10X

I belonged to Citizen's for many years, until I moved out of the area. I liked it a lot. The pistol/smallbore rifle ranges are it's best assets...one indoor with movable target carriers for any range out to 25 yards, the other indoor with turning targets fixed at 25 yards (but you can move up on that line). The outdoor range has turning targets at 25 yards, and fixed at 50 yards. They have one outdoor trap house; unfortunately, their rifle range got neutered during battles with the neighbors. First the 200 yard line was shut down, followed a couple of years later by the open 100 yard line. They now have a couple of concrete pipes to fire through from 100 yards. At least, that was the status when I was last there a couple of years ago.

If I thought you looked anything like your avatar, I'd be there in a heartbeat...

Too risky! Give them to me, and I'll dispose of them for you!

Dunkelbergers in Stroudbsburg, PA had large magnum rifle primers on Sat. No standard, and no pistol primers.

I made the drive over this morning. Was looking for an AR upper (ideally already NJ compliant) but struck out on that. Lots of complete rifles, starting at about $900 and going up from there. Some lowers, lots of mags for $25, but only a handful of 10 rounders (also $25)--no 15's at all. .223 ammo (brass) started at $12 for PMC or UMC, but most was higher. .45 started about $25 The only primers I saw were some Wolf's for $40. One vendor had a lot of powder (most about $28/lb) with good pricing on 8 lb jugs--I saw green dot and red dot for about $125/8. He also had some once-fired brass in a few cals, and assorted bullets. .22 LR remained scarce. A few optimistic folks were trying to sell bricks for north of $50, and I saw a stack of Rem Thunderbolt marked $75. There was one unexpected bargain. One table had a lot of Eley Tenex for $10/50. That's not plinking ammo-it's one of the gold standards for top-end target ammo, and a year ago Tenex was closer to $17 through retail channels. I stopped at Dunkelbergers on the way home. $40 bricks of .22 with a fair amount in stock (American Eagle, Thunderbolt, Federal value packs) and quite a bit of powder at $22-28/lb. The only primers they had today were CCI large mag rifle, and 209 shotshell.

Some good suggestions here already. I buy the expensive commercial snapcaps and use them so much I manage to wear them out. Another option for infrequent use is to use an empty casing, and after a couple of snaps use another one. I think a spent primer still offers some cushioning for a few more hits, though I don't much like the idea of chambering and dropping the hammer on anything brass in the house.

The analysis chart can be found here: http://www.bullseyepistol.com/training.htm Remember, this is to analyze stray shots that are significantly outside of the group you are shooting--it's not for explaining why your group isn't centered in the bullseye. That's a sight adjustment issue. The chart also assumes you are shooting one-handed. A two hand grip adds stability, but can also add other ways to screw up...

Nice! My hat is off to the Albany Police Officer's Union. That letter is well reasoned and nicely written. It should be run verbatim in the NY Times (they'd never publish it; would probably have to run as an ad. I'll contribute, if a collection is taken up to publish!)

You're not the only one. I sold my rock tumbler this year, and couldn't be happier with a vibratory tumbler with dry media and an occasional touch of brass polish. I'll never go back. Not saying wet tumblers don't do a spectacular job, but what a pain!

Your skill and the inherent accuracy of the firearm are reflected in how small the groups are (precision). Where the groups are (accuracy) is a function of the sights, and to a small extent the load and the grip ergonomics of the person holding the gun. In other words, if you are shooting small groups, you are doing your part successfully. If the groups aren't centered, it's always the gun's fault, and the sights will need adjusting.

Using .45 target loads as an example, and current inflated prices for components (but perhaps not accounting for all of the driving now required to find those components): Primers $2 for 50 Powder $1 for 50 Bullets $4.50 for 50 So, .45 light target loads are about $7.50 a box, using cast bullets. 38 or 9 mm would be a little cheaper. Plated bullets will increase the cost, some jacketed bullets will increase the cost significantly. I'm not factoring in cost of brass--I either use found brass for plinking, or matched brass from factory ammo I've bought in the past for target--with light loads, it lasts for many cycles. Progressive presses are the only way to go if you load a lot. On a Dillon 550, which is towards the bottom of the Dillon product line, but still very, very highly recommended, 100 rounds takes about 15 minutes to load, if the press is already set up. On a single stage press, I dunno--probably well over an hour.

Idaho (my native state) will issue to non-residents. A whopping $20 for 5 years. I'm not sure if you can apply by mail, though.

When I was a kid, Mom would use one to cook things like parsnips and turnips. So yes, the 8-year-old me was ahead of the curve in thinking pressure cookers should be banned!

It's a shotgun. Shooting it on an indoor range is just wrong... Find the nearest trap field, get some cheap target loads (they're about the only ammo that is easy to find right now), and go have fun! I'm not sure which field is closest to you, but most are very accommodating of beginners. If they're not busy, you can ask that they set the thrower to throw only straightaways until you get the hang of them, then you can start working on the random angles.

The prosecutor will argue that if they both exist on the same planet (or possibly adjacent planets), you are in violation.

TFR (temporary flight restriction) below 3000' already in place over the bomb site, but that's standard procedure--keeps the news helicopters from colliding with each other.

My son's college dorm is five blocks away from the closer of the two blasts. He's fine. Wish the same could be said for everyone else...

Not sure why the Philly PD thought they needed 1357 M16's, but that question aside, I'm surprised they only lost one over the past 4-5 years. Not excusing it, but cynical me would have predicted a lot more than that would have walked off.

At least somebody is able to get ammo...

Maybe--might depend on the dealer. I've since learned that Mastodon will accept delivery, let the buyer select the stock length, and pin it(for $15) before handing it over, which covers everything I was asking about.

That's called a suicide plug, which pretty well explains why you won't find one on Amazon. Screw up by plugging it into the generator first, and the exposed ends of the male plug at the other end of the cord are live. Screw up by not throwing the main breaker before back feeding, and you put the linemen trying to restore power to your neighborhood at risk as they work on lines that are supposed to be dead... Don't get me wrong, I have no respect for towns that require permits for every little thing, primarily as a source of revenue--and I'm not an electrician, so this doesn't affect my livelihood either way--but powering your house by generator is one of those things you want to get right if you're going to do it. The good news is its fairly easy and not too expensive to do it yourself. The transfer switches Walt referenced are a couple hundred bucks, and let you put a nice weatherized receptacle on the outside of the house into which you plug the generator. Check out the Reliance Controls website; it has both installation instructions and video so you can see what's involved. Simpler and cheaper still is the interlock switch; a simple sliding plate that won't let you throw on the generator breakers unless the main breaker is off. Both meet code requirements. (edit--I see others type faster than I do; much of this info has already shown up in the thread)

Has anyone bought a lower with adjustable stock through an FFL in central or North Jersey, and either been allowed to take it home to pin, or the dealer was able to pin it on-site? Recommendations on who to use? If the dealer is going to pin it, I'd want to first drop by and select the length at which the stock must be pinned. I want to avoid a scenario where the lower arrives in NJ, and the FFL holder won't release it, and won't pin it--insisting on another transfer to a dealer who will.

I've read the threads on pinning collapsible stocks, and understand how to do it. My question is, if I order a lower receiver with a collapsible stock, is the FFL holder who does the transfer likely to let me take it home to pin? Or would the transfer have to go through an FFL who will pin it before it leaves the premises? I don't yet own an upper receiver, so I wouldn't have the parts to assemble a non-compliant rifle...but I'm not sure that would appease NJ or the FFL holder...

There is a weight limit on ammo, but it seems to vary by airline. It often involves a '5', but I've seen 5 boxes, 500 rounds, 5 lbs, 5 kilos... You can generally find the airline limits by reading through the fine print on the airline's web page(s) on baggage. I'd suggest printing out a copy of the policy and bringing it with you; airline and TSA employees won't necessarily know the rules, and you don't want them making up their own. As stated before, factory packaging (or equivalent, like plastic MTM boxes), checked baggage only, and I'd lock it. I think a TSA compliant lock is ok for ammo only, while for firearms they want a lock for which the TSA doesn't have master keys.

Even if legal, I think a .177 air rifle is woefully underpowered for woodchucks.