Jump to content
NYMetsFan86

Screwed myself.. Slide release slips out of frame

Recommended Posts

So i was installing a new connector in my glock and now this happend. Usually I do all my own part installs on all my pistols. this is the first time i've becomE nervous. The slide release comes right out of the assembled pistol (maybe installed backwards). Either way i'm furious at myself, the trigger will not lock back and the slide release has slipped out. Can anyone make some suggestions as to how i can dissasemble this? As I said i'm very concerned and can do without flaming, thanks.

post-6697-0-01891500-1404002644_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lock the slide to the rear and remove the slide cover plate and striker.  You'll then be able to get the slide off the frame.  When re-installing the slide lock make sure the notch is facing to the rear.  Also looks like something's wrong with your trigger install with the dead trigger.  Removing the slide lock wouldn't cause the trigger to not engage the striker, so something else is wrong too.  How did the slide lock fall out?  Make sure the slide lock spring isn't broken and is fully in the notch it goes into in the frame.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Get the pistol over to High Exposure.  It's going to take a little "monkey fukin' " around to get the slide off.

 

He's close by you.  I could/would  do it for you but I'm way up north.

 

If you're up this way or he can't fit you in, give me a shout.

 

Bry@n also knows his shit!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You left out a part. Right above the trigger there is a slot that has a little plate that goes up and down. That is what locks the slide from coming off. You should not see daylight thru the side.

This is the only thing that I am aware of because I'm pretty sure I installed that part backwards now it just slips out through the other side once I get the slide off, I can correct this issue as I was able to speak to a Glock armorer on the phone if I can get the slide plate of this evening I'd have a better chance of solving this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The slide lock has a slot that the barrel grabs. Put it in facing rearward. Also, there is a spring below it that keeps it tight against the top to prevent it from falling out.

 

Nevermind, Russell nailed it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lock the slide to the rear and remove the slide cover plate and striker.  You'll then be able to get the slide off the frame.  When re-installing the slide lock make sure the notch is facing to the rear.  Also looks like something's wrong with your trigger install with the dead trigger.  Removing the slide lock wouldn't cause the trigger to not engage the striker, so something else is wrong too.  How did the slide lock fall out?  Make sure the slide lock spring isn't broken and is fully in the notch it goes into in the frame.

 

 

I spoke with him last night and recommended the same thing. I believe it was his first time doing this to a glock, so it may be an issue for him to take the backing plate off. 

 

If High Exposure is closer and can help you out, it may be easier for you to meet with him.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is the only thing that I am aware of because I'm pretty sure I installed that part backwards now it just slips out through the other side once I get the slide off, I can correct this issue as I was able to speak to a Glock armorer on the phone if I can get the slide plate of this evening I'd have a better chance of solving this

 

Here's how to remove the slide cover plate in order to get the slide off the frame:  http://www.glockmeister.com/FiringPinReplacement.asp.  Even if you installed the slide lock backwards it shouldn't just slide right out of the frame.  When re-installing it make sure the slide lock spring goes into the notch in the bottom of the slide lock.  You need to hold down the slide lock spring while installing the slide lock.

 

Take it to a local Glock armorer like HE so he can look it over and make sure everything's installed correctly.  I'd be happy to do it if I were closer to you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok slide plate has been removed and the slide a is free from the frame. I assume its time to watch every HD video I can find on the strip and reassemble. Interestingly enough, with just the frame alone pushing the trigger bar forward. The trigger seems to a work just fine. I can take another video of need be

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

UPDATE....

 

Ok done deal seems to function fine. Here was the issue. Make sure your connector does not get bent inward. It was bent and not forcing outward pressure on the trigger bar. Problem solved..I was feeling saucy so I added the extended slide release. Extended mag release, ultimAte trigger stop, 6lb trigger spring and of course the ghost 3.5 connector. Awesome! I am spiked. Thank you guys for all your awesome input!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.



  • olight.jpg

    Use Promo Code "NJGF10" for 10% Off Regular Items

  • Supporting Vendors

  • Latest Topics

  • Posts

    • We never let then inside.  Last re-evaluation was 6-7 years ago, wife politely told him that he was welcome to look around the property and he could look in the windows. He saw two white resin chairs in the basement and told her that this constituted a finished basement. And everything in the basement is bare concrete/ cinder block, and mechanical systems. Nothing finished about it. Ultimately he relented and I'm sure that was a ploy to coerce us to allow him in
    • I use an Alien Gear cloak tuck (IWB) with my Shield.  Neoprene back - in the summer it does feel warm but doesn't rub or chafe.   https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-iwb-holster.html Could also go with the shapeshift as it has multiple options - OWB/IWB, Appendix... https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-shapeshift-modular-holster-system.html
    • The  12-1 compression ratio L88 is long gone. This is GM's updated version. it might be  pump gas 10-1 engine The L88 was a aluminum head  cast iron block engine with a nasty solid lifter cam. the  ZL1 was a all aluminum  12 or 13-1 compression ratio engine with the best forged internal parts at the time and had a even nastier solid lifter cam 
    • I like my regular carry holster.  OWB leather with belt slots.  I've been carrying for over a year and it was comfortable and I hardly even noticed it.  I carry (usually) a Ruger LCP .380 - light, convenient, tiny. But...today I ended up taking it off an leaving it home after a few hours. I cut down a big maple tree a few days ago and I spent 3/4 of today loading and unloading firewood into the back of my truck and a trailer.  It was a warm day, I was dirty, tired, sweaty, and my holster was rubbing against my side.  The leather and exposed metal snap was no longer comfortable. I'm thinking about adding a layer of something to that part of the holster to soften the contact.  Anything insulating will make it worse.  I don't want a sweaty, hotter holster against my skin.  I'm imagining something thin, breathable, that won't absorb sweat, and softer than leather, metal snaps, and rivets.   But I have no idea what would work. I'm hoping somebody else has already figured this out and I can just do what they did. Any suggestions appreciated.
    • Check the primers on the ammo you didn't shoot yet. Are they fully seated? If the primer is not just below flush with the back of the case, the first hit can seat it better then the second hit ignites it. 
×
×
  • Create New...