1911 gunsmithing?

[dtown223 12]

What would the 1911 guys(gals) say the difficulty of swapping a 1911 trigger & hammer would be?

For a point of reference, I've assembled a couple AR lowers with no trouble at all.

So maybe compared to that?

Special tools required?

[fatty 241]

Youtube makes it look very easy but ive heard the hammer may require some fitting depending on the one you get.

 

 

 

[bhunted 887]

I've taken my 1911 apart in minutes and reassembled just as fast... If this what you are asking, then it's pretty easy.

 

 

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[dtown223 12]

I've taken my 1911 apart in minutes and reassembled just as fast... If this what you are asking, then it's pretty easy.

 

 

Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD

Typos courtesy Apple...

So no more difficult than a detail strip?

Excellent

Thanks

[hiker88 22]

The 1911 was never designed to be modular like the modern firearms that we have today. There may be parts manufacturers who advertise drop in components. However, from the little experience that I have, they still require some sort of fitting.

 

I've replaced a couple of my 1911 triggers. The STI triggers seem to have the least fitting needed but I did some polishing on the bow for a smooth operation. The Wilson and Ed Brown aluminum triggers needed a good amount of filing (done slowly and checked for fit several times) when I used them.

 

As far as hammer and sear replacement, I would leave that to a trusted gunsmith. Plenty of things that can go wrong there if you take too much metal or if you get the wrong angle on the contact points.

 

My recommendation is, if you have access to a competent gunsmith, just have him do the work.

[bhunted 887]

I would think the OP would find out if the particular items where compatible with his weapon. Does the manufacturer of the new parts say they drop in? etc...

I based my statement on my Colt Govt.... I'd suggest yanking your gun apart and reassemble it to at least familiarize yourself with the existing components... IMHO of course.

 

 

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[Bully 749]

I would say that unless you are willing to invest in a sear jig, swapping the hammer is a bit of a crap shoot. The way the hammer hooks line up with the sear, if off by the slightest bit, can adversely affect trigger pull at best or you could have a "repeater" on your hands. IMHO, a job best left to a 'smith.

 

For the trigger, get some files, some good sandpaper, and some DiChem or a Marks-A-Lot marker and take your time. A fairly easy job for the mechanically competent (which I believe you are). Swing by or call if you want to borrow anything.

 

1911's are NOT modular. There is no such thing as a "drop in part" when it comes to 1911's. You get lost, call Nick at Mastadon, Rick at OMG Customs, or Manny at the Bullet Hole. They'll get you square.

 

Again, feel free to give me a shout.

 

C

[dtown223 12]

If finances/permits/NICS return times align & I actually close the deal on a 1911 soon, I've decided to leave it the hell alone!

Thanks all for the input all & Topher I'll be in touch soon to swipe that sight pusher!

[Bully 749]

Sounds good.

 

If you're getting a new gun, shoot it stock for awhile. Lke the song says, "Don't go changin" out all the parts before you know how they work together. Also, you might reallly learn to love the gun as is. Grips and sights are no brainers. You start swapping out the internals you are solving problems that didn't exist. A little sandpaper here and there sparingly applied to smooth some stuff out and you will most likely be good to go.

 

C

[Vlad G 345]

If the gun is made by a decent company and its pin holes are in good spec, swapping in a hammer/sear/disconnector group that was designed to work together is a breeze. The only fitting necessary should be a new thumb safety which needs to be fitted to the sear.

 

Modern frames and components are made on CNC machines, not just a guy with a mill and some files, so they are much closer in flexibility to AR's then 1911's of decades past. Think of it this way, in both the AR and the 1911 the fire control group parts are held together by 2-3 pins (depending how you count). If a CNC machine can drill the AR ones so precisely that you can drop in any number of match grade triggers with 1lb triggers, why couldn't the same CNC machine do the same for a 1911 frame? You do have less options in pre-matched drop in kits, but the Cylinder and Slide groups for example work quite nicely, they are already fitted to each other and if your pin holes are in spec they work wonders. Myself an other people I know have used those kits with great success and done so in USPSA guns. I know my Springfield has over 15k rounds downrange with the C&S kit and it works like a champ and feel like it did they day I dropped it in.

 

The triggers themselves are even easier, although some fitting of the beavertail safety might be needed, so if you want a new grip safety this would be the time to get one.

[raz-0 1,259]

To run with vlad's point, you can get plenty of ar triggers that drop in as parts in the 3-4.5lb range. Everything that is drop in and under 3lbs is to the best of my knowledge a trigger module. Anything that is a bag of parts that can do it use set screws.

 

You can expect similar performance from 1911 trigger kits that are done well. The cylinder & slide kits are good. Most of them are 3lbs and above. As you get down to 2.5lb and below, you wind up with very little left in the way of hammer and sear engagement. BEcause of this, IMO they should be done for the gun and NEVER swapped with another frame. Use your own judgment on the above, but one thing you absolutely need to know is how to safety function check your 1911. You can avoid a lot of problems ahead of time by doing that.

[Spartiati 63]

I muscled thorugh a trigger/hammer job once....once....

 

It's not terribly complicated, but if you don't do it for a living there is a lot you can screw up. As another person posted above contact points are critical and if you mess them up you could create a non function or worse unsafe firearm.

 

I ended up taking away too much material and had to buy parts twice...

 

Most smiths charge $60-80 bucks for a trigger job which I think is well worth it. My 2 cents...

[BullzeyeNJ 104]

Like others (Vlad and Raz-o) said, the C&S kits are great if you know how to install them properly. Most of the time they will drop right in as replacement parts but that one time it doesnt will you know how to fix it?

[HODGIE 3]

1911's are NOT modular. There is no such thing as a "drop in part" when it comes to 1911's. You get lost, call Nick at Mastadon, Rick at OMG Customs, or Manny at the Bullet Hole. They'll get you square.

 

I tend to agree with this, lots of parts out there say they "drop" right in but that does not always appear to be the case.

Not saying you should not try doing the changes youself but educate yourself on what may need to be done and how

to trouble shoot any other issues the new part may cause.

[Vlad G 345]

I find the 1911 fun to work on and if your really want the 1911 forum has an extensive selection of instructions.