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Nick T

AR Anatomy

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That might be true, and I have a .22 conversion, but honestly I never tested for accuracy that much. I mostly use it to practice close range drills, weapon mount to the shoulder, transitions, etc so for me pinpoint accuracy with a .22 conversion is not that critical. It just needs to run.

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I've added the following to my bits guide:

 

 

Charging Handle: The standard charging handle is fine but it was designed to be used with a pinch on both sides. The trouble with that is that it requires dismounting the rifle and it doesn't work so hot with optics mounted. There are a number of extended latches available which make one handed manipulation easier and faster, but they have 2 problems. The first problem is that latches are held in place by a roll pin and the entire force applied to the handle passes through that pin. With extended latches there is quite a bit of force applied and they have been known to break or "split" the rear of the charging handle. The second problem is that the milspec handle is not that robust so energetic manipulation can bend the entire handle resulting in a non working gun. There are two solutions to this problem. The first are steel charging handles which are a lot tougher and resist bending, the DPMS has a decent reputation. The second is the BCM Gunfighter charging handle which is built out a better grade of aluminum, with some extra re-enforced areas and a completely redesigned latch that places the torque forces on the end of the handle not on the roll pin. The BCM handle also comes with 3 different lengths for the latch and it is my choice for my rifles. I use the medium latch version and it is awesome.

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I like rifle length handguards. It is not so much the question of aesthetics but rather being able to grip the gun way forward with the support arm being straight. It allows for quicker transition and faster follow-up shots.

 

Slav

 

That's fine, but I'm sorry to you as everyone else in this thread who puts in their .02 my original question was not what do you like and what don't you like, it was not for me to say what I wanted to put on my rifle then wait to hear why what I chose or choose is wrong, then to hear what I should go with. I know enough about AR's to know how I want to build a rifle. What I wanted was tangible material to research black rifles more and to become better accustom to that nothing more or less. No offense if I wanna duracoat my rifle pink and od green tiger stripe that is the true beauty of it, I can put on there what I want.

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That's fine, but I'm sorry to you as everyone else in this thread who puts in their .02 my original question was not what do you like and what don't you like, it was not for me to say what I wanted to put on my rifle then wait to hear why what I chose or choose is wrong,

 

Well thats tough luck. This is interwebs. What you ask for and what you get are seldom the same. :icon_lol:

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IF you're going to build it yourself and are interested in reducing weight, here is a link to most of the common rail systems with thier respective weights in offered lengths. I'm thinking about a 12" Troy or MI rail in the future, they're just so light and minimalistic.

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Dedicated .22LR barrels are 1 in 16 twist, so whatever barrel is close will work better. As a side note, original M16 barrels were 1 in 12 twist. Another thing to remember when using a .22LR kit with your .223/5.56 barrel is that .22LR bullets are actually .221 and so are slightly undersize for you barrel. Some people also say that the lube used on .22LR bullets can accumulate in the barrel gas port after repeated firings, so you need to pay attention to that when you go back to .223/5.56.

 

I've also heard that if you've got an .22 conversion kit, it's better with a 1/9 barrel - more accurate. I guess that's due to the slower twist?

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