1911 disassemble tool

[DeerSlayer 241]

Who makes a good tear down tool for the 1911? I know it makes taking the thing apart way easier. I now own two of them, and I'm still a 1911 virgin. How the hell did the soldiers in WWI field strip these things in a trench under stress, and not loose half the parts?

[henrym 19]

Who makes a good tear down tool for the 1911? I know it makes taking the thing apart way easier. I now own two of them, and I'm still a 1911 virgin. How the hell did the soldiers in WWI field strip these things in a trench under stress, and not loose half the parts?

 New 1911's are made much tighter than a soldier in the field would normally experience.

 

FWIW some of the top quality 1911's i've handled (ed brown, wilson combat, nighthawk, les baer, and christensen) have had barrel bushings that were tough, but most could be turned with a pretty firm grip.

 

The wilson combat tool is cheap and works well. Just be careful with a checkered spring cap because they tend to tear up what ever wrench you use.

[Handyman 5,682]

You can find a black plastic one almost anywhere for a few bucks. 

[DeerSlayer 241]

Cool thanks for the recommendations, I asked at the LGS and they didn't have one. I'll hit the net and order one up.

[GRIZ 3,369]

If you have a really tight barrel bushing you need a wrench to take it off. As for your second question I can't say what soldiers did in WWII but can relate what was done in Vietnam and later. GI 1911s were not that tight as henrym already mentioned. They didn't use full length guide rods which can also make it difficult. However, you didn't field strip your firearm during combat as you were too busy using shooting it. When you did perform PM on your firearm it was when your unit had stood down. If you were in a dangerous area half the unit cleaned their weapons while the other half remained ready to deal with any threat.

 

I'm pretty sure guys in WWII did the same. Procedures as I described have been used for years.

[checko 180]

Ive always used this with no issue.  

 

 

But I have a pretty well broken in and loose colt. 

 

http://www.amazon.com/1911-Plastic-Bbl-Bush-Wrench/dp/B002E6NE10/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1402349235&sr=8-1&keywords=1911+barrel+bushing+wrench

check that

[acaixguard 37]

You do NOT need a bushing wrench to field strip a 1911, no matter how tight it is. The correct way to strip a properly fitted 1911 is to remove the entire slide assembly off the receiver.

To do this, rack the slide about halfway, so that the slide release notch in the slide is even with the slide release. Hold the slide in place (still under spring tension), and pop out the slide release. Then, carefully ease the slide forward, while cupping your hand in front of the receiver. Slowly remove the slide off the receiver, using your cupped hand to catch the recoil spring and guide (assuming you don't have a full length guide rod). Use care during this step so that the recoil spring and guide don't shoot out from the bottom of the slide. Once your upper is off the receiver with the recoil guide and spring out, let the recoil spring plug fall out, move the barrel out of battery and forward a few inches, then turn the bushing by hand and remove the barrel and bushing from the front of the slide as one unit.

Putting it back together takes a little practice, as the tricky part is putting the slide assembly on while keeping the recoil plug and guide rode in place and not letting it shoot out from under.

 

This method of field stripping is more important on a custom 1911 with a match fit barrel and bushing. Using a bushing wrench to turn the bushing while a 1911 is in full battery can cause premature wear to the barrel-bushing fit.

 

By the way, this is the way that the Springfield Custom Shop instructs for disassembly of their custom 1911's.

[acaixguard 37]

Watch how Larry Vickers disassmbles his Wilson Combat Supergrade in this video, from 7:18 - 7:43

 

http://youtu.be/-hC52vKNmT0?t=7m18s

[GRIZ 3,369]

You do NOT need a bushing wrench to field strip a 1911, no matter how tight it is. The correct way to strip a properly fitted 1911 is to remove the entire slide assembly off the receiver.

I realize I'm not Larry Vickers but what you describe is another way to remove the slide from a 1911 not the "correct" way. I don't think the military or Colt was teaching the "wrong" way until the way you describe was developed. I learned the "wrong" way from the Army in 1967. I can guarantee you the Army taught Larry Vickers the "wrong" way when he attended Infantry AIT.

 

The way you describe (which I learned about 20 years ago) is fine but some may have difficulty containing the recoil spring. Neither way is right or wrong. They are just different ways.

 

You've never seen a barrel bushing so tight it required a wrench. I have on some custom 1911s.

[acaixguard 37]

I actually never said it's the WRONG way. The method I described above is the correct way to strip a FITTED 1911. A base mil-spec 1911 does not have a tightly fitted bushing/barrel, and can easily be turned by hand in battery, without any loss of fit.  Stripping a 1911 by removing the top end first is advisable for any 1911 that is fitted tight enough that it is difficult to turn the bushing by hand.

 

Also, don't make assumptions. I absolutely have seen a barrel bushing that cannot be turned by hand. I have a Springfield Professional model, which was extremely tight as delivered by the Custom Shop. Not only was it virtually impossible to turn the bushing by hand, but even racking the slide was very difficult.

 

I realize I'm not Larry Vickers but what you describe is another way to remove the slide from a 1911 not the "correct" way. I don't think the military or Colt was teaching the "wrong" way until the way you describe was developed. I learned the "wrong" way from the Army in 1967. I can guarantee you the Army taught Larry Vickers the "wrong" way when he attended Infantry AIT.

The way you describe (which I learned about 20 years ago) is fine but some may have difficulty containing the recoil spring. Neither way is right or wrong. They are just different ways.

You've never seen a barrel bushing so tight it required a wrench. I have on some custom 1911s.

 

[Polak 3]

I use my fingers with no problem.

[raz-0 1,259]

You do NOT need a bushing wrench to field strip a 1911, no matter how tight it is. The correct way to strip a properly fitted 1911 is to remove the entire slide assembly off the receiver.

To do this, rack the slide about halfway, so that the slide release notch in the slide is even with the slide release. Hold the slide in place (still under spring tension), and pop out the slide release. Then, carefully ease the slide forward, while cupping your hand in front of the receiver. Slowly remove the slide off the receiver, using your cupped hand to catch the recoil spring and guide (assuming you don't have a full length guide rod). Use care during this step so that the recoil spring and guide don't shoot out from the bottom of the slide. Once your upper is off the receiver with the recoil guide and spring out, let the recoil spring plug fall out, move the barrel out of battery and forward a few inches, then turn the bushing by hand and remove the barrel and bushing from the front of the slide as one unit.

Putting it back together takes a little practice, as the tricky part is putting the slide assembly on while keeping the recoil plug and guide rode in place and not letting it shoot out from under.

 

This method of field stripping is more important on a custom 1911 with a match fit barrel and bushing. Using a bushing wrench to turn the bushing while a 1911 is in full battery can cause premature wear to the barrel-bushing fit.

 

By the way, this is the way that the Springfield Custom Shop instructs for disassembly of their custom 1911's.

That's nice. Not 100% true mind you, but a nice theory that mostly works. I've got a custom built gun that needs a wrench even using that method.

[acaixguard 37]

How tight are your 1911s? That would strike me as overly tight if you can't turn the bushing with the spring out and the barrel as far forward as possible. If that is the case though, use the wrench when the barrel is sticking well past the bushing. The tight fit is typically in the front of the barrel, so that's where you don't want to crank the bushing around.

 

Yes, people have been removing the bushing as the first step in 1911 disassembly for years. I still maintain this is not the ideal way to do it though, especially with the number of custom 1911s out there today. The point is, there is a better way where you can not only elimininate/minimize the use of a bushing, but also preserve the match fit, so why not make a habit of using that method.

[GRIZ 3,369]

I actually never said it's the WRONG way. The method I described above is the correct way to strip a FITTED 1911. A base mil-spec 1911 does not have a tightly fitted bushing/barrel, and can easily be turned by hand in battery, without any loss of fit.  Stripping a 1911 by removing the top end first is advisable for any 1911 that is fitted tight enough that it is difficult to turn the bushing by hand.

 

Also, don't make assumptions. I absolutely have seen a barrel bushing that cannot be turned by hand. I have a Springfield Professional model, which was extremely tight as delivered by the Custom Shop. Not only was it virtually impossible to turn the bushing by hand, but even racking the slide was very difficult.

 

Your selective capitalization really doesn't add anything.

 

Okay, I never said you said wrong way.  I used wrong way to describe the way its been done for years.  You really need to look up the definition of "correct".  Properly fitted 1911 covers a broad spectrum from a $400 1911 that functions well and is reasonably accurate up to multi-thousand dollar guns.  If you think you're saving the bushing a lot of wear doing it your way, how much wear do you think you're putting on it firing off a box of hardball?  Hardly seems you are saving it that much wear your way.  You do not have to educate me on how tight a mil spec 1911 is.  Please don't act like I have no idea what I'm talking about.  I used them for years and several times on social occasions.

 

I don't know where you got the idea I was making assumptions.  The first line of your post #7 is,

 

     "You do NOT need a bushing wrench to field strip a 1911, no matter how tight it is."

 

You made sure to emphasize "NOT",  Then in post #10,

 

      "I have a Springfield Professional model, which was extremely tight as delivered by the Custom Shop. Not only was it virtually impossible to turn the bushing by hand, but even racking the slide was very difficult. 

 

So which is it?

 

You also say,

 

      "use the wrench when the barrel is sticking well past the bushing"

 

How do you do that if you have a FLGR?  Doesn't the guide rod get in the way?   Even with a standard recoil spring guide it sounds like that's a formula to give that spring extra oomph if your hand slips.

[acaixguard 37]

Your selective capitalization really doesn't add anything.

 

Okay, I never said you said wrong way. I used wrong way to describe the way its been done for years. You really need to look up the definition of "correct". Properly fitted 1911 covers a broad spectrum from a $400 1911 that functions well and is reasonably accurate up to multi-thousand dollar guns. If you think you're saving the bushing a lot of wear doing it your way, how much wear do you think you're putting on it firing off a box of hardball? Hardly seems you are saving it that much wear your way. You do not have to educate me on how tight a mil spec 1911 is. Please don't act like I have no idea what I'm talking about. I used them for years and several times on social occasions.

 

I don't know where you got the idea I was making assumptions. The first line of your post #7 is,

 

"You do NOT need a bushing wrench to field strip a 1911, no matter how tight it is."

 

You made sure to emphasize "NOT", Then in post #10,

 

"I have a Springfield Professional model, which was extremely tight as delivered by the Custom Shop. Not only was it virtually impossible to turn the bushing by hand, but even racking the slide was very difficult.

 

So which is it?

 

You also say,

 

"use the wrench when the barrel is sticking well past the bushing"

 

How do you do that if you have a FLGR? Doesn't the guide rod get in the way? Even with a standard recoil spring guide it sounds like that's a formula to give that spring extra oomph if your hand slips.

First, let me say I should've been more clear when I said I couldn't turn the bushing by hand on my Pro. What I meant was, there's pretty much no way you could turn it with the gun in battery. After taking the upper off and pushing the barrel forward, I was able to turn the bushing, albeit it took a good amount of finger strength. My Pro came with a bushing wrench, and it has yet to make contact with my gun. Pros are known to be super tight across the board, and I was still able to avoid using a wrench. Maybe this just means I have very strong fingers?

 

Turning a bushing where the bushing is fit tightest to the barrel (typically at the end) does contribute to more wear, according to the Springfield Custom Shop. Doing it a couple times may not do much, but repeatedly doing this is not good.

 

Ok, good point on the FLGR. I haven't touched a 1911 with a FLGR in over 10 years as they are purposeless for my tastes, but I digress. When I typed up my first post above, I didn't give much thought into how FLGR's work.

 

And yes, with a standard plug, you need to be careful with the spring tension as you pull the slide off. Not a big deal though, as reassembly with the plug going in as the last step requires care that you don't loose the plug under spring tension. Regardless, you need to take precautions by pointing whatever can be launched by the spring in a safe direction. When I'm pulling the slide off the receiver, I have some type of soft padding under the hand that's holding my spring assembly in place.

 

In conclusion though, I have no use for a bushing wrench. First, I won't have a 1911 with a FLGR. Second, I likely won't want a 1911 that is so tight that I can't get the bushing out by hand when the spring tension is removed and the barrel is forward. If you have a FLGR, or just feel the need to use a wrench, then rock on, but I was addressing the concern of how it is possible to get a bushing off even a tightly fit 1911.