Jump to content
DanMarvel

Official IWI Tavor Thread

Recommended Posts

On 4/29/2017 at 1:14 PM, medved11 said:

Has  anyone that's added a Manticore Arms curved buttpad to their Tavor (SAR) and had any trouble with the takedown pin getting hung up when you try to put it through the corresponding hole in the recoil/bolt assembly? I can get it to go in but it takes a little fussing with it.  The same pin, with the stock recoil pad installed, goes right through without any resistance.

 

Everything looks like it is lined up correctly on the outside in terms of the retaining bolt. It just seems like I've got to apply a lot more pressure on the recoil assembly and pad in order to get the pin to go through.

Yes - I found that I have to squeeze the pad hard against the stock to get the holes to line up well enough to get the takedown pin in, and putting the pin in takes more force as well.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/10/2017 at 7:00 PM, DirtyDigz said:

Yes - I found that I have to squeeze the pad hard against the stock to get the holes to line up well enough to get the takedown pin in, and putting the pin in takes more force as well.

My regular pad is like that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
This is one sweet rifle.  As a lefty - debating whether or not to switch over to a left-eject bolt and add a new trigger pack.
20170530_120559_zpsyg6jildh.jpg?t=1496173432



This is what I'm looking to switch to. Take off my eotech on buy a vortex optic


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, fatty said:

This is one sweet rifle.  As a lefty - debating whether or not to switch over to a left-eject bolt and add a new trigger pack.

20170530_120559_zpsyg6jildh.jpg?t=149617

I'm a lefty as well and getting my Tavor configured for left-side eject was worth every penny. I tried a friend's right-side eject model a few times before buying, and while I never took any brass to the face when I fired 5.56 rounds through it, I would get grazed in the chin when shooting .223.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Shooting a right eject Tavor left-handed sucks.  Your mouth is right over the ejection port so all the unused powder and gasses go into your mouth along with the brass casings.  

Switch it over or shoot off your week shoulder.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, medved11 said:

I'm a lefty as well and getting my Tavor configured for left-side eject was worth every penny. I tried a friend's right-side eject model a few times before buying, and while I never took any brass to the face when I fired 5.56 rounds through it, I would get grazed in the chin when shooting .223.  

I heard about the different ejection pattern between 223 and 556 rounds.  Luckily all i have is 556 so hoping the first trip out will be ok and casings are spent at 1-2 o'clock

 

@medved11 how much did the conversion cost you?  I know IWI doesnt sell the bolt anymore due to possible head spacing issues.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I heard about the different ejection pattern between 223 and 556 rounds.  Luckily all i have is 556 so hoping the first trip out will be ok and casings are spent at 1-2 o'clock  

[mention=8214]medved11[/mention] how much did the conversion cost you?  I know IWI doesnt sell the bolt anymore due to possible head spacing issues.  

 

 

I actually ordered the factory configured left hand model (B16L I think) which was ~$150 or so more than the standard RH configuration.

 

According to IWI's webpage regarding LH conversion (https://www.iwi.us/lefthand) they'll charge you $124 + $15 (shipping) to do it at their facility in PA. I'm not sure where your located but they do list Hackettstown Guns & Ammo as a certified armorer that can do the conversion for you.

 

You may also want to try an "improved" shell deflector that's supposed to chuck the spent .223 brass out at the 1 o'clock position. If you go to Bullpuparmory.com, they've got the Percival Armaments model for $12.99. You'd just replace the factory deflector with this one. I saw a YouTube review and it seems to work pretty well.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Nice thanks!

 

No problem. If you do the conversion, it's also worth upgrading the plastic port cover that is on the unused port next to your face with a metal one from Midwest Industries or Gearhead Works. Either one of these will seal off the port better than the factory one.

 

I don't get much gas in my face when I shoot outside but I was getting a face full when shooting indoors. Upgrading the cover solved this issue completely

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Geeze, she could have asked for help with cam and editing. Almost fell asleep.

 

Manticore makes good stuff. So I will just say, why?[emoji848]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.



  • olight.jpg

    Use Promo Code "NJGF10" for 10% Off Regular Items

  • Supporting Vendors

  • Latest Topics

  • Posts

    • I use an Alien Gear cloak tuck (IWB) with my Shield.  Neoprene back - in the summer it does feel warm but doesn't rub or chafe.   https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-iwb-holster.html Could also go with the shapeshift as it has multiple options - OWB/IWB, Appendix... https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-shapeshift-modular-holster-system.html
    • The  12-1 compression ratio L88 is long gone. This is GM's updated version. it might be  pump gas 10-1 engine The L88 was a aluminum head  cast iron block engine with a nasty solid lifter cam. the  ZL1 was a all aluminum  12 or 13-1 compression ratio engine with the best forged internal parts at the time and had a even nastier solid lifter cam 
    • I like my regular carry holster.  OWB leather with belt slots.  I've been carrying for over a year and it was comfortable and I hardly even noticed it.  I carry (usually) a Ruger LCP .380 - light, convenient, tiny. But...today I ended up taking it off an leaving it home after a few hours. I cut down a big maple tree a few days ago and I spent 3/4 of today loading and unloading firewood into the back of my truck and a trailer.  It was a warm day, I was dirty, tired, sweaty, and my holster was rubbing against my side.  The leather and exposed metal snap was no longer comfortable. I'm thinking about adding a layer of something to that part of the holster to soften the contact.  Anything insulating will make it worse.  I don't want a sweaty, hotter holster against my skin.  I'm imagining something thin, breathable, that won't absorb sweat, and softer than leather, metal snaps, and rivets.   But I have no idea what would work. I'm hoping somebody else has already figured this out and I can just do what they did. Any suggestions appreciated.
    • Check the primers on the ammo you didn't shoot yet. Are they fully seated? If the primer is not just below flush with the back of the case, the first hit can seat it better then the second hit ignites it. 
    • And, charging your car at home? We've got you covered! California braces for new electric plan: Make more, pay more | Fox Business
×
×
  • Create New...