Hornady LNL AP questions

[compujas 21]

I'm considering purchasing a Hornady LNL AP eventually and had a few questions about what I need with it. I already reload on a single stage Lee Breech Lock Challenger, so I have all the normal reloading accessories (calipers, scale, etc.), I really just need anything related to the LNL specifically. I know I need a shell plate for each caliber, but anything else? I already have several Lee die sets, but since they're shorter than other dies, will they still work? Or should I buy a new set of Hornady dies? I'm also interested in a lock-out die, but I'm not sure where to fit it in the process and whether I also need the PTX dies to be able to use it, or really what my options for die configurations are?

 

Aside from other things required to operate the press, what suggestions do you have for things that are nice to have (other than the case and bullet feeders which I won't be getting...yet). I'm not really looking to be able to get 400+ rounds per hour out of it, just a little quicker than single stage, in case I decide I want to go to the range the next morning and need to make some ammo.

 

Thanks in advance.

[PeteF 1,044]

You'll need some die bushings, http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1165277407/hornady-lock-n-load-die-bushings

 

A few come with the press but if you change calibers, they are handy to have around.

A few extra primer pickup tubes help speed the process up.

You'll need a good dry lubricant, for the shell plate and primer feeder.

Other than that, nothing I can think of that you'll need that you don't already have.

 

 

I use the hornady dies but I see no reason the Lee dies wouldn't work. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCAQtwIwAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3Dab_HG9n3dcg&ei=IgNuUKvMK6fg0gHtyoGQDQ&usg=AFQjCNFI5lBKaLKVmIuDJ_Px9tXMg4lWAA&cad=rja

 

Read all the manuals, Watch the online videos as the manuals do contain some "ERRATA",

 

It's very important to clean all the packing "Preservative" off the press during setup.

 

Make sure the press is mounted to a sturdy bench. You can apply A LOT of pressure with the LNL.

 

As to Lock out die I recommend the RCBS lock out over the Hornady Powder cop. The rcbs will lock up the press on over or underloads.

 

 

Die set up

I run:

1. Decapper/Sizer

2. Expander

3. Powder Fill

4. LockOut

5. Seater/Crimp

 

 

Just take it slow at first, be safe, make sure everything is tight and setup properly.

Speed comes pretty easy, I can get 3-400 .40s&w an hour with no real rush

[compujas 21]

I guess I should mention that I have the Lee Deluxe Carbide set (decapper/sizer, powder thru expander, seater, crimper). So it sounds like I'd either need to buy the hornady ptx die to have separate seat and crimp, or I'd have to buy a seater/crimper die. Also, I'm only loading 9mm for handgun right now, but will probably eventually load .40 and potentially .223 (I do also load .308 but will stick with single stage for precision loads).

[Maksim 1,504]

I guess I should mention that I have the Lee Deluxe Carbide set (decapper/sizer, powder thru expander, seater, crimper). So it sounds like I'd either need to buy the hornady ptx die to have separate seat and crimp, or I'd have to buy a seater/crimper die. Also, I'm only loading 9mm for handgun right now, but will probably eventually load .40 and potentially .223 (I do also load .308 but will stick with single stage for precision loads).

 

Lee dies work just fine with the Hornady... all my die sets except 2 are Lee. They are a little shorter, so just take your time setting them up, but they are just fine.

 

You cannot use the Lee Powder Through expander with the Hornady powder measure, however you can use the die to expand.... or use it with the lee powder measure.

 

Absolutely get an RCBS Lock out Die. Far better than the Hornady powder cop.

 

Currently I have setup.

 

Station - Die

1. Deprime/Resize (Lee)

2. Expander (Lee)

3. Hornady Powder Drop Die (the one that came with the press)

4. RCBS Lock out Die

5. Seat/Crimp (Lee)

 

I do not use the factory crimp die as there is no space for it, however you can then reset it, and do it separately, or on a single stage. For 40 cal, I do not use it.

You can get the Hornady powder through expander inserts for the powder measure, and it will free up one station, however reviews are less than stellar on it. So I sacrificed the factory crimp for it.

 

The RCBS Lock out Die, while not essential to reloading, I feel is a must, and dirt cheap insurance from blowing up your gun.

 

For the Lock n Load AP, I would get the casefeeder, exponentially faster reloading, as well as look into an ergonomic handle, especially if you are setting up the press higher up to reload while standing or on a tall stool.

 

Otherwise, shell plates for each caliber, and some dry lube.

 

Edit... Btw, your Seating die in the Lee Deluxe set is a Seat/Crimp die.... just adjust it down, read the booklet that came with it. It is fine for most calibers. The factory crimp die is really there (as I use it) to give a post loaded, secondary resize to get rid of any bulges. However in most handguns, it is not necessary. It does help in guns with a tighter chamber, such as CZ/Tanfoglio.

[Guest]

Casefeeder. .

 

 

[compujas 21]

I completely forgot that the Lee seater can crimp also. That helps a lot. Like you said, I can use the factory crimp die afterwards if I feel the need.

 

Sounds like for now all I need to get is the press, shell plate, and lockout die. Everything else is a nice to have that I can add on later, like ergo handle, case feeder, extra primer pickup tubes, and extra bushings when I start loading more than one caliber on it.

[vortex0178 3]

I suggest a primer flip tray. One does not come with the L-N-L. If you bought a hand primer when loading single stage, that'd work, but a standard style tray would probably be easier. I use an RCBS tray.

 

I don't see the need for extra primer pickup tubes. I take my time so I'm fine w/just picking up 200 primers for prep (filling, then emptying once into the press and filling the same tube up again). My fingers start to ache after just 200 primers, so I'd shy away from doing 400+ at once.

[Guest]

Jason ...get a case feeder right away.....I wish I did....love it....

 

I am hesitant to say..but I will it should be part of the initial purchase!

 

 

[halbautomatisch 60]

I completely forgot that the Lee seater can crimp also. That helps a lot. Like you said, I can use the factory crimp die afterwards if I feel the need.

 

The Hornady seater dies also can crimp.

[Maksim 1,504]

The Hornady seater dies also can crimp.

 

Pretty much every die set, will come with a seat/crimp. He already has a Lee die set, so no reason to get another, especially when the Hornady die sets are still not powder through expanders, but rather expander plug for the powder measure. If he bought a Hornady die set, it would accomplish nothing that he can currently do. =)

 

The Lee Factory Crimp Die is different from the regular seat/crimp dies as the factory crimp die gives a taper crimp, removing the flare from the casemouth, and improves feeding

[KpdPipes 388]

Everyone has pretty much covered everything you need..one addition that's not 1005 Necessary, but can help is an EGW Case-Checker gauge It's a little steel dingus that has chambers bored out for .45 .40. .38Sup and 9mm every few rounds, drop a finished one into the gauge, and make sure nothing has backed out or loosened up. I've run a couple of thousand .45 through my L-N-L so far, and i cant be happier with it.

[Guest]

Everyone has pretty much covered everything you need..one addition that's not 1005 Necessary, but can help is an EGW Case-Checker gauge It's a little steel dingus that has chambers bored out for .45 .40. .38Sup and 9mm every few rounds, drop a finished one into the gauge, and make sure nothing has backed out or loosened up. I've run a couple of thousand .45 through my L-N-L so far, and i cant be happier with it.

 

 

Excellent point ...!

 

I did have some quality control issues.....after the case guages...none

[Maksim 1,504]

Cheaper alternative... take our your barrel and drop check/chamber check every round. =)

[compujas 21]

I actually already have a case gage so I'm good there.

 

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[PeteF 1,044]

Cheaper alternative... take our your barrel and drop check/chamber check every round. =)

 

I have done both. I found that the case gauge is tighter than the chamber on my barrels. IE a cartridge that is snug going into the gauge, will slide easily in to the chamber of my gun.

 

Done this on 4 different makes of guns and different guns within same caliber. Seems to hold true. I guess the gun manufactures give a few extra thousandths to help feeding issues.

[KpdPipes 388]

Cheaper alternative... take our your barrel and drop check/chamber check every round. =)

 

One gauge on top of the bench is easier than having 4 bbls floating around.....I even bought the Moon Clip Check cylinder as well just to be on the safe side.

[KpdPipes 388]

Excellent point ...!

 

I did have some quality control issues.....after the case guages...none

First batch I ran through my LNL fed ok with no issues, but I was surprised at how far out they were when i checked them once I had the gauge, ended up running 550 rounds back through the Crimp die once i got it right, and checked every one

[compujas 21]

Another question. I noticed that Hornady has both pistol and rifle metering inserts and drums for the powder measure. Does the LNL AP come with both, or just one?

[Maksim 1,504]

Both.

[JackDaWack 2,895]

Yup it comes with both. I believe the large one comes pre installed. It also has the large primer seat pre-installed so make sure you change that out too if need be.

[compujas 21]

Got the press today (Big thanks to Nick and Joe at Mastodon). I was looking at how I would mount it to the bench, and I'm not sure if I want to get the ultramount for it or not. I already have a countertop height workbench (used Ikea kitchen cabinets and countertop) with a counter height stool, but I'm thinking it might be better still with the mount. My main concern is that because I have a cabinet with drawers on each end of the bench, the press has to go in the middle so I can still use the drawers. With the mount I can put it on top on one end and still be able to use the drawers and have plenty of room left in the middle to be able to clean guns and have general working space. I'm also thinking about getting the case feeder eventually and don't know how much room above it I need.

 

I guess my question is two parts, how much better is it having the mount vs mounting it on the bench, and how tall is the case feeder above the mounting surface (top of strong mount or top of workbench)?

[Maksim 1,504]

Mine is mounted to a desk, case feeder is pretty tall, go on YouTube and look for videos. I would estimate about a yard to 4 feet above. Did not measure mine.

 

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[KpdPipes 388]

Just measured it, 25 inches above the mounting surface

[compujas 21]

Just measured it, 25 inches above the mounting surface

 

Thanks for checking, but 25" sounds a bit short to me. The press itself seems like about a foot tall, and I know just from pictures that the case feeder is much taller.

 

I just did a quick google search (that I stupidly didn't do before asking) and found two people say it's about 38" tall, which sounds more realistic based on some pictures.

[raz-0 1,259]

25" is just the press. With case feeder it is about 39". You also need clearance to get brass into the hopper.

[JackDaWack 2,895]

It would seem that having it mounted at the bench, waist height, allows for an easier manipulation of the handle. Having it up higher allows you to mount it anywhere though, and you get a better view of the brass.

[KpdPipes 388]

25" is just the press. With case feeder it is about 39". You also need clearance to get brass into the hopper.

I dont have a Case feeder

[compujas 21]

I'm in the process of setting everything up now and I noticed that the powder baffle just falls all the way to the bottom. Is this right or is it supposed to be a friction fit in the tube?

 

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[compujas 21]

It's a completely loose fit though and it just flops around a bit on the bottom. Is it supposed to be that loose? When I go to dump the powder out it just falls back out. It doesn't seem like it's going to do much if the powder above it can push it down.

 

On a separate note, I can't seem to get the lockout die to work for 9mm. I have the stem as short as it will go and the powder charge still pushes the line too high. Maybe I'm just being extra special with everything today.

 

Edit: I just realized, could I possibly need to bend the baffle out a little bit so it's a little larger? That would probably solve it, and since it's probably a stamped and formed part, I'm sure it's not unthinkable for it to be bent too much.

[Maksim 1,504]

It's a completely loose fit though and it just flops around a bit on the bottom. Is it supposed to be that loose? When I go to dump the powder out it just falls back out. It doesn't seem like it's going to do much if the powder above it can push it down.

 

On a separate note, I can't seem to get the lockout die to work for 9mm. I have the stem as short as it will go and the powder charge still pushes the line too high. Maybe I'm just being extra special with everything today.

 

Edit: I just realized, could I possibly need to bend the baffle out a little bit so it's a little larger? That would probably solve it, and since it's probably a stamped and formed part, I'm sure it's not unthinkable for it to be bent too much.

 

Heh?

 

The baffle is supposed to go all the way to the bottom of the powder funnel, then load powder. It helps the powder flow in the cavity.