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Zeroing in my AIMPOINT Pro - help

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Hey guys, just getting some advice and knowledge on zeroing a red dot site.  

 

Here is my issue.  I don't have a spotting scope and don't really have the

coin to buy a good one.  I have a small little monocular that can see to 25

yards alright so that is furthest I can be for zeroing.  

 

I am using a 25 yard zeroing target I found online.  But I don't really understand

the instructions and they seem to be for irons specifically.  

 

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At first I was WAAAAAY off, not even hitting a huge 2' x 3' target at 25yards.

Eventually I got to here:

 

photo+%252810%2529.jpgphoto+%25289%2529.jpg

 

These were the last 10 shots of the day before the final cease fire (Ft. Dix).  I was told that I should

be about 1.8" below the bullseye for a 100 yard zero.  

 

Should I be at that line where it says "300 Meters" on the target to be zeroed for 300 yards?  

 

And is adjusting to different lines below the bullseye good enough to know you are good for

that particular distance?  In other words how well does this 25 yard zeroing really translate to

the actual distance you are zeroing for?  

 

OK, I'm rambling now, I'll let you guys talk.  Thanks.

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Try this one.

 

 

ETA

 

I assume youre using an AR?  Also is there a reason you're going for a 100 yd zero?

 

Thanks  I just printed this.  Actually I would like to be at further than 100 yards.

I would like to be for the furthest distance I can shoot which is 200 yards.

 

With the target you listed above what does a 50/200 zero mean?  It has the same

Point of impact at 50 and 200 yards?  

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Yes.  Its not exact as it can depend on your barrel, ammo, etc. but the arc of the bullets path will cross the line of sight at 50 and 200 yards. 

 

So at 25 yards you want to be a little low.  Aim for the green, hit the grey, and you're good. 

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seems weird that everyone chooses the 50/200 and most instructors ive seen recommend the 100 yard zero.  most arguably mr vickers

I'm open for anything. Don't know much about

Rifle shooting. Guess I could always experiment.

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im not 100% sure of the benefits.   heres a guy from knights armament talking about it

 

http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?107572-Zen-of-the-100-Meter-Zero

 

i've also read larry vickers wants you to explain why you dont use 100 yard/meter zero in his carbine course if you come with a rifle zero'd for something else.  

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im not 100% sure of the benefits.   heres a guy from knights armament talking about it

 

http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?107572-Zen-of-the-100-Meter-Zero

 

i've also read larry vickers wants you to explain why you dont use 100 yard/meter zero in his carbine course if you come with a rifle zero'd for something else.  

 

 

I use a 50 yard 0 because while the gun is mostly used inside 100...I do shoot the gun out to 300... a 50 yard 0 has me within reason 0-100 but more importantly when I do reach out further I am not making insane adjustments.. 

 

like if you look at the arc on the chart.. you can see the smooth path a 50 yard 0 gives.. 

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i guess the thinking of the 100 meter zero is that from 0 - 200 you are looking at POI = POT - less than 3 inches.  with the 50/200 you have POI = POA +/- 2 inches or so.  so it may be easier to never have to worry that part of the time (from 50-200 you are actually shooting higher than your POA and below 50 or above 200 you are shooting under.  

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i guess the thinking of the 100 meter zero is that from 0 - 200 you are looking at POI = POT - less than 3 inches.  with the 50/200 you have POI = POA +/- 2 inches or so.  so it may be easier to never have to worry that part of the time (from 50-200 you are actually shooting higher than your POA and below 50 or above 200 you are shooting under.  

 

 

when I shoot 0-100 it is MOSTLY shooting for center mass... a hit is a hit...

when I am shooting 250 I am normally aiming more...

 

so the logic is a 50 yard 0 is getting me DEAD ON at 50 with a tiny bit of variation 0-100 otherwise...

and then when I need a lot of range on the gun I dont have to point the gun at the sun to get a hit on target..

 

like even with a 50 yard 0 I have no issue making pretty precise shots inside 100.. 

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im not 100% sure of the benefits.   heres a guy from knights armament talking about it

 

http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?107572-Zen-of-the-100-Meter-Zero

 

i've also read larry vickers wants you to explain why you dont use 100 yard/meter zero in his carbine course if you come with a rifle zero'd for something else.  

Because from 25 out to 225 yards your 1.5 inches from zero at any given distance. The 100 yard zero drops quickly past 175 yards.

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It doesn't matter, pick a zero you can work with and for which you know your hold overs at the ranges you want to use the rifle and move on. I like a 200 yard zero as I'm fairly flat from 25 to 275 and adjusting to hit out to 350-400 is not that hard, and because you get a hasty zero at 50yards which you then can refine at 200 which is really workable at NJ ranges.

 

People obsess too much about their zero distance and don't spend enough time knowing where their gun shoots everywhere else.

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i've also read larry vickers wants you to explain why you dont use 100 yard/meter zero in his carbine course if you come with a rifle zero'd for something else.  

 

Not true, He prefers the 100 zero but if you understand your zero he doesn't care.

 

Don't take my word for it though, take one of his courses.

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i guess the thinking of the 100 meter zero is that from 0 - 200 you are looking at POI = POT - less than 3 inches. with the 50/200 you have POI = POA +/- 2 inches or so. so it may be easier to never have to worry that part of the time (from 50-200 you are actually shooting higher than your POA and below 50 or above 200 you are shooting under.

I read that article. The only remotely compelling argument is that a 100 meter zero will be tighter because zeroing at longer distances shows finer tolerances.

 

Their argument for about 3 inches (I.e. A bit more than three inches) vs. a bit under four inches is just pointless, especially since theirs is always hitting low. With the 50 yard zero, out to 200 I aim center of what I want to hit and I'm either <2" high or <2" low. At under 20 yards turn the gun 45 degrees and sight down the handguard. Over 200, put the bottom of the dot in top of the target (dot the i meaning of on top), and you are there instead of guessing where to put your dot.

 

I see no compelling reason in the explanation linked, and find it odd that they don't lay out the holdovers the same for both.

 

There caveat that it's all easy under xxx yards with targets over 8" is kind of stupid. I mean if you are interested in more than random holes in a bad guy, the vital areas are all about 8" or less.

 

Maybe it is like mil vs moa. Some people say mild are real easy to do in your head. Personally I find moa math easy to do in my head out to distances beyond which I'd have to settle for the random holes in a minute if bad guy sized target with a red dot.

 

Or maybe they are fans of 20" barrels. The 50-200 zero starts getting odd about 18" and isn't as clean as above. It's frikin awesome for 16" barrels though.

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I'm a visual guy, so maybe others are and this screenshot from one of the Magpul videos might help. These are hits using a 50 yard zero.

 

db06950e9472838e9062514f9ca9bff1_zps345e

 

This video also does a pretty good job explaining the hits using different zeros.

http://youtu.be/Klvve0ZG_jo

 

http://gunwebsites.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Guns-AR15-Zero-Introduction.pdf

 

Personally, I like the 50 yard zero.

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Not true, He prefers the 100 zero but if you understand your zero he doesn't care.

 

Don't take my word for it though, take one of his courses.

 

you might be right.  i can't find the reference to what i was talking about.  i'd love to take his one day into carbine course.  

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I read that article. The only remotely compelling argument is that a 100 meter zero will be tighter because zeroing at longer distances shows finer tolerances.

 

Their argument for about 3 inches (I.e. A bit more than three inches) vs. a bit under four inches is just pointless, especially since theirs is always hitting low. With the 50 yard zero, out to 200 I aim center of what I want to hit and I'm either <2" high or <2" low. At under 20 yards turn the gun 45 degrees and sight down the handguard. Over 200, put the bottom of the dot in top of the target (dot the i meaning of on top), and you are there instead of guessing where to put your dot.

 

I see no compelling reason in the explanation linked, and find it odd that they don't lay out the holdovers the same for both.

 

There caveat that it's all easy under xxx yards with targets over 8" is kind of stupid. I mean if you are interested in more than random holes in a bad guy, the vital areas are all about 8" or less.

 

Maybe it is like mil vs moa. Some people say mild are real easy to do in your head. Personally I find moa math easy to do in my head out to distances beyond which I'd have to settle for the random holes in a minute if bad guy sized target with a red dot.

 

Or maybe they are fans of 20" barrels. The 50-200 zero starts getting odd about 18" and isn't as clean as above. It's frikin awesome for 16" barrels though.

 

 

im not advocating a 100yd zero over a 50yd zero.  I don't really see a clear benefit to either one.  i just found it odd that the "experts" like vickers are saying they prefer 100 yard zero while it seems the 50yd zero is much more common.  i assume as long as you pick one and learn the hold overs/unders correctly you can shoot either.  

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