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Rick_F

Springfield Armory MC Operator Finish Wear

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Hi guys.

 

I just purchased a Springfield MC Operator, and haven't even been to the range with it yet, but have been dry firing (with snap caps) quite a bit. Tonight I took a look and noticed some wear completely through the finish on the muzzle end, and also on the frame where it is making contact. Is this normal, and to be expected? For reference, my Kimber has no signs of wear in this area. It looks like the round cut in the frame isn't perfectly rounded on that side. Please look at the crappy iphone pics below. Thanks.

 

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Rick, I have the same 1911 MC Loaded (still my favorite) and have some heavy use on it from hard holsters and leather IWB's. I do have some very minor contact surface wear on mine. It has to have been drawn and holstered a few thousand times. The only places I have some wear, (and you have to really look to make sure it isn't glare) is on the left side at the very front of the slide and on the left side front edge on the rail. This is from me being a righty and inserting into the holsters. Other then these real minor spots, she looks great. I really can't see your wear from the pictures. And I don't think I could take a picture that would clearly show my wear. I literally have it on my lap looking at it. I got more schmeg in the grip diamonds then any where else.

 

FWIW, my holsters are a Blackhawk Sepra and CompTac Minotaur IWB.

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It also appears that they did not mill it down enough in that spot. It's not quite as circular as it is on the other side. Also the rear where the frame and slide meet is totally unmatched. Funny how everyone bashes Kimber, yet mine has a MUCH better fitment than the SA. The frame is tighter even after 500+ rounds.

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Yea, that ain't right. Being a Loaded, they were supposed to be more refined and have a better fit and finish. I'd take some better pictures and give SA a call ASAP. Either something isn't locked up right or something isn't milled properly.

 

Hate to ask but...did you field strip it and correctly reassemble it? I see from your toy inventory on your signature, you probably got some experience.

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I got a Sig P220 Compact SAS II and that is tighter then my SA. But then again it has only has about 200 rounds thru it. My 229 Elite is still pretty solid as far tightness, but it too is showing some begining signs of wear like my 1911. I use the same 2 style of holsters for all my pistols...its all about muscle memory.

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Yea, that ain't right. Being a Loaded, they were supposed to be more refined and have a better fit and finish. I'd take some better pictures and give SA a call ASAP. Either something isn't locked up right or something isn't milled properly.

 

Hate to ask but...did you field strip it and correctly reassemble it? I see from your toy inventory on your signature, you probably got some experience.

I've only been shooting for a year and a half, and I'm no expert by any means with 1911s. I removed the slide and replaced it. I don't think just doing that would be enough to improperly reassemble, but I may be wrong. I won't be offended if anything thinks this is a possibility. I didn't really clean or mess with anything yet, as I haven't had time to bring it to the range. I squirted a little M-Pro 7 at the recommended lube points however, and when my guns aren't in use, I keep them on the wet side.

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The SA, brand new, is about as loose as my SIG P220 after near 1k rounds thru it. It does show some signs of gouging on the frame rails though. FWIW, I was told SIGS are meant to run loose and it's fine (sent it for the action enhancement). Every 1911 guy I know that's handled it says my Kimber is tight as hell.

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Wet is good. But lube, or lack there of shouldn't produce that situation. Because it is late and everyone is sleeping (as I should be too) I can't disassembly mine and try to incorrectly reassemble it to see if the slide and frame move in harmony or make contact in a way they shouldn't.

 

When you rack it slowly, can you see it make contact? Suggestion, remove the spring and reassemble and see how it moves thru the firing cycle...gently of course.

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Wet is good. But lube, or lack there of shouldn't produce that situation. Because it is late and everyone is sleeping (as I should be too) I can't disassembly mine and try to incorrectly reassemble it to see if the slide and frame move in harmony or make contact in a way they shouldn't.

 

When you rack it slowly, can you see it make contact? Suggestion, remove the spring and reassemble and see how it moves thru the firing cycle...gently of course.

Noted- thank Wojo. I'll add some input tomorrow. Good night.

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I have heard both strong opinions on the Kimbers. Seems there is little middle ground with people. Tight and snug are good, too tight becomes binding when dirt or in extreme temps come into the equation.

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Actually I just did it. With or without the recoil spring, the slide touches when I actuate the slide. If it was stainless, I could fix it with a file in 30 seconds, but with both finishes screwed up, I'd rather SA make good on it. My fiancé did try to talk me into the USP .45. Last Brazilian gun I'll buy . . .

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"EVO X & S2000"

 

I miss my Evo X GSR.... I just got really sad.

 

Yeah I'm a little girl. I got the paddle shift lol. It's a white SE in case you see me at Bullethole.

 

 

Handgun wear adds character, it says you dont baby that gun, or do what I do, get stainless. Dont be sad, get mx-5.

 

My problem lies in the fact that it's functionally flawed, and exhibits poor craftsmanship. I can see how it's misshapen. Craftsmanship is important to me. Scratches from use, etc doesn't bother me.

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Yeah I'm a little girl. I got the paddle shift lol. It's a white SE in case you see me at Bullethole.

 

 

 

 

My problem lies in the fact that it's functionally flawed, and exhibits poor craftsmanship. I can see how it's misshapen. Craftsmanship is important to me. Scratches from use, etc doesn't bother me.

 

Rick - you have any work done to it?? Arghhh getting flashbacks of scouring the evoM forums lol

 

I just had a full turbo back, intake and custom accessport v2 tuning.

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I have an EMP 40 and Trophy Match 1911 which are both high-end SA's. Both are a work of art. The slide to frame mate is extremely tight and not wearing. The 1911 has almost 2K rounds through it and is still like new. I would call SA CS and explain the problem. They'll probably have you send it back to be repaired. The EMP 40 is dead-balls accurate for a sub-compact. I believe they have good CS from what I hear.

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Thanks Wojo. This gun is brand new and unfired. The slide is rubbing against the frame on the dust cover part from the approx. 50x I've racked the slide. It's worn completely thru the finish on both slide and frame.

 

Had a SA TRP operator full rail. IT had a similar problem. It hasn't caused issues.

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Rick - you have any work done to it?? Arghhh getting flashbacks of scouring the evoM forums lol

 

I just had a full turbo back, intake and custom accessport v2 tuning.

 

Pretty much the same. turboback, intake, intercooler pipes, Accessport, gauges, etc.

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I like your style.

Haha thanks.

 

Btw, how long does it normally take to get a response from SA? Still haven't heard an answer to my email or voicemail. I waited on hold with customer service today for my entire lunch hour, and could not get through. This is pretty frustrating, as I do value my time.

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:::::::: Update ::::::::

 

 

Today I received an email, FedEx return label, and a phone call from SA. I'm disappointed with the response time, but the call was courteous. I sent it out today, and hopefully I hear back quickly.

 

Now, for my question. If they refinish, will this pistol be in any worse shape than brand new? Is there a limit to how many times you would refinish a pistol? Based on my automobile experience, I would not own a repainted car (unless it's a custom hotrod) as the finish is never as good as the original OEM. Should I be concerned with that here?

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Rick, in their defense, CS over at SA is probably stupid busy will all the madness of late. I'm glad things are heading in the right direction. As far as the re-finish, I wouldn't sweat it. If it is jacked, they just might give you a new one. Keep us posted and good luck.

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:::::::: Update ::::::::

 

 

Today I received an email, FedEx return label, and a phone call from SA. I'm disappointed with the response time, but the call was courteous. I sent it out today, and hopefully I hear back quickly.

 

Now, for my question. If they refinish, will this pistol be in any worse shape than brand new? Is there a limit to how many times you would refinish a pistol? Based on my automobile experience, I would not own a repainted car (unless it's a custom hotrod) as the finish is never as good as the original OEM. Should I be concerned with that here?

 

If there is an issue, it's likely due to panic buying madness. As a general process, the fix should be to blast it, polish anything needing polishing, and finish. Which is basically what happened the first time.

 

Gun finishes in general are not as easy to screw up as automotive finishes.

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Rick, in their defense, CS over at SA is probably stupid busy will all the madness of late.

 

Yeah- that's completely understandable in this climate.

 

Gun finishes in general are not as easy to screw up as automotive finishes.

 

Thanks for the reassurance. Lesson learned with cars is that once it's repainted, it's never quite the same.

 

Maybe while it's there, I may ask them to checker the front strap. If I do, I'll see if they can do it like my SIG P220 elite st. It's a lot more mellow compared to the checkering on the Kimber so it doesn't bother the fiance.

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I sent an email asking about getting the front strap checkered (+/- $200), and they told me I would have to pay the price for this service, plus the price to refinish it ($80), plus return shipping ($15). If I just get the defect fixed, the refinish cost and shipping is free. I tried to explain to her that if I get the defects covered, they will be FREE, so why would I be charged for these if I pay for the checkering? I questioned the lady, and she reiterated her previous stating "checkering is not a defect."

 

She also said it will take 12 weeks, regardless of if I just get it fixed, or if I also get it checkered.

 

I'm am NOT a happy camper so far.

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In their defense, although it did take them a full week to respond to my emails, ever since their first reply, they've replied to my future emails very quickly. The woman I've been corresponding with did just leave me a courteous voicemail. I'm at work, and in this climate I cannot pick up my phone and have a conversation about a gun, so I didn't get to pick up. I understand they are very buy right now, and I just hope it's a misunderstanding.

 

Regardless, I will not accept anything more than a 2 week turnaround time, as this is brand new, and quite clearly a failure on the part of their QC team. I made it to the store 1/2 hour prior to closing, and had I actually looked it over, I probably would've eyeballed it.

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