Driveway sealing question.

[Barms 98]

So it's long overdue to do driveway. I have many many cracks. Some small some about 1/2 inch wide. Last time I did it 5 years ago I spent many back breaking hours doing my best to fill up the cracks with various tubes/caulk types of pavement repair stuff to fill the voids as best I could. Good prep job for the sealer. I'd say all that prep work paid off the driveway looked pretty darn smooth after it was done (of course just cosmetic).

 

I'm cringing about doing all that prep again, but yet I just can't get myself to skip that step and just roll out the sealer I'm too anal about my DIY work.

 

So the question is: is there not some sort of sand I could just sweep into the cracks to level out the voids and then apply the sealer over? Like if it was pavers you sweep that cement sand into the joints. Is there no product because the sealant would not adhere to the sand?

 

If I do it again I will use those stix that melt for the big ones and I guess the tubes of goo for the small ones but man I got many "spiderweb' groupings of voids to fill I'm dreading it.

 

I would just love one type of roll out to fill voids, then just squeegee the topcoat over that.

[Kevin125 4,772]

My driveway is 12 ft wide by 90 feet... Then opens to a 50 ft deep by 30 ft wide apron. Roughly. Friend had Driveway Armor do theirs. Turned out fine. They quoted $369 for mine. I thought that wasn't a bad price. Haven't done it yet.

 

I have some oil spots. SUV is leaking a bit. I'm doing the degreasing. Working pretty well. No major cracks, but starting to decay. So needs a coating.

 

Not sure sand is a good idea. What ever you use has to bond with that sand completely. If not, it may flake off if theres pockets of just sand underneath.

 

My sense is some sort of thick filler is best. Then a coat. Just doing a coat probably won't restore those spider cracks. Be like painting cracked drywall if the cracks are more than hairline.

 

Edit: thought of something, but i doubt ever used on asphalt. So bonding is a question.

 

That polymer sand used on paver walkways and steps. Stuff seems to get as hard as concrete. It may leave you will a solid footing to seal. But I'm not sure if it would any easier to work with than the stuff intended for asphalt.

 

And i don't if it would be prone to break up like grout. If it expands and contract at different rates that asphalt.... Thats likely not good.

[bhunted 887]

....or....do like my mother did years ago. Have it recapped with new asphalt. They put on anew layer about and inch or two. Roll it out, etc. It's been several years and it still looks brand new. They let it set for a year then reseal it. Of course, not as cheap.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Barms 98]

"My sense is some sort of thick filler is best. Then a coat. Just doing a coat probably won't restore those spider cracks. Be like painting cracked drywall if the cracks are more than hairline."

 

The above is the issue. Looking for suggestions. The "thick filler" is grueling to apply. Like squeezing toothpaste for hours.

[Howard 538]

Well with the price of oil down, now might be the time to repave.  Mine was in fairly bad shape and I thought about having it done last year.  The quotes were all well over $6,000.  I had it done a month or so ago and the price had dropped to about $4,000.  That includes ripping out two layers of asphalt that were there, new base and paving.  I know I could have put another layer on top cheaper, but that would have raised the level too high and the first over pave was not done well and water was getting between the two old layers.

[CMJeepster 2,780]

If you're going to do it, do it right.  Mine way the original 1979 driveway and had taken a lot of abuse.  I had it ripped up and replaced.

[Kevin125 4,772]

If you can spare the expense, and the driveway is bad...or looks like it will just get worse, repaving by a good company may be best. If its coming apart, water is getting in and busting it up in the winter. You may be fighting a losing battle and throwing away the money and time used to fill and seal it.

 

If i was selling in a couple of years, I'd wait until just before putting it on the market. If I was staying, it would come down to a personal budget question. Its a driveway. Cars sit on it. If its not a trip hazard and you've got better things to do with the cash, fix it up a little and replace it later.

 

Some sealers are a little thicker than others. Maybe do a brushed on thick coat on your spider cracks. Let it dry then coat the whole think again. Might be enough to fill in the spider cracks and keep water from getting in a fracturing it this winter. The big cracks will need that goop though.

 

I knows. It sucks....

 

If money is no object, consider your choices. Concrete, sealed pavers over a heavily packed base, or asphalt.

 

We're about 5 years from where you're at. So thinking about some of the same stuff. Good luck. Let us know what you end up doing.

[AlDente67 563]

I just had mine repaved about a month ago.  I think the cost was around $1.80 per square foot, something like that.  You might find better prices.  This was for a 3-inch top over existing, plus a seal coat after curing.  Some serious equipment rolled up for the job, and they were done in about 2 hours.  Nice job, but that's the end of topping off.  The next one will be a complete tear-down, else it will stick up like a highway overpass.

 

I tried the asphalt filler in the spiderweb cracks, followed by the Home Depot 'airport grade' sealant.  Took me all day with a trowel, and I would swear a year later it looked as if I never bothered.  So much for that 15 year warranty.

 

I didn't have any depressions, just the cracking.  I was told that depressions meant the underlayment was shot.  So we'll see how it holds up.

 

My neighbor had the top-off done about 5 years ago when he came across a commercial paving job nearby.  They had extra asphalt and agreed to swing by and use it up.  He saved about a grand that way, but stumbling on a commercial parking lot job is not something you see every day.

[CMJeepster 2,780]

If the cracks are big enough, any thoughts about packing them with a material like caulk backing (pool noodle-like material) and sealing over top of that? How about chinking with rope like an old wooden hulled ship, then sealing over that?

[AlDente67 563]

If the cracks are big enough, any thoughts about packing them with a material like caulk backing (pool noodle-like material) and sealing over top of that? How about chinking with rope like an old wooden hulled ship, then sealing over that?

 

 

That I'd like to see, lol.

 

Caulk backing isn't meant for freeze/thaw.  That's what screws up every driveway.

[CMJeepster 2,780]

Then why is it used on building envelopes?

[Barms 98]

If you're gonna commit to asses and elbows with a rope type you might as well use the melt stix. Same work process.

 

I was fantasizing about a sweep in application.

 

I know it won't last. I just want to lipstick the pig before the topcoat

[Oakridgefirearms 224]

My driveway is 12 ft wide by 90 feet... Then opens to a 50 ft deep by 30 ft wide apron. Roughly. Friend had Driveway Armor do theirs. Turned out fine. They quoted $369 for mine. I thought that wasn't a bad price. Haven't done it yet.

 

I have some oil spots. SUV is leaking a bit. I'm doing the degreasing. Working pretty well. No major cracks, but starting to decay. So needs a coating.

 

Not sure sand is a good idea. What ever you use has to bond with that sand completely. If not, it may flake off if theres pockets of just sand underneath.

 

My sense is some sort of thick filler is best. Then a coat. Just doing a coat probably won't restore those spider cracks. Be like painting cracked drywall if the cracks are more than hairline.

 

Edit: thought of something, but i doubt ever used on asphalt. So bonding is a question.

 

That polymer sand used on paver walkways and steps. Stuff seems to get as hard as concrete. It may leave you will a solid footing to seal. But I'm not sure if it would any easier to work with than the stuff intended for asphalt.

 

And i don't if it would be prone to break up like grout. If it expands and contract at different rates that asphalt.... Thats likely not good.

Polymeric paver joint sand is designed to stay flexible and will not flake out like grout or mortar. It's not really designed for asphalt applications and the polymer may react with the asphalt.

[mipafox 438]

What's wrong with cold patch? Beat it in with the butt of your rifle or a 5 lbm hand sledge.

 

If you need more volume than that start with QP, it has fines for compaction.

 

If your concrete is breaking up add 5% bentonite to a non-shrink grout. But I don't think I would use that with ashpalt. I've never done any real asphalt work.

[Oakridgefirearms 224]

What's wrong with cold patch? Beat it in with the butt of your rifle or a 5 lbm hand sledge. If you need more volume than that start with QP, it has fines for compaction. If your concrete is breaking up add 5% bentonite to a non-shrink grout. But I don't think I would use that with ashpalt. I've never done any real asphalt work.

You live in PA - that's Modified to you pal..............