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Brake Parts Cleaner on Firearms ???

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Just picked up a Rossi Model 92 blued in 357 Magnum. I also purchased a DVD from Steve Gunz (http://www.stevesgunz.com/) for expert advice on assembly/disassembly, cleaning, and modifications. Steve recommends after removing the stock to flush the barrel and action with a non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner until the fluid runs clear.

 

Does anyone use brake parts cleaner to clean their firearms?

 

Thanks

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Only to remove cosmoline or excessive grease. I use hoppes 9 for regular cleaning after a trip to the range.

Would you use it on a blued finish or only stainless steel? The DVD shows Steve working on a stainless steel model.

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Yes, for cheap heavy degreasing of most steel firearms its ok. Keep it away from wood, painted metal and *ALL* plastics lest you want your finish stripped and your Glock occupying the bottom of a Dixie cup. Even if i use brake cleaner to hose down a filthy gun, it will noticeably dry out the metal and so i still follow up with some other chemical (clp, gun oil or silicone rag) to take care of the dry spots.

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I've used brake cleaner for years. CRC Brake Kleen in the red can is the same stuff as Gunscrubber at about 1/3 the price. I use solvent like Hoppes to clean and brake cleaner to flush out the dirty solvent in slides and actions. It is not as good a solvent as say Hoppes. You need to exercise caution when using it on plastics and wood. As far as plastics the only one I can say its safe to use on is Glocks by personal experience. I have seen it melt an AUG magazine. It will strip some finishes from wood.

 

You also have to remember brake cleaner will strip all lubricant and the metal will be as dry as it can get. You will need to lube well after using it.

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Griz, there's two different formula's out there. Your typical brake cleaner and also original GunScrubber is Tetrachloroethylene and is harmful to paint and plastics. There is, however, a "Synthetic Safe" version of gunscrubber which contains Trichloroethylene (T-111) and that is safe to use on such items. I still avoid hitting paint, wood or other nicer finishes with it to avoid discoloration but i'll hose out my M&P with it no problem and it works as-advertized.

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Thanks everyone! I think that I'll stick to Hoppes #9 since the rifle doesn't have any excessive oil on it. What also concerned me about the video was that Steve left the wood hand guard on the Rossi as he was emptying a can of brake parts cleaner down the barrel and magazine tube. It seems that everyone here says to keep brake parts cleaner away from wood which sounds like real good advice.

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Griz, there's two different formula's out there. Your typical brake cleaner and also original GunScrubber is Tetrachloroethylene and is harmful to paint and plastics. There is, however, a "Synthetic Safe" version of gunscrubber which contains Trichloroethylene (T-111) and that is safe to use on such items. I still avoid hitting paint, wood or other nicer finishes with it to avoid discoloration but i'll hose out my M&P with it no problem and it works as-advertized.

 

I'm aware of this. Gunscrubber came out with synthetic safe with the proliferation of plastic parts in firearms. The endorsement from Glock was with the original Gunscrubber. I've used the tetrachloroethylene on Glocks with no ill effects. However, you're probably bett off using the synthetic safe so you don't have to worry.

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Just picked up a Rossi Model 92 blued in 357 Magnum. I also purchased a DVD from Steve Gunz (http://www.stevesgunz.com/) for expert advice on assembly/disassembly, cleaning, and modifications. Steve recommends after removing the stock to flush the barrel and action with a non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner until the fluid runs clear.

 

Does anyone use brake parts cleaner to clean their firearms?

 

Thanks

 

I do the same thing with my 1892.....easier than doing a total tear down to clean it......

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However, you're probably bett off using the synthetic safe so you don't have to worry.

 

You hit the nail on the head right there. Even with the syn-safe, you never know what is kosher and what;s no good. I've got a huge blotch of kinkle coat paint missing off one of my 10-22's because of overzealous cleaning and i've also melted a toothbrush or two cleaning milsurps with brake cleaner. lol

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As others said, fine on metal, keep away from plastics and wood. It will dry-clean the metal, as in suck out every drop of oil/protectant out of the crevices in the metal. Whenever I "dry clean" a gun with brake cleaner, I let it dry completely, then generously apply whatever my choice is of gun oil/protectant and let it soak for a bit before wiping away. This will return the protective coating that the brake cleaner blasted away.

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hoppes 9 and other gun specific cleaners work well enough i dont feel the need to use something thats not designed for guns. no need to risk anything just to save 5min of cleaning time

Maybe, but you can't forcefully blast crud out of all those nooks and crannies with Hoppe's on a rag.

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hoppes 9 and other gun specific cleaners work well enough i dont feel the need to use something thats not designed for guns. no need to risk anything just to save 5min of cleaning time

 

What's the difference if you use tetrachloroethylene if its in a can with Gunscrubber or Brake Kleen on the label?

 

The only way you're going to get that cruddy Hoppes out of the nooks and crannies of a slide or action is to give it a bath in solvent and blow it out with compressed air or use something like tetrachloroethylene in a spray can.

 

Its also useful if your gun is soaked from the rain or has been totally immersed in water. WD40 to displace the water and Gunscrubber or Brake Kleen to flush out the WD40.

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Just picked up a Rossi Model 92 blued in 357 Magnum. I also purchased a DVD from Steve Gunz (http://www.stevesgunz.com/) for expert advice on assembly/disassembly, cleaning, and modifications. Steve recommends after removing the stock to flush the barrel and action with a non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner until the fluid runs clear.

 

Does anyone use brake parts cleaner to clean their firearms?

 

Thanks

I've had the same rifle and just bought the same video from Steve's, along with the stainless magazine follower. I shot a lever gun match with it the other day and had a lot of trouble feeding 38s - seems to feed 357 better (not a surprise since that's what it's designed for).

I'm pretty stoked about the depth he goes into on the action mods and it looks like I'll be diving into them soon. If you do any of the work let me know how it turns out.

Overall I like the feel of the gun.

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I've had the same rifle and just bought the same video from Steve's, along with the stainless magazine follower. I shot a lever gun match with it the other day and had a lot of trouble feeding 38s - seems to feed 357 better (not a surprise since that's what it's designed for).

I'm pretty stoked about the depth he goes into on the action mods and it looks like I'll be diving into them soon. If you do any of the work let me know how it turns out.

Overall I like the feel of the gun.

I had sent an email to Steve regarding the feeding of 38's and he replied with the following:

 

 

"The problems shows up the most with these short straightwall pistol cals. and it's even more common with cals like 38/357m and 44spec/44mag because of the diverse selection of ammos to chose from. Just keep in mind these pistol cal rifles are a lot like semi-auto pistols. There's just some ammo it's not going to work with.

The original 92's were designed to work with bottleneck ammo in the 1.5" to 1.6" OAL. Depending on the bullet shape it may work with longer ammo and even shorter if you don't try to run it fast.

As you have found the most common problem with the shorter 38's is the gun will throw out live rounds with the empty's. This is because the shorter 38 coming on to the carrier from the tube can bounce forward enough that the rim is too close to the rim slots in the guides and when you lever it fast the carrier just catapults them up or out with the empty."

 

Overall I like the rifle and it serves my purpose, a companion for my 357 Ruger revolvers. I too got the stainless magazine follower but am putting off making any other modifications until I use the rifle for awhile.

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That's the exact problem I was having...seemed like two rounds would find their way into the breech sometimes- occasionally it would pop out a new round with the casing.

Still, the mods he talks about make sense as described. I had emailed him because the gun was nicking up the edges of the brass and he replied that the mods should reduce or eliminate that problem.

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I had a Rossi' '92 in 38/357 that used to schuck out live rounds all the damn time. There was too much room between the cartridge guides, then I simply replaced the right cartridge guide and it sorta helped. But with continued problems, and always searching for the 'proper' ammo, it became a big pain in the a**, ended up selling it super cheap.

 

To really smooth it out, you can get stones, and hand slot stones from Brownells and stone the sides of the bolt, and in the receiver of where the locking lugs work.

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