.223/5.56 crimp removal

[carl_g 568]

I am new to reloading. I have been reloading 9mm now for a couple of months. I've got my routine and my loads pretty well down and consistent. I now want to move into reloading ammo for my AR. I think I know everything that I need to get started except for a good way to remove military primer crimp. It appears from all the research that I have done that the dillon super swager tool is the goto tool. Is there anything cheaper that I should look at that works well or is this the tool to have? I appreciate the input.

[Old School 611]

I have the Dillon tool works fine.  Now I standardize on LC cases.

 

RCBS also makes a similar too, I don't know how it works.

 

But for a $100 the Dillon tool is worth it especially if you are getting free military cases.

[pjd832 146]

this is what i use...works like a charm...includes both large and small setup for 5.56 and 7.62 nato...it doesnt remove any material from the pocket like "reamers" do...which ive heard of people having issues with primers backing out ...but i cannot confirm that..

 

 

http://www.opticsplanet.com/rcbs-primer-pocket-swager-combo-2.html?gclid=CPCM5N-Wz7sCFU5o7AodgwMAzw&ef_id=UrzN2AAAALnvNmCv:20131227004616:s

[GRIZ 3,369]

Search "chamfer tool" on Midway's website and there are 5 or 6 tools you can use to remove the military crimp and chamfer the case mouth from $3.99 to about $20. These are all you "need" to do what you want. The Dillon tool is nice but you can do as good a job with these.

[carl_g 568]

this is what i use...works like a charm...includes both large and small setup for 5.56 and 7.62 nato...it doesnt remove any material from the pocket like "reamers" do...which ive heard of people having issues with primers backing out ...but i cannot confirm that..

 

 

http://www.opticsplanet.com/rcbs-primer-pocket-swager-combo-2.html?gclid=CPCM5N-Wz7sCFU5o7AodgwMAzw&ef_id=UrzN2AAAALnvNmCv:20131227004616:s

If I had a single stage press I would go that way but I thought that I read somewhere that the RCBS die will not work with a lee classic turret press. Is this correct?

[njJoniGuy 2,131]

The RCBS primer pocket swager works on a single stage press (if you have one)

 

Your basic choice for dealing with crimped primer pockets is to either:

Move brass (with a swager like the Dillon or RCBS)

or

Remove brass (as with the many primer pocket reaming tools available)

 

The crowd is split about 50/50, even among the top competition shooters.

 

Personally, I use the RCBS swager in my Rockchucker press, but that's just my own solution.

Remember, you only have to do this the first time you're processing once-fired military brass.

[pjd832 146]

If I had a single stage press I would go that way but I thought that I read somewhere that the RCBS die will not work with a lee classic turret press. Is this correct?

oh i gotcha...i wasnt sure..i have a couple single stage presses on my bench.....im not a fan of the progressives...but thats just me...as mentioned...its all preference as to swage or ream...personally i dont like the thought of removing brass from the pocket...

[carl_g 568]

Is there anything that you could chuck into a drill press that reams the pockets accurately and efficiently?

[njJoniGuy 2,131]

Is there anything that you could chuck into a drill press that reams the pockets accurately and efficiently?

Here ya go:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/501588/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-tool-small

[carl_g 568]

Cool thanks guys

[SmartAss 11]

If I had a single stage press I would go that way but I thought that I read somewhere that the RCBS die will not work with a lee classic turret press. Is this correct?

 

True, but with a simple add on modification, it will work fine.

I used a copper tubing coupler with a couple of machine screws in it to fit over the ram and hold the RCBS case ejector thing. It works perfect.

[carl_g 568]

True, but with a simple add on modification, it will work fine.

I used a copper tubing coupler with a couple of machine screws in it to fit over the ram and hold the RCBS case ejector thing. It works perfect.

Would you mind being more specific on the height and width of that piece of copper??

Thanks!

[SmartAss 11]

It is this item from Home Depot: http://www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1-in-Copper-Cup-x-Cup-Coupling-with-Stop-C600/100345530?keyword=039923309082#

 

The two machine screws are needed to stop the ejector on the ram's down stroke for popping the case off the swagging nipple. Drill holes for the screws just slightly smaller than the size of them so that they thread themselves into the copper. Screw them in far enough to so that they catch the ejector, but not too far that they interfere with the ram.

 

 

[carl_g 568]

It is this item from Home Depot: http://www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1-in-Copper-Cup-x-Cup-Coupling-with-Stop-C600/100345530?keyword=039923309082#

 

The two machine screws are needed to stop the ejector on the ram's down stroke for popping the case off the swagging nipple. Drill holes for the screws just slightly smaller than the size of them so that they thread themselves into the copper. Screw them in far enough to so that they catch the ejector, but not too far that they interfere with the ram.

Thanks a lot. I might give it a go this way.

[raz-0 1,259]

Rcbs swaging tool that is similar to the Dillon is great. I have had one for a while. I got one super cheap when Psa had free shipping and a big discount on Rcbs stuff.

[Rob0115 1,105]

I've never really had success with the pocket swager tools. I've used a reamer from hornady or even the neck chamfer tool to ream the pockets.  

[NJKen 23]

I've never really had success with the pocket swager tools. I've used a reamer from hornady or even the neck chamfer tool to ream the pockets.  

The neck chamfer tool is the quickest and best option if you expect to have only the occasional piece of crimped brass.  Having said that I must also tell you that this requires skill and patience!  I know it sounds easy but you can wreck brass quick this way.  You only take off the tiniest amount of brass.  If you can see a slope on the edge of the primer pocket, you have removed too much.  If you want to try this method, practice on some scrap brass.

Ken

[Gravity 0]

If your loading for accuracy primer pocket swage....if your bulk loading primer pocket ream...

Lol what?

[djg0770 481]

this is what i use...works like a charm...includes both large and small setup for 5.56 and 7.62 nato...it doesnt remove any material from the pocket like "reamers" do...which ive heard of people having issues with primers backing out ...but i cannot confirm that..

 

 

http://www.opticsplanet.com/rcbs-primer-pocket-swager-combo-2.html?gclid=CPCM5N-Wz7sCFU5o7AodgwMAzw&ef_id=UrzN2AAAALnvNmCv:20131227004616:s

another vote for the rcbs which I have had to mildly "rig" in order for it to work properly on my lee single stage

[pjd832 146]

another vote for the rcbs which I have had to mildly "rig" in order for it to work properly on my lee single stage

I use one on a lee single stage ... What did you modify?

[raz-0 1,259]

  

If your loading for accuracy primer pocket swage....if your bulk loading primer pocket ream...

 

What's your rationale with that. I started with the hornady reamer, and changed to the RBCS bench swager. The bench swager is WAY faster and much more consistent. In bulk loading, faster wins usually. 

[Old School 611]

Swage, Swage, Swage!!! Unless you use a primer pocket reamer, which is a PIA.

 

If you use a case mouth reamer the primer pocket gets too wide before you get the crimp out.

[djg0770 481]

I use one on a lee single stage ... What did you modify?

 

There's a casting web on one side of the base of the press that causes the swager to pull out unevenly...

[NJKen 23]

Swage, Swage, Swage!!! Unless you use a primer pocket reamer, which is a PIA.

 

If you use a case mouth reamer the primer pocket gets too wide before you get the crimp out.

Sometimes you get that 4 stake crimp LC brass (seems to be mostly '12 nato) and the case mouth reamer is all that works on it.  Swageing them leaves 4 sharp little blades that hang up on everything. 

Using a case mouth reamer is a valid method to me.  You just take the tiniest bit of metal off with it.  If you can see the slope of the reamer in the pocket edge you have gone too far.  When done rite this method leaves a nice tight primer pocket that will never get loose before the brass wears out.  

Keep in mind, I usually swage.  It is nice to have alternative methods for when things arent working out rite.

Ken

[raz-0 1,259]

What i mean is that with a reamer in a drill press I can quickly process the primer pocket faster than handling it with the swage method.

If i am bulk loading the ammo...the components of weighing brass....sorting the brass eliminating every little item that can quite possibly impact

the accuracy of the rifle and ammo combo is taken into effect...for plinking ammo...not so much

 

 

 

Can you send me the link on the swager....? I think that a quick primer pocket ream is faster than the swager....maybe my swager sucks

This sucker http://www.midwayusa.com/product/319662/rcbs-bench-mounted-primer-pocket-swager

 

Secured firmly to the bench, it is pretty fast.

[carl_g 568]

So with the reamer I thought it has a built in stop to it. Go down till it touches the bottom of the primer pocket? Is this not the correct way to use it?

[NJKen 23]

So with the reamer I thought it has a built in stop to it. Go down till it touches the bottom of the primer pocket? Is this not the correct way to use it?

Most of them do.  They can be forced and screw up brass however.  You need te develop a "feel" for whatever system you go with.  FWIW, a lot of prep methods are not goof proof.  Read the instructions and be prepared to waste a few (literaly just one or two pieces most of the time) pieces of brass and you will be just fine.

Ken

[pjd832 146]

There's a casting web on one side of the base of the press that causes the swager to pull out unevenly...

Oh I gotcha....I saw something where people were using some bushing or whatnot to lift up on the silver brass stripper thing evenly...but it doesn't bother me really I just get into a rhythm and only go low enough to pop the brass and then lift handle slightly while catching brass..