Malice4you

@Drew_S They will provide a shotgun if you do not have one. I would expect these to be 12ga, maybe 20ga or even possibly a .410, but 12ga is certain. If you are bringing your own, I'd bring a field style 12ga or 20ga if possible. I dunno how they'd feel about an 18" home defense shotgun or shockwave... They provide ammo, so if you have a strange caliber shotgun, you might have an issue. Not sure that they want you bringing ammo, but if it is your only gun and don't want to use theirs, might not hurt to bring 5 or 10 rounds of 7.5 / 8 / 9 birdshot and keep it separate in your car, and ask one of the instructors before bringing the ammo (and gun) out. You don't have to shoot a rifle. All firearms are covered under shotguns these days. You'll be observed for safe handling and being aware of headstamp and use of safety. Hitting targets is honestly not important, though if you can't hit those ground targets, I'd hope you work on that before going out in the field.

I have 2 bins. Fresh/charged batteries stay in one. Depleted stay in the second. When i have 2 or more in need of recharging, I do so. Lithium rechargables should have 40-60% charge left after 6 months of sitting without any drain/load, far as i know. Like I said, stuff I leave around with a battery in it will still work months later. I do have a reminder on the phone to charge infrequently used devices every 4-6 months. And if you get "pre-charged" AA or other NiMH batteries, those have a lithium-like 6-12 month charge capacity if unused. If i were going thru 1 cr123 a year, $2.50 is not a big deal. When my 3 or four year old $8 battery is still going strong, having been recharged at least a couple dozen times, i would have spent $40+ on throwaways for just one flashlight. I have 11+ 3v flashlights, so that each is used a bit less, but does not make sense to not use rcr123s/17670/18650 when the costs are so much lower over the long run. Like I said, i have 9+ year old batteries that still run...a lot shorter runtime sure, but still work for some needs. Easily have 100+ recharges on them, and probably cost me $4 a battery.

I love my O-Lights, and I own 6 or 7 right now, plus 3 or 4 I have given as gifts. All still running 100%, and some are run daily and get dropped, run for long periods, and just plain used. The weapon-mounted ones have withstood plenty of 12ga from 3 1/2" magnums through target loads, the one on the .223 has stayed mounted through virtually every round I've put downrange with that gun...and show no worse for the wear. Only thing I gotta figure out is how best to clean the lens on my M20 from all that shotgun shooting...it's never quite clean enough for my tastes...

Well THAT is why...! Sorry, nothing constructive to add. I read the quoted bit and thought there is no better way to gain an advantage over someone, short of giving them ammo that jams the gun up so badly that you have to throw it over a wall a couple times...

I currently wear Citizen or Skagen watches. Nice enough watches, but I want just time and date - no need for anything further. I have been meaning to get a g shock or something else, but that's always a low priority for me... I will mention this...because there are rings being made out of tungsten carbide, be careful if that ring is worn on your non-watch hand. I have shattered the crystal on 2 watches, one in the middle of the night so I have no idea what happened, and one on a cheap watch which already had a crack which became a shattered mess after getting hit by the ring. Both times, I was wearing a tungsten carbide ring with a 45° beveled edge, which is apparently sharp enough to take out the crystal if struck the right (wrong) way.

I run rechargeable CR123s (aka 16340 or RCR123), 17670, and 18650 batteries in most of my flashlights which take 3v batteries (total of somewhere around 25 batteries). Currently, the only light with legit Surefire 123s is the Streamlight TLR-1s, since they seem to specify 3.0v very explicitly, and I'd rather not damage it as I have not seen enough feedback from other users. I have and HIGHLY recommend EagleTac RCR123s and 18650s, and have had very good luck with Tenergy 3.0V RCR123s. I have had so/so luck with UltraFire RCR123s and 18650s - 3 early failures, likely due to the protection circuit failing (guessing that, due to 0.0v output). Olight RCR123s are really wimpy, with way less runtime than I would expect of them based on mAh rating and price. However, things are never quite so easy. Most RCR123s are rated at 3.7v under load, and charge up to around 4.2v on a fresh charge, which can damage things not designed for them (especially when using multiples) - do not use them in things with an actual filament bulb. There are 3V RCR123 batteries out there, but not all chargers will work with the 3.0v batteries, so you gotta use the cheap charger that usually comes with them. The 3v batteries will usually be around 3.5-3.7 volts on a fresh charge. 17670 and 18650 batteries are often used in laptop battery packs. They usually have substantially higher power densities than two RCR123s would have. You can often buy the designed-for-laptop cells, or buy made-for-flashlight types with the button on the + side. Most flashlights won't care about using either because of spring loading. Again, the light needs to have been designed for using a 17670/18650, but if it was, I highly recommend using them over 123s if you have a 2x 123 light. I use a Nitecore i4 quad charger, which charges all the above (except 3.0v RCR123s). Most of my batteries are what is known as "protected" cells, meaning there is a shutoff circuit on the battery to prevent over-discharge (under the rated voltage). This means the battery will either cut out at unsafe voltages, or go into lower power mode, depending on the battery. Self discharge has been very low, I can easily leave a battery in a light for 6+ months without checking it and know it will still work. I use my lights often, and I can usually get multiple weeks of use at various power levels out of them before needing to put in a fresh battery. I have had zero issues with these batteries on guns, including hundreds of rounds of shotgun from target loads through 3 1/2" magnum buckshot, as well as .223 rifle rounds. Quality RCR123s will run you around $8 per, and a decent charger will run you around $20. That said, I am only now starting to consider getting rid of some 9+ year old batteries, so I would easily have spent hundreds of dollars on regular lithium 123s if I used them at the same rate I use my RCRs, and many of the older batteries were significantly less than $8 per cell. You can find EagleTac RCR123s on ebay and Amazon, and likely same for the Nitecore charger.

Dunno your budget or if you're looking to go crazy.... Kidd makes some apparently high end receivers. I have not owned any (or a 10/22 yet for that matter), but they come up on rimfirecenteral enough that I have heard of them many a time. However, a stripped receiver will end up running you at least as much as a whole rifle on sale would... http://www.coolguyguns.com/RECEIVERS_c_25.html Volquartsen also apparently makes one, and a quick search turned up a 'Tactical Solutions X-Ring 10/22 Receiver' and a 'Grand Master Action' as well. Never heard of the last two, but if I were interested in doing a serious build from scratch, I'd be at least start looking at the Kidd or Volquartsen. And if you are looking for more info on anything 10/22, this is likely where you will find it, or find someone who knows where to find it.. https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/index.php

https://earth.nullschool.net/#current/wind/surface/level/orthographic=-49.90,27.98,1083 I always forget the specifics of what level of winds this map is, but even without knowing anything about it at all, it is still something really cool to just look at and play with (it is zoomable and movable) It is seemingly data/processor intensive, so be aware, let it load before making too many major zooms/movements on a slower device like a phone.

Had an ex who loved my Sig 1911 TTT in .45, but racking the slides on anything other than my .22 pistols was difficult most of the time for her, including that 1911. Another ex shot my P226 9mm and had some issues racking the slide. Both took more than one attempt to rack a slide more than once. It is possible that a slightly lighter spring (which will increase wear and tear) might alleviate some of this issue for some people, but reliability would need to be tested. Not knowing her age, hand size, strength, arthritis/etc, I won't really be of much help suggesting anything specific. What I will say is have her handle a lot of models. Nothing beats getting a real feel for the pistol and knowing how it fits - or does not fit. Having her use the important controls may rule out some pistols. Having her hold the pistol out in a shooting position may rule out others due to weight. Having her rack the slide on a semi auto may lead her to rule out semis completely. It needs to be something she can work, and will want to shoot, for it to be worth anything as a home defense gun. I'd rather she get a .22 magnum that she can safely and comfortably operate than a 9mm she never wants to practice with because (reasons). Once she has narrowed things down, either rent those models, and/or post up on the forums looking for someone who has one if they would mind letting you run a box or two of ammo through it. Keeping in mind many range rentals are gonna be dirty and gritty, so basing trigger pull off one may not be ideal, but it'll give her an idea how it shoots, and she shoots with it, plus things like slide manipulation and use of controls. Once she has decided on the one, you can have a local FFL order one (if they don't already have what you want), or if it is a harder to find model, use a place like gunbroker to buy it, and find a local FFL willing to accept it and transfer it to you - which will usually cost between $30-50. Keep in mind that if the model ships with >10rd mags, they will either need to be modified by the receiving FFL (discuss the fees and if they are able to do this at all) or not transferred to you. Some sellers won't ship stuff to NJ (including NJ legal items, sadly) or will not include "high capacity" mags with the purchase, so read fine print.

Oh, I remember those simple days of one component hooked up...back when I didn't need a component map to plan out which input/output I could use and retain use of all my other AV equipment... No one ever gives you enough HDMI ports, optical ports, or coax digital ports. Sounds like you got this covered. I have two receivers hooked to my comcast box, one via optical, one via rca, if memory serves me. The TV gets video through hdmi. I would prefer this over going through the tv to optical out to receiver.

Closest to an update we have for the time being. In case you missed it from the last page.

Without owning any .308s, I would immediately reply FGMM as well, even without knowing distance you are shooting at and twist rate. I would hazard a guess that even the "wrong" FGMM weight will still be vastly superior to most other cheaper ammos accuracy, as it should be at around $1/shot. In my .223 precision gun, Hornady superperformance match 75gr was vastly superior to generic 55gr bulk ammo, but my .223 likes 69gr FGMM better. I have been meaning to try some Black Hills match ammo, but have yet to get some. If it is as good as most online reviews seem to indicate, might be a worthwhile alternative for those of us not reloading yet. Just don't mix your match brass with bulk ammo brass.

Excited to see the progress on this. And perhaps someday buy a precision gun built up by ya, since the chances of me doing the whole ffl 07 and build my own are quite low...

Long day yesterday. Would need google glasses to do that, probably. Or just yell out "Control Plus!" and have an intern come running with a magnifying glass.

If you get booted/towed/ticketed, you shouldn't have parked there. Captain Hindsight away! Look for signs and use judgement would be my advice, but i only use wmas for target shooting, not hunting.

Congrats! Happy for ya!

Should work in firefox and chrome. Not sure about IE or salfari, but likely will. If not, look for zoom in the menus for the correct keyboard shortcut. And if you go too far, CTRL - or CTRL 0 should make things smaller and bring you back to original size.

Finding the right ammo will make a difference. Obviously technique is critical, but an expert shooter will be hampered by sub-optimal ammo. Bulk .223 gets me at best 2.5-3+" groups at 100yds. My gun liked 75gr hornady match ammo enough to shrink that to 1" groups. Moved to FGMM 69gr, down to sub .75". Give my rifle to someone who is really skilled, and I would love to see what it is capable of. I do these groups, then manage to screw up one shot and turn a .3" group into a 1.3" group or something equally annoying and embarassing. Make sure you load that bipod, make sure you are getting to the same spot on the gun consistently, and remember to focus on breathing; combine that with better ammo and youll see groups that make target 4s group look bad.

Put the nest into a box and send it to someone you dislike. Mark the outside of the box as indicated here:

@PK90 thanks, did not know that. When I got mine, I read original ones had a tiny amount of sound dampening and that was why. I read it on the internets, so it must be true, right? @revenger I totally agree that it would be great if firearms could be quieter for everyone. However, I believe anything on the gun itself modifying the sound level is the problem, as no individual or manufacturer wants to deal with the whole going to jail for violating NFA laws. I am sure that the laws are intentionally broad and vague for a reason. I shoot a lot of subsonic .22s, and volume of those is noticably quieter than standard .22s. I have never fired a 147gr 9mm, but my understanding is it would be quieter. I don't think I have ever fired a supersonic .45, subsonics don't seem too quiet, but maybe they are by comparison. Until HPA is passed/NFA repealed, and/or states like NJ are bitchslapped by courts, I feel like we will be hampered on development of quieter gun technologies. Because legislators get all their gun knowledge from Hollywood, and a gun becomes absolutely silent when using a suppressor, and we are all already deadly killers just waiting to go on sprees with silent fully semi automatic assault rifles with shoulder things that go up. I like that suppressors are required (?, read on internet) in some parts of the world so there is less noise to disturb others or harm the shooter's hearing. I wish NJ and the US were so progressive (well, strongly suggested instead of required).

I was thinking bolt action rifle with detachable mag, also legal about anywhere. I feel for the likely needs of a trunk gun, it would be an acceptable answer. Though follow up shots are slower than an AR or other semi auto.

Having done the exact same thing as OP, with the difference being this was in a sedan's trunk, I typically used a second pouch of a small bag to hold the ammo. I had no pockets on the super cheap gun bag i used, otherwise I would have used those. I attached industrial strength velcro patches to the stock to hold velcro backed 5 shell holders for extra ammo and to carry the ammo so it wasnt just loose in the bag. During transport, the shotgun had zero ammo on or in it, it was all kept in the other bag. I even had the doomsday scenario of getting into an accident and cop seeing the gun bag. I am posting from home, not a prison cell. The thing I did not like about doing this was loading a shotgun would take longer than loading a preloaded mag, so I would prefer a rifle or PCC. I want a sub2k for this exact scenario.

Would that not just be part of the "weapon" then? And with the intent of reducing noise, too. Pretty much as I see it, as soon as you are adding anything that could have any noise reduction, you are on thin ice. The GSG5 was recalled because the mock suppressor was found to reduce sound by a dB or two (federal, not NJ). Even if one could argue it was a compensator (for all the recoil of those .22s), if it did make it quieter, you run into federal and state laws that could screw you.

Thanks for the kind words. I expected this project to turn out a lot worse than it did, so I am really happy. It has zero slop or play, so I don't know how I managed that by hand. Usually when I take on such a project, there is some kind of massive gap somewhere, lots of play, or some other annoyance like that. And after all the work, I covered it paint and it looks like it was always there... though I did a good job matching the existing paintjob...

So a week and a half ago, I came across a thread on another forum about replacing a broken plastic trigger guard with a brass one made out of a solid block. I have an airsoft gun which had a trigger guard which also houses one of the action screws. Unfortunately, that housing had broken in half, so it was a bit loose. I wanted to make it a bit sturdier, and glue wasn't gonna cut it. That thread got me to do a little research, and I ended up ordering a block of 6061 T6511 aluminum measuring 5/8" x 2" x 4" for about $7. Now, unfortunately I did not take a photo of the raw block, but I did start taking a couple pictures of my progress. I used a drill press, hand drill, various drill bits, various sanding bits, various milling bits, Dremel, cutoff wheels, hacksaw, coping saw, various files, and probably a bunch of other stuff I have already forgotten. Oh, and most important - vacuum for all that dust and filings...uggg...everywhere... I managed to break a number of cheap drill bits, and even bent some good ones. And some of those cheap ones managed to wedge themselves in the aluminum, so that was real fun working around that and getting them out. It screwed up things on the bottom of the trigger guard, but it is what it is. It is also still so much stronger than the original piece ever could have been, so I am hardly worried. A sub-1mm thick piece I sawed off won't even bend. I am pleased to say that it turned out great and I couldn't be happier with it. If I'd had access to a CNC or other real milling machines, I'd have done it better/cleaner and a hell of a lot faster, but I'm still happy.