matt6669 71 Posted September 23, 2010 Well I'm starting to put together stuff so that when I'm ready I can go ahead and start reloading for my M1 Garand. I'm trying to decide what dies to get. I'm assuming I have to go with a full length resizer. Should I spend the money and get a set of RCBS competition dies or is it not worth it out of a semi-auto. I plan on shooting M1 Garand matches with this gun as well. Thanks M Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tbtrout 141 Posted September 23, 2010 I use the comp dies for 308. I like the window for bullet feeding. I am going to get them for 223 and 30 06. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lunicy 4 Posted September 24, 2010 The last time I reloaded for the Garand, I used IMR4895 and 150 speer boattails. Impeccable accuracy. Of course, I went to shooting mostly cast since then. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest schutzen-jager Posted September 24, 2010 you can never go wrong with lee dies - make sure loads are formulated for m1 garand - wrong powders can damage operating rod - Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pizza Bob 1,488 Posted September 24, 2010 Are small-base dies still recommended for ammunition being used in semi-auto firearms? Anybody had any issues using just regular full-length dies? Are small-base dies even still offered? The people want to know. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tbtrout 141 Posted September 24, 2010 SBD's ars till availible, but most of the time not needed unless you have feed issues in a semi. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GRIZ 3,369 Posted September 24, 2010 Are small-base dies still recommended for ammunition being used in semi-auto firearms? Anybody had any issues using just regular full-length dies? Are small-base dies even still offered? The people want to know. I've been loading 308 and 270 with Lee dies and 223 and 30-06 with RCBS standard dies for semi autos for about 35 years with no problems. I did try 223 small base dies about 30 years ago when I was told I "needed" them and only had stuck case problems with the sizing die (yes the cases were lubed properly). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Parker 213 Posted September 24, 2010 Are small-base dies still recommended for ammunition being used in semi-auto firearms? Anybody had any issues using just regular full-length dies? Are small-base dies even still offered? The people want to know. I remember reading this same recommendation when I first started reloading. The first '06 I picked up in my youth was a pump for hunting, but I bought the standard RCBS FL dies for it. This is the same die set I use today to reload for an M1 and another .30-06. The FL dies work fine for me. Always thought about the SB dies but never had a problem with the FL set so never purchased them. You can make some accurate loads with a standard set of FL dies for your Garand too. I guess how high you want to raise the bar dictates what you are willing to spend. That used-'06 I got came with a handy reloader too, which I still have today, only now it sits in its box and serves as a conversation piece. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
civictuner04 6 Posted September 25, 2010 im very new to reloading made about 300 rounds for my r-700 so far and working on getting the right load. but in the mean time i f-ed up to lee resizing dies. do you need to f l size for a semi-auto? if so can you guys recomend a set of dies that i won't jam up. (i do lube tried 2 different types of lube and still problems). you can resize 7.62x51 in 308 dies correct? im sorry if this is a major thread jack and if so ill make a new post. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tbtrout 141 Posted September 25, 2010 Tuner, you need to FL size for semis. I prefer RCBS dies or Redding. I fooled around with Lee dies around a month ago for a friend and I will stick with RCBS. YMMV I also use Hornady One Shot spray lube. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coldsolderjoint 84 Posted September 26, 2010 I read somewhere that because the garand has a free floating firing pin, you should be using military spec primers. (Harder?).. but where do you get those from? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JC_68Westy 1,024 Posted September 26, 2010 I read somewhere that because the garand has a free floating firing pin, you should be using military spec primers. (Harder?).. but where do you get those from? CCI No. 34 primers are Military Large Rifle Primers. They are supposed to be hardened. Several online vendors sell them. Wideners has them in stock. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Parker 213 Posted September 27, 2010 I had read that many years ago, but I have had good luck using standard rifle primers from Remington, Winchester and CCI. I also use CCIBR primers in my M1A, and that bolt has a floating firing pin as well. I have never experienced any problems. Check the CMP reloading forums and you'll see that some use the #34 primer, while others have their specific preference for a particular brand of primer. Proper powder choice is more critical and keeping reloads within M1 specs are equally as important. Proper reloading rechniques, knowing your arm and its operation and exercising proper care when used will further eleminate problems. Some good reads: http://www.exteriorballistics.com/reloadbasics/gasgunreload.cfm http://masterpostemple.bravepages.com/M1load.htm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
docwalt 1 Posted October 5, 2010 Speaking of powders... One of the companies is putting out ball powder, especially for the Garand. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Parker 213 Posted October 5, 2010 Speaking of powders... One of the companies is putting out ball powder, especially for the Garand. I have used W748 for a number of years now in my Garand. Not my preferred choice but it works fine. I just found it needed more "tuning" than some other powders. There are some ball powder loads found in the load data links on my earlier post. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wojo 98 Posted October 5, 2010 For my M1's Full size every time H4895 - stay shy of max loads, give you op rod some extra insurance CCI Military 43 or standard 200 primers. Need to have the harder cup to prevent slam fires. Might I recommend purchasing a Gas Plug. Once you get it dialed in, your groups will reduce and you feel your op rod not slamming around as much. YMMV Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
intercooler 41 Posted October 6, 2010 do you really save much over buying ammo from CMP? the cost is .50 a round from cmp and depending if you buy them in enblocs, you can resell the bandoleers or extra enblocs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Parker 213 Posted October 6, 2010 Might I recommend purchasing a Gas Plug. Once you get it dialed in, your groups will reduce and you feel your op rod not slamming around as much. YMMV Wojo, are you using a McCann or a Schuster plug to adjust the gas flow? Always wondered about getting one. do you really save much over buying ammo from CMP? the cost is .50 a round from cmp and depending if you buy them in enblocs, you can resell the bandoleers or extra enblocs. I've never really thought about saving money at the time when I first got my Garand. At the time years ago, reloading WAS saving me money. Reloading always went hand in hand to owning any rifle for me so it was natural to simply reload for every caliber I acquired. I reload today only because I enjoy it. It seems to engage me in the whole process. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites