NJdiverTony 27 Posted April 19, 2011 Sounds like a total newbie question, but is there a standard "proper" way to lubricate a pistol? I don't seem to see much information around about this subject. Do you use oil? Grease? I currently only use MPro7 gun oil to lubricate my pistol after a good cleaning... but have been reading about using grease for the slide and etc. Does plain ole white lithium grease work? Or do you have to use a grease specially made for guns? Is it just best to use gun oil? How do you clean and maintain your pistols? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
henrym 19 Posted April 19, 2011 I was taught if it pivots or turns it gets oil if it slides it gets grease. I use weapon shield grease and oil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pew Pew Plates 358 Posted April 19, 2011 a touch of grease (tetra) in the rails and thats it. less is more. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
henrym 19 Posted April 19, 2011 You do need to watch your grease though. If it gets alot of particulate in it, the grease then becomes a lapping compound which is a no go for slide frame fit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pew Pew Plates 358 Posted April 19, 2011 You do need to watch your grease though. If it gets alot of particulate in it, the grease then becomes a lapping compound which is a no go for slide frame fit. Yes, however... - you shouldnt be cleaning it that infrequently - oil does the same thing if it doesnt have flow which no guns have except one or two WWII era italian and japanese machine guns. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NJdiverTony 27 Posted April 19, 2011 What kind of grease do you use? Is regular white lithium grease OK? Or is it best to get a gun grease? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Babaganoosh 192 Posted April 19, 2011 It's prob ok but why risk screwing up your expensive gun by cheaping out on the grease. You can get a grease that is intended for firearms for 5 bucks. Clicky Clicky for some gun greases Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NJdiverTony 27 Posted April 19, 2011 It's prob ok but why risk screwing up your expensive gun by cheaping out on the grease. You can get a grease that is intended for firearms for 5 bucks. Clicky Clicky for some gun greases Thanks. I ordered Tetra grease and little syringe of the Wilson Combat grease... figured that I'd try them both out. I was only wondering about using White Lithium grease to hold me over until I get the stuff that I ordered... but I guess I can just wait. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rifleman1 32 Posted April 19, 2011 I typically use what the manufacturer recommends. A couple of drops of Rem oil in the slide channel starting in the back with the slide on an downward angle so the oil moves down the slide toward the front works for me. If I over do it and use too much the oil pools in the slide near the opening for the barrel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GRIZ 3,369 Posted April 19, 2011 It's prob ok but why risk screwing up your expensive gun by cheaping out on the grease. I use Mobil One grease on M1s and similar actions. Being that they were made to run on any grease there is no harm done. $6-7 for 10cc of grease? I can make a lot on that $8 tuve of Mobil One grease. I know there will be opinions that differ but I see no benefit from using grease on anything else moreso handguns. I've used Breakfree on handguns for over 20 years and see no reason to use anything else. Revolvers get a small drop on the extractor star and rod and a drop into the guts (no disassembly required. Semiautos get all the imnnards brushed with Breakfree (except the breech area) and a small drop on rails and other friction areas. I realize that this brush method puts lube where it isn't needed but i think it adds a layer which makes the gun easier to clean. Brush so its shiny not wet. Blued guns get a patch of Breakfree run down the bore and through chambers followed by a dry patch. Exteriors of blued guns get brushed down (shiny not wet) and wiped down. Lubing this way apparently works as I've put 800-1000 rds through a gun with no furtherv cleaning and no malfunctions. Others have different ideas. My ssytem seems to work for me and it ain't broke so theres nothing to fix. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pew Pew Plates 358 Posted April 19, 2011 I typically use what the manufacturer recommends. A couple of drops of Rem oil in the slide channel starting in the back with the slide on an downward angle so the oil moves down the slide toward the front works for me. If I over do it and use too much the oil pools in the slide near the opening for the barrel. I dont even consider rem-oil a lubricant. It is so terribly light... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Old Glock guy 1,127 Posted April 19, 2011 I've heard Ballistol is good, but I haven't gotten around to trying it yet. http://www.ballistol.com/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Babaganoosh 192 Posted April 19, 2011 It's prob ok but why risk screwing up your expensive gun by cheaping out on the grease. I use Mobil One grease on M1s and similar actions. Being that they were made to run on any grease there is no harm done. $6-7 for 10cc of grease? I can make a lot on that $8 tuve of Mobil One grease. I know there will be opinions that differ but I see no benefit from using grease on anything else moreso handguns. I've used Breakfree on handguns for over 20 years and see no reason to use anything else. Revolvers get a small drop on the extractor star and rod and a drop into the guts (no disassembly required. Semiautos get all the imnnards brushed with Breakfree (except the breech area) and a small drop on rails and other friction areas. I realize that this brush method puts lube where it isn't needed but i think it adds a layer which makes the gun easier to clean. Brush so its shiny not wet. Blued guns get a patch of Breakfree run down the bore and through chambers followed by a dry patch. Exteriors of blued guns get brushed down (shiny not wet) and wiped down. Lubing this way apparently works as I've put 800-1000 rds through a gun with no furtherv cleaning and no malfunctions. Others have different ideas. My ssytem seems to work for me and it ain't broke so theres nothing to fix. I gotta say I was an oil guy too. I used grease once on my rails and there was a noticable difference. It def stays on longer and the slide seems smoother. I dont mind paying 5-6 bucks for some grease. Yeah it would be cheaper to go another route but the little tube fits right in my range bag and I'm good to go. I really like grease on the rails. To each his own though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GRIZ 3,369 Posted April 19, 2011 Yeah it would be cheaper to go another route but the little tube fits right in my range bag and I'm good to go. Buy that $8 tube of Mobil One grease and a 50cc syringe and you'll have years of grease and it'll fit in your range bag. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
savageshooter 10 Posted April 19, 2011 Grease is good, especially for metal on metal rails like 1911's or CZ 75's. Just a dab'll do ya. Tetra Grease is around $4.00 for a one ounce tube that'll last a good while. Only a light film of the stuff is required. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan 177 Posted April 20, 2011 TW25B and Magnalube-G are my grease go-to's. TW25B is a light grease, the Magnalube is a tad heavier/stickier. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joshg138 0 Posted April 20, 2011 What about on the outside of the barrel and outside of the slide. I was always taught to put a very thin layer of oil on them. Is that a bad idea? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NJdiverTony 27 Posted April 20, 2011 What about on the outside of the barrel and outside of the slide. I was always taught to put a very thin layer of oil on them. Is that a bad idea? That is what most manufacturers recommend that you do... That's what I do with my long guns and pistols. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
savageshooter 10 Posted April 20, 2011 Just cleaned my S&W Model 10 and CZ 75B. Before putting the Model 10 away, I ran an oil wipe over it, and ran a lightly oiled patch through the chambers. A good idea to run an lightly oiled patch through the barrel for long term storage. Run a dry cloth through it before using it again. The CZ, I use an oil wipe on the outside of the barrel before putting it back together. I use a silicon cloth to wipe down the exterior of the gun, and mags. Everybody has their own way of cleaning/lubing. Whatever works for you. Just be aware that some solvents don't play nice with some finishes, like polymer, polycoat, nickel, blue etc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan 177 Posted April 20, 2011 A great spray-on-everything, then wipe off product is G96 gun treatment. I recently discovered this stuff, and I use it as a finishing touch after any cleaning session on all my guns. Safe on plastic as well. Apparently this stuff has been around for ages. The company is located in Paterson, NJ.. so I get to support a NJ business by using it as well. http://www.g96.com/miva/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=g96&Category_Code=Gun+Treatment It also smells great.. hard to describe. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sigman 41 Posted April 20, 2011 Has anybody used Aerokroil made by Kano as a bore solvent? It was brought to my attention because a friend of mine was at the junkyard the other day trying to break free front end bolts and he could not get them loose with a penetrating oil he was using. They finally tried the Aerokroil and they broke free in fifteen minutes. It amazed him and the other guys that were with him. I started doing some searches and found it sold at Midway where it got a five star rating. The best bore solvent I have found so far is Ballistol. I'm going to try this stuff as a bore solvent and see how it works. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan 177 Posted April 20, 2011 Has anybody used Aerokroil made by Kano as a bore solvent? It was brought to my attention because a friend of mine was at the junkyard the other day trying to break free front end bolts and he could not get them loose with a penetrating oil he was using. They finally tried the Aerokroil and they broke free in fifteen minutes. It amazed him and the other guys that were with him. I started doing some searches and found it sold at Midway where it got a five star rating. The best bore solvent I have found so far is Ballistol. I'm going to try this stuff as a bore solvent and see how it works. I use Aerokroil as well. It's great as a penatrating lubricant as your friend found out, and excellent as a solvent for cleaning guns/bores. As a note, its pretty smelly on the stink-meter. What's also great about is is that it has many many more uses than just with guns. I recently used it to bring new life to a crudded up bench vise. Also leaves behind a thin layer of machine oil after it evaporates. Edit: I bought this web deal. Two cans for $12 + $5.95 S&H http://www.kanolabs.com/google/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silverking 0 Posted April 20, 2011 Assume we are talking about semi-autos here. With these the frame to rail surface is the most critical and needs the most attention. Here is my $0.10 FWIW. Steel frame and steel slide pistols are the most forgiving, meaning, the most durable. I use a lite grease, specifically, Lubriplate NLG, an alimunum based food processing. Very highly thought of as a firearm lubricant. Some guys prefer a high quality oil which I believe will also do the jib. Lubriplate NLG is available from the Lubriplate On-Line Store in 14 oz, cans. Also, sold on-line under the name LubriKit. Very nice stuff. Staniless frame and stainless slide pistols are less forgiving. Stainlees on stainless can gall (an ugly form of chippig)in short order if it allowed to run dry for even a short time. Nasty! I would use nothing but a top quailty synthetic grease here. Alloy frame and stainless slide pistols are even less forgiving. All Sig Sauer pistols made today have this configuration. Imperative here to use a good grease that stays put. Slide Glide is a popular but I prefer the Lubriplate product. There are a bunch of other good gun greases and automotive grease such as Mobil 1 synthetic grease will probably work. I am not a fan of TW 25B. It ssems to be watery. I remove the grease from my pistols after each range tripm and relube. Gun lube is a very popular topic on every gun forum. Lots of info out there. Do a search for "Grant Cunningham" and read his Lubrication 101. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan 177 Posted April 20, 2011 I am not a fan of TW 25B. It ssems to be watery. It is a light grease and is marketed as such. It works really well for situations that call for an oil, but there are issues with run-off. IMO, not a good choice for pistol slides, high wear points, and such. You definitely want something stickier. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hd2000fxdl 422 Posted April 21, 2011 Has anybody used Aerokroil made by Kano as a bore solvent? It was brought to my attention because a friend of mine was at the junkyard the other day trying to break free front end bolts and he could not get them loose with a penetrating oil he was using. As you found out Aerokriol works well, I also keep a 50/50 mix of Diesel Acetone and use that for any bolts I need to break loose, I usually just put it on th night before and break them loose the next day I have had this mix work better than anything on some bolts and nuts. Harry Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MrP 81 Posted April 21, 2011 I use Slide-Glide and it is f'in great. You can buy it in 3 thicknesses for whichever type of gun you're using it on. I use regular in the spring/summer/fall and Lite in the winter. On my Sig, there is noticeably reduced felt recoil when the rails are coated in SG. The stuff is very stringy, and stays where you put it. Highly recommended. You can pick it up at BrianEnos.com or Brownells I think. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JonF 79 Posted April 21, 2011 I also like to use a grease on certain parts of a firearm, namely areas liek a slide or bolt where a sliding action occurs. My only experience has been with Tetra grease which seems to be a lithium based product. Lately i've not been too happy with its all-season performance. Namely in winter matches where it seems to stiffen up and cause the gun to become sluggish and malfunction. BEcause of this, I had to switch to oil only on some guns just so they will run in colder outdoor temps. I've been eyeing up some Slide Glide lately in 1 or two viscosities, but would like to know how it compares? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Malsua 1,422 Posted April 21, 2011 I use Slide-Glide ..... On my Sig, there is noticeably reduced felt recoil when the rails are coated in SG. It must be smoothing the recoil pulse by retarding the rearward acceleration of the slide. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vlad G 345 Posted April 21, 2011 Slide glide is a completely different beast then Tetra, and it works very well, specially on guns that have long slide to frame surfaces (1911's, CZ's, etc). It doesn't make that much of a difference on short rail guns (M&P, etc) in my experience. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JonF 79 Posted April 21, 2011 My CZ has a full length slide to frame rail so the effect of viscosity change is even more pronounced on it. Contrast that with a glock where you could lube it with elmers glue and cornstarch since the rail points are so tiny. lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites