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Persona non grata

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About Persona non grata

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    NJGF Regular

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  • Location:
    Greenville, SC
  • Home Range
    Greenville Gun Club

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  1. Sons of Liberty Gun Works NOX is popular on pinned 13.7 builds. Depends on the NOX model, but most are Dead Air KeyMo if you ever get a can. Edit: On second thought, I'm not sure if they make NOX brakes. Pretty sure they're flash hiders, so that's a no go in the PRNJ.
  2. I'm a life member of NRA, but I won't be giving them a cent until AT LEAST Wayne is gone. Even then, I'll still be very skeptical. I got my life membership because so many ranges require it, and right after Trump won they had a life membership "sale". I wish I had known better at that point, but at least they rolled my at-the-time current three year membership into the life membership to save a few more bucks. Gun Owners of America and American Suppressor Association seem like much more prudent ways to spend my money these days. Not to my knowledge. ANJRPC is the NJ NRA affiliate, however.
  3. They must have gotten some new people since I did a change of address with a few permits in Jackson, and I'm sure that the new electronic system helps as well. It was probably 5 or 6 years ago, took a few months, and the people I spoke to on the phone were quite rude. I think it was around the three month mark that I sent an email to the chief. Total coincidence, the very next day after I sent the email I was approved.
  4. I have some PSA Premium / Toolcraft NiB BCGs. They seem fine, and I haven’t had any issues with them. With that said, I’ve mostly settled on BCM and DD BCGs lately. Cleaning a phosphate BCG isn’t much more work than the NiB ones. Spray on some clp, let it sit a few minutes, hit it with a nylon brush, and then wipe it down. Doesn’t need to be spotless. My favorite BCG is the chrome DD model I picked up right before the craziness. Cleans up easily and has the rougher look of chrome compared to NiB.
  5. The X-Five Legion is a lot of gun for the money. LGS down here has/had them for $899. Can’t go wrong with the weight of a metal framed gun with the flex of polymer. I will eventually love mine, but I still need to break it in. It didn’t like my 115 gr Federal with the heavy spring, so I need to see if it likes the light spring it comes with. Some folks say it needs to be broken in with the light spring, then you can swap out for the heavier spring. I’ll find out later this week.
  6. Yup. I love my 5” P320 X5 Legion, but there’s almost no way I could conceal it. I love carrying my 3.1” P365, but shoot a competition with it? I have other guns I’d opt for first.
  7. Aliengear Cloak Tuck 3.5 is good for 4-5 o’clock concealment. I carry my P365 and Shield 2.0 with one and it works very well. I’m not a fan of modular holsters, so everything I have is made for a particular gun. For appendix, I don’t know, I’m not a huge fan of having a loaded gun pointed in that direction. With that said, I might try a T-Rex Sidecar at some point. For OWB, I’d recommend Safariland. it really comes down to what you’re doing with it, as others have said.
  8. A high quality upper is worth a lot more than a lower. If you want lowers as an investment, just buy a few stripped lowers and stash them. A full rifle costs what, $600-700 bare minimum? Aero stripped lowers can usually be had for around $100, while Anderson is under that. IMO, it probably makes sense to have two or three lowers, but stacking them deep makes no sense. Everyone and their dog has stocked up on lowers over the last year, and Congress currently doesn’t have the votes for anything too crazy. Even if they did pass something, so many lowers have been sold that I doubt prices would be similar to had you bought a full auto before 1986. Also, a lower is nothing but a chunk of metal until you build it out. A complete rifle is inherently more valuable, as it can go bang immediately.
  9. Have you had any luck? Brownells, Primary Arms, and Rainier Arms get BCM lowers, uppers and complete rifles in from time to time. Also as mentioned, BCM’s website has uppers in stock usually weekly. For mine, I wound up getting a complete lower from Brownells and a complete upper from BCM. MrGunsNGear usually posts when BCM rifles or lowers go in stock, so it could be worth following him on Telegram or Facebook if you aren’t already. I’m sure you already know, but you’ll need to have some NJ compliance work done. I skipped that step since SC is a semi free state.
  10. I have a VP9 and two P320s, and would recommend either platform. The VP9 has the crisper trigger, but the modularity of the P320 is a huge benefit and is finally being properly exploited. While both are great guns, I have to admit that I shoot my P320s better than my VP9. I’m pretty sure that’s because I shoot my Sigs more often, though. The Sigs point similarly to each other, so I don’t need to adjust much between them off the draw. I also carry a P365, so being similar to the P320 also helps a ton.
  11. There’s nothing wrong going straight to an optic for either pistol or rifle. It is 2021, after all. I still like having backup sights, but there’s a good chance that if you have a quality optic, you’ll likely never “need” the irons. I would highly recommend that if you even think that you would like a free float type of hand guard in the future, go free float right off the bat. It can be difficult or nearly impossible to change out to a free float hand guard on a NJ compliant AR. The easy option is to buy a new complete upper receiver, which isn’t exactly a “budget friendly” option most of the time. This isn’t usually an issue with the AR platform, but is an issue in NJ, since the muzzle device gets pinned and welded to the barrel. Your gas block typically won’t fit over a muzzle break, and you usually need to change that to swap between a traditional front sight base / delta ring and free float type of hand guard. You’re on the right track with a light. A free float rail allows you to get the light further out, which can be advantageous. If you want it for self defense, a quality white light is essential. If you want to do it on the cheap and still have a high quality light, I would recommend getting a Streamlight Polytac or Surefire G2X Tactical (high output only is preferable) and a 1” flashlight ring mount. You can typically do that setup for well under $100. It isn’t a “rifle light” per say, but it tends to work very well. The Streamlight Protac Rail Mount HL-X can also be had on sale for under $100, and may be the best value going in dedicated rifle lights.
  12. Sounds about right. It looks like your magnifier has an eye relief of 2.2”. You might want to adjust where you have your stock pinned so that your eye is in the right place so you can use the magnifier without adjusting your check weld. A collapsible stock makes this much easier, but NJ is awful. As for lights, the Streamlight HL-X rail mount you posted is an excellent light for the money, and might be the best value. I have one and it seems solid. Another great lower cost option is to get a $70ish Surefire G2X Tactical hand held light (not the Pro model which is low/high output, tactical has full output only) and a 1” flashlight mount. It isn’t a “gun light” per say, but it works very well. A good quality light is extremely important and can get switched out to another gun in the future. Even a higher end light isn’t that expensive in the grand scheme of things, when you consider how important it is and how long it will likely last.
  13. As others have mentioned, Magpul or BCM rail panels definitely help. A vertical grip helps since it gets your hand off the aluminum. Wearing a glove also goes a long way. I typically have rail panels where my hand likes to go and usually wear gloves as well. The biggest downside to free float rails is how they heat up. As for the case getting damaged, it’s a possibility. I like to let my rifles cool off for 10 minutes or so before they go in the case. Admittedly, that might be tough at busy ranges. When I used to shoot at Range 14 I would try to keep an eye on the time and wrap up my shooting a little early to let things cool down.
  14. If your current barrel has a pinned and welded muzzle brake, you’ll likely have to get that off first to even consider what you’re doing. That tends to be a real pain just by itself. I concur with the new complete upper idea.
  15. Ah, more brands for PSA’s private equity overlords to play with. Looked it up and seems that JJE holdings (owner of PSA) also bought AAC and a few other brands. Sure, it can be done. From what I’ve seen though, it’s nowhere near as easy to get a reliable AR10 for cheap as an AR15. I’ve built some 15s piece by piece that run great, but I plan on buying a factory 10 if and when I pull that trigger.
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