-15 Complete Assembly Guide, Volume 2" Book by Walt Kuleck with Clint McKee Vol 2

 

You can get it at ebay, amazon, Midway USA

Rertails at about $20, but street price is lower.

 

If you want build ideas/configurations/pics etc. something like the "Gun Digest book of The AR-15" by Patrick Sweeney will help. I got my copy from Boarders in a cheap sale!

 

Heck, just go to places like Midway's book section and you sell lots of AR-15 guides.

[bbk 188]

Why even spend the money on any print when more up-to-date information is available online, for free?

[Vlad G 345]

Why even spend the money on any print when more up-to-date information is available online, for free?

 

 

Because lets face it, the guy online (myself included) might be a competent professional or a kook living in a wine barrel wearing a tin foil hat or anywhere in between. Online resources are great, but never trust a single one, research as many sources as possible. The other issue is that what might have worked GREAT for one person may be **** for another.

[Krdshrk 3,877]

Because lets face it, the guy online (myself included) might be a competent professional or a kook living in a wine barrel wearing a tin foil hat or anywhere in between. Online resources are great, but never trust a single one, research as many sources as possible. The other issue is that what might have worked GREAT for one person may be **** for another.

 

I dunno about you but the AR Lower build guides on AR15.com are pretty darn good. Very easy to follow for me.

[Vlad G 345]

Sorry I wasn't referring to the assembly guides, they are decent enough. I was referring the selection of bits to assemble.

[Krdshrk 3,877]

Ahh ok - gotcha. I do like the reviews online by actual users though - reports of how many rounds through, any issues, etc. You do have to take it with a grain of salt, but I generally prefer peer reviews compared to magazines. Some things only magazines can review - like some stuff with cars that need specialized equipment, etc. I do feel like some publications are heavily influenced by the manufacturers, though

[Nick T 4]

Well I certainly understand the looking cool aspect. But with a budget of $800 for the build, if you add something that looks cool but offers no function you are likely sacrificing something else that has function rather than cool.

 

Lets do some math. Here is what you must have (meaning no way not to spend at least this much):

 

Upper/Lower Receivers ~= $200 (minimum)

Barrel ~= $230

Bolt Group ~= $150

Gas Block ~= $30

Minor Parts ~= $150

(upper kit, lower kit,

gas tube, charging handle

buffr & Spring

etc...)

 

And you are now at $760

Toss in shipping and handling and you are probably very close to your $800 limit.

 

Now you need to add compensator, handguards and a stock

 

And lets not forget the optic. Just about any option that is worth spending money on will run a couple hundred at least. If you are spending less than that you are likely throwing money away on junk that will have to be replaced with something quality later on.

I apologize the build start is $800 I know realistically it is going to run me more (I was being somewhat vague id like a bull barrel and DD quad rails does it mean I will use them right away, probably not, does it mean I will get them in the future, most likely so) optics won't be for awhile yet, that is the last thing I will buy. Again thanks for the input, and to the others you answered my OP I thank you as well, yes I like to have something tangible, the ability to highlight certain aspects and revert back to them if necessary

[Krdshrk 3,877]

FYI my build was $880 total WITH optic. It's doable

[SSlav 14]

Ahh ok - gotcha. I do like the reviews online by actual users though - reports of how many rounds through, any issues, etc. You do have to take it with a grain of salt, but I generally prefer peer reviews compared to magazines. Some things only magazines can review - like some stuff with cars that need specialized equipment, etc. I do feel like some publications are heavily influenced by the manufacturers, though

 

Gun magazines specifically are absolutely useless as a source of reliable information. Those glossy rags are entirely in the pocket of the industry and are primarily focused on figuring out a way to spin any turd into the next greatest thing since the invention of gunpowder.

[Krdshrk 3,877]

Gun magazines specifically are absolutely useless as a source of reliable information. Those glossy rags are entirely in the pocket of the industry and are primarily focused on figuring out a way to spin any turd into the next greatest thing since the invention of gunpowder.

 

Exactly - that's why I go for online/peer reviews. My references were mainly towards car mags....

[bbk 188]

Because lets face it, the guy online (myself included) might be a competent professional or a kook living in a wine barrel wearing a tin foil hat or anywhere in between. Online resources are great, but never trust a single one, research as many sources as possible. The other issue is that what might have worked GREAT for one person may be **** for another.

 

Anybody who relies on one single bit of information deserves to get bit in the arse. Spending the extra time doing the research, whether it takes minutes or days or weeks, has far more value then referring, to again, a single source. Personally I have drawn from my own applied experience with the AR-type system, as well as from discussing with plenty of other professionals who were in the same type of industry. But I didn't stop there-- talked to hunters, competition shooters, and casual shooters... and from the holistic approach, I have learned a far greater amount of both the system at the technical level and of my applied use with the system.

 

So, ultimately, I would rather teach a man how to fish, rather then just show him. With that said, sources like SGM Lamb is a good start, but there are plenty of other sources out there with plenty of value-- for free.

 

As for being able to filter out the good with the bad, that's what asking questions is for, as the responses will create a general pattern.

[NorthernYankee 94]

I apologize the build start is $800 I know realistically it is going to run me more (I was being somewhat vague id like a bull barrel and DD quad rails does it mean I will use them right away, probably not, does it mean I will get them in the future, most likely so) optics won't be for awhile yet, that is the last thing I will buy. Again thanks for the input, and to the others you answered my OP I thank you as well, yes I like to have something tangible, the ability to highlight certain aspects and revert back to them if necessary

 

I am in the process of a build right now just like you. I had originally planned, like you, to keep it about $800 or so. But after pricing everything out I realized that it was unrealistic and now am going to be spending almost twice that. I will give one piece of advice which was given to me by Vlad, if you are taking the time to pick each individual piece, do it right the first time. If you want a quad rail, don't buy something now just to get it built, then replace it later with what you really want. Take the extra time to save up the money and get what you really want.

 

Also as someone mentioned take a look at the Yankee Hill Diamond FF Quad rail. I was looking at the DD too but am going with the YH after reading a bunch of reviews from owners. Also don't forget Mags they will run about $25 a pice and figure that you will need 2 or 3.

[Krdshrk 3,877]

2-3 mags? I'd say at least 6. I only have 4 right now and definitely need to get more....

 

I think Tactical Monkey is selling a used DD Omega rail here - carbine length free float rail. That would be a good deal for you.

[SSlav 14]

I think Tactical Monkey is selling a used DD Omega rail here - carbine length free float rail. That would be a good deal for you.

 

I like rifle length handguards. It is not so much the question of aesthetics but rather being able to grip the gun way forward with the support arm being straight. It allows for quicker transition and faster follow-up shots.

 

Slav

[Vlad G 345]

Vlads guide to "bits" selection for a general purpose civilian AR

 

This is based on my personal preferences, after collecting data from more experienced sources and experimenting with configuration in the competition world but with an eye to zombie apocalypse use. This may not be the right thing for everyone, and pure competition rifles differ by quite a bit from this. It is ordered in what I believe to be importance order, with most important first.

 

 

Bits that make the rifle boom:

 

Barrel: This is the heart of the rifle. If this bit doesn't work, the rest is worthless. For me the IDEAL barrel is a 18", government profile, rifle length gas system, chrome lined, 1/8 twist. Unfortunately, while such things exist they are fairly rare and expensive (about $400 for the cheapest). The more practical approach is 16", government profile , midlength gas system, chrome lined, 1/7 twist. These are available and affordable, I use a BCM one. The 14.5" with pinned comp barrels are cute and handy but you start giving up velocity and for my long arms they are too short. I like to reach far forward on the hand guard and I'd like to not put my hand in front of the muzzle. The Government profile is a good compromise of weight to rigidity, and while the latest M4 barrels are now heavier under the hand guards that is because they are expected to deal with prolonged full auto fire, not an issue for civilian rifles. Heavy barrels (hbar or bull) have a place if you want a precision rifle, but then you are talking about bipods, stationary shooting positions, etc. Basically you don't see the advantages unless you are shooting from a very static position, and the rest of the time they slow you down, they slow down transitions from target to target, the fatigue the shooter, etc. Heavy barrels also heat up slower, but they also cool down slower. Chrome lining is a must, it makes the barrel wear better, deal better with crappy ammo and dirt, and clean easier. Yes in theory certain non-chromed barrels are more accurate but this is not a varminting rifle, it is a general purpose rifle, and most people won't shoot it as well as it can anyway. The twist is selected because while 1/8 might be the best compromise for all bullet weights, 1/7 is far more available and it will shoot well with most bullet weights over 55gr. You also want the longest gas system you can squeeze in reliably, mid length for a 16" barrel. A longer gas system is smoother to shoot, and less violent on the rest of the parts.

 

Handguards: Free floated handguards are very important. Resting the barrel (or handguards attached to it) on anything will result in considerable change in point of impact. It doesn't matter if your barrel is full bull barrel or an ultra light, the point of impact will change because the barrel is never rigid during firing. The barrel whip around as the bullet passes through and changing how that whipping motion happens changes the bullet impact location. Free floated hanguards allow you to shoot from various rests, bipods, resting the rifle on a wall, window, tree branch, putting extra hand pressure on it, or pulling it in with a sling without changing the way the barrel moves. I like the longest handguard I can get away with, I run a rifle length handguard on a 16" barrel. This allows me to place my support hand further forward (allowing for more precise off hand shooting and faster transitions from target to target). This means you will have to use a low profile gas block that hides under the tube (thus protecting the gas tube a bit more a well). The free float handguard also allows you attach and remove bits from your rifle (lights, sights, forward grips, can openers, coffee makers) without changing the tension on the barrel and changing its point of impact. If you don't use a free float tube, attaching and removing a flash light will probably change the point of impact and require a re-zero. The type of tube you use is up to you. As I like light rifles I like light tubes. The lightest out there are carbon fiber but they have the disadvantage of making it harder to attach anything to them. Some of the carbon fiber ones (like the PRI) have provisions for that as well. I like rails a much as the next guy and my current handguard is light and has full rails at all 4 cardinal points, but ideally you probably want a handguard that as full top rail section and removable rail sections everywhere else. The Troy TRX Extreme is a decent compromise of weight and rail flexibility.

 

Bolt Group: This is the main moving part in your gun and the one most likely to break due to impact and wear. Select a quality bolt group, with well staked gas key, and if possible a shot pinned and MPI'ed bolt. A quality extractor and extractor springs are also important. The light weight carriers from JP are cute and do make the gun fill softer shooting, but I prefer the more rugged standard carrier.

 

Trigger: While a milspec trigger is pretty darn rugged, it is far from a pleasant trigger. Yes, people can shoot them quite well, and they work, but a quality trigger will make the whole experience better and allow the shooter to get the most out of the rifle. I've used a milspec single stage for some time, insisting that reliability is more important then anything, but I was a bit of a fool. While some adjustable triggers can be less reliable if their screws wonder, there are now MANY ultra reliable triggers on the market that are far superior to the standard trigger. The Geissele triggers are superb for example, and their SSA/SSF model is now standard on precision military rifles, and viewed as the most reliable trigger available. I'm currently using a Geissele Super Dynamic 3gun, but it is a bit odd and an acquired taste, but a like it.

 

Bits that let you hit the target better:

 

Optics Mounts: Yes the mounts are more important then the optics themselves. You can cheap out a bit on the optics themselves, but if you go cheap on the mounts it doesn't matter how good your optics are. I prefer quick detachable mounts that return to zero when you remount them so I prefer Larue mounts. They are not cheap but they work and work and work. I can switch between various optics at will and I know they will still be zero'ed. The ADM mounts are also bullet proof and very reliable and so are a few others. Do not be cheap with our mounts.

 

Optics: Optics selection is dependent on intended use. For a general purpose rifle the high magnification optics make no sense to me. They are very slow to use at close range and often don't offer a low enough amplification or decent eye relief. What is a low enough amplification you ask? The answer is 1x, though 1.5x will do in a pinch. On the bright side there are LOTS of 1-4x scopes on the market in every price bracket and they are only getting better every day with more options also appearing every day. They vary in cost from $200 to $3000 and generally you are getting something better with every $100 more you spend. The sweet spot is around $800 right now. I have one of the cheaper ones (Millet DMS I purchased when the available options where far less diverse) and it works ok. The scope mount is actually more expensive then the scope, and while the scope works well I wouldn't trust it bang it around to much. I would recommend something in the $600-$800 range like the Vortex Viper PST, Meopta k-dot, the new Super Sniper 1-4, Trijicon Accu-points, etc. The other option is red dots. I've actually switched my primary optics from a scope to a red dot recently. I wanted to experiment with the tiny aimpoint T1/H1 versions but I didn't want to spend $500 on one so I went with a Primary Arms $80 clone again in a Larue mount that is more expensive then the optic. So far it has been very rugged and accurate. Eventually I'll get a real aimpoint funds permitting as I'm sold on the idea of tinny red dots. I can reliably hit 3-4moa targets up to 300 yards and beyond from prone and out of breath and while it is a bit slower then a scope at extended ranges, around here most competition targets are under 100yards and I find the dot far faster. For practical use, walk outside and see how often you can see further then 200 yards, and thats not very often. If I lived and shot out west I might have a different opinion, on the other hand .223 is not a particularly stellar cartridge past 300-400 yards anyway. I would stay away from Eotechs, I've seen way to many break and way to many more reports of them breaking. Edited to add: For variable power scopes there are a few other things to worry about. You want forgiving eye relief because while shooting from the bench you can always have consistent head placement, that gets harder on the move or from odd positions (Ask Ronny about shooting through low ports). You also want a reticle that is conducive to fast shooting and with some hold over indicators. If at all possible you want a day time illuminated reticle that is visible in bright sunlight so at 1x it looks like a red dot, but unfortunately this feature works well only on the more expensive scopes.

 

Iron sights: If your iron sights are you primary sighting device pick ones which are not folding. Any folding sight has play in it and deploying and folding them will change slightly the point of impact. If they are secondary folding sights are fine. Magpul sights are nice and light but have more play in them then most. If at all possible mount your front sight on the barrel or gas block, not on the handguard. The free float hanguard is there to keep the flex and such away from the barrel. It does that by absorbing the flex itself. It may look rigid but it is not. If you mount your front sight on the handguard expect it to move around as you rest your gun on the handguard moving the zero. Handguard mounted sights work ok for minute-of-bad-guy at close range, but if you want them to be accurate at longer ranges mount them on the barrel.

 

Muzzle devices: Compensator help quite a bit in controlling recoil and coming back on a target. You want one. This being NJ, I recommend the Nordic Components Tactical because it works really well as a comp and when permanently attached it is the same diameter as the barrel and allows you to take your gun apart without removing it. There are better comps, but the flexibility is awesome. Plus it is very light.

 

 

Everything else:

 

Uppers, lowers, etc: as long as they are in spec and made by a reliable source, these don't matter as much as people make it out to be. Lower and upper don't need to be that tight to each other. Quality recoil systems and well attached recoil spring tube are important.

 

Stocks, grips, forward grips, etc: Whatever works for you. I prefer full length rifle stocks because they allow for the longer rifle recoil system which is softer. I'm also fairly tall with long arms so for me the A2 lengths is just fine. Actually the plain A2 stock is quite nice, but I use an Ace stock and I like it. Grips need to fit your hand, so find one that does. I like the Magpul modular one, but whatever works for you. Forward grips are handy if you have lots of crap on your rifle but learn to use them correctly. Holding them like pistol grip has been dubbed "going full retard" and doesn't really help you control the rifle, the current popular approach is "half-retard" with the hand grasping the hand guard right in front of the forward grip with part of the palm on the grip. The Magpul AFG is kinda cool and I've been going back and forth on using mine. I'm back to using it now.

 

Small parts: Just make sure they are in spec and fit well, or they will give you headaches later.

 

Slings: Two point slings are the best answer, though not ideal. 3 point slings get in the way and tangle on things. 1 point slings look cool and allow for switching shooting sides quickly, but transitioning to secondary gun or carrying the rifle on one is .. uncomfortable. You end up with the barrel hitting you in the crotch and knees, makes it harder to move, and if you are a girl it does bad things to your boobs. Quality 2 point slings are the way to go, VTAC, Blue Force, Magpul, they all work well

 

Extras: I like the BAD lever, some don't. It makes clearing jams and various drills much easier. Lights can be stupid expensive for no good reason. A plastic surefire in a VTAC light mount is less then $100 and works fine and it is light as well. Modern ultra compact 1 battery lights are even nicer. A lot of the 'tactical' lights are 5-10 years behind current flashlight technology. Any modern well built LED flashlight will take the recoil of .223 all day and provide better light then some of the current "hot" and "tactical" lights.

 

Charging Handle: The standard charging handle is fine but it was designed to be used with a pinch on both sides. The trouble with that is that it requires dismounting the rifle and it doesn't work so hot with optics mounted. There are a number of extended latches available which make one handed manipulation easier and faster, but they have 2 problems. The first problem is that latches are held in place by a roll pin and the entire force applied to the handle passes through that pin. With extended latches there is quite a bit of force applied and they have been known to break or "split" the rear of the charging handle. The second problem is that the milspec handle is not that robust so energetic manipulation can bend the entire handle resulting in a non working gun. There are two solutions to this problem. The first are steel charging handles which are a lot tougher and resist bending, the DPMS has a decent reputation. The second is the BCM Gunfighter charging handle which is built out a better grade of aluminum, with some extra re-enforced areas and a completely redesigned latch that places the torque forces on the end of the handle not on the roll pin. The BCM handle also comes with 3 different lengths for the latch and it is my choice for my rifles. I use the medium latch version and it is awesome.

 

Thats it. These are just my opinions on the anatomy of an AR.

[Krdshrk 3,877]

Nice info there, Vlad. Why the 1/7 over a 1/9 twist barrel though?

[Vlad G 345]

Nice info there, Vlad. Why the 1/7 over a 1/9 twist barrel though?

 

I theory it shoots heavier bullets (70gr or so) better then 1/9. You need to stabilize those bullet (though bullet profile matters here as well) and out of 20" barrel you might get away with 1/9 but out of a 16" barrel 1/7 will work better. 1/7 will also start having issues with bullets lighter then 55gr like some of the varmint bullets, but most of us don't use those. 1/8 would probably be a better compromise. 1/7 is also getting to be the standard (as it is the current twist rate in military M4 barrels) so they are easy to find. In reality, most people end up shooting the more affordable 55gr bullets anyway so it doesn't matter that much. Also it turns out that bullet profile has a lot to do this so some heavy bullets will work fine in 1/9, but its nice to have the piece of mind if you buy more expensive match ammo or handload.