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Cz75B Decocking

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Put a deposit down on a CZ 75B stainless today at Hacketstown G&A. The stainless finish is quite attractive and the stock trigger pull is pretty decent.

 

One question, what was CZ thinking when designed a double action semi with no decocker? It has a safety so the gun might as well be SA. How do you safely decock a CZ 75B? I guess lower the hammer and make sure part of my finger is in front of the hammer? Anyone shooting one in USPSA and have any good advise on safely lowering the hammer on a 75B?

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Lots of people liked to carry cocked-and-locked from their days with the 1911. This was a way to get them to accept this 9mm pistol back when the wonder nines were first coming out and people were reluctant to try them.

Unfortunately, the CZ75 and clones have a ring hammer like the Colt Commander. This is harder to thumb-decock than the standard Colt spur hammer.

So I guess my answer would be.... very carefully.

You might also consider CZ variants with decockers. There are several. The CZ 75BD is the same gun, but with a decocker instead of safety.

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This was posted on the firing line

 

I've decocked mine many many times. Use the thumb and index finger of the non shooting hand to pinch the hammer. Pull trigger just enough to let the hammer move forward. Release trigger. Now if the hammer slips the firing pin safety prevents a fire. The hammer will be decocked to half penis, which is where the decocker version of the CZ75 leaves it. It also reduces the length of the trigger pull and lightens the feel.

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This was posted on the firing line

 

I've decocked mine many many times. Use the thumb and index finger of the non shooting hand to pinch the hammer. Pull trigger just enough to let the hammer move forward. Release trigger. Now if the hammer slips the firing pin safety prevents a fire. The hammer will be decocked to half penis, which is where the decocker version of the CZ75 leaves it. It also reduces the length of the trigger pull and lightens the feel.

 

Lmao, what?

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I have a 75b and could have gotten the decocker model, but preferred not to.

 

It's actually quite easy. I have large hands so I rack the slide and put a round in the chamber, then bring the hammer forward with my dominate-hand thumb. That's it haha.

 

I would suggest practicing it with snap caps first and once you get the hang of it, then moving on to live ammo during range time. If you were to accidentally let go of the hammer, that slide is coming straight back to your thumb and will most likely break it.

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I think it depends what you mean by decocked. It seems that CZ thinks decocked means half cocked. As the firingline quote says, the decocker on the BD only drops the hammer to half cocked. It isn't terribly difficult to manually decock the hammer to the half position (pull the hammer back with your thumb, pull the trigger, release the trigger, gently release the hammer). The firing pin block adds lots of safety here.

 

But I've heard that USPSA requires the hammer to be fully decocked. I have no idea if this is true, I've never been to a USPSA match. If that's the case decocking becomes a little more stressful since you have to keep the trigger pulled while you lower the hammer past half-cocked. This seems like a recipe for broken thumbs.

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I think it depends what you mean by decocked. It seems that CZ thinks decocked means half cocked. As the firingline quote says, the decocker on the BD only drops the hammer to half cocked. It isn't terribly difficult to manually decock the hammer to the half position (pull the hammer back with your thumb, pull the trigger, release the trigger, gently release the hammer). The firing pin block adds lots of safety here.

 

But I've heard that USPSA requires the hammer to be fully decocked. I have no idea if this is true, I've never been to a USPSA match. If that's the case decocking becomes a little more stressful since you have to keep the trigger pulled while you lower the hammer past half-cocked. This seems like a recipe for broken thumbs.

 

Here are some rules:

 

 

8.1.2 Self-loading Pistols:

8.1.2.1 “Single action” – chamber loaded, hammer cocked, and the safety

engaged.

8.1.2.2 “Double action” – chamber loaded, hammer fully down or decocked.

8.1.2.3 “Selective action” – chamber loaded with hammer fully down,

or chamber loaded and hammer cocked with external safety

engaged (see Divisions in Appendix D).

8.1.2.4 With respect to Rules 8.1.2.1 and 8.1.2.3, the term “safety”

means the primary visible safety lever on the handgun (e.g. the

thumb safety on a “1911” genre handgun). In the event of doubt,

the Range Master is the final authority on this matter.

 

 

Special conditions: *** Production Division Note ***

— Handguns with external hammers must be fully decocked at the start signal.

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I saw a pistol in Hackettstown G&A, but I don't think it was the stainless model, just nickel. Please double-check. The SB in Rockaway has a stainless one. IF you are going to spend the money, see if you can get the matte stainless version or the Limited w/ the brushed stainless.

 

I would like to get a CZ 75B Compact in brushed stainless w/ a decocker. That would be something.

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Special conditions: *** Production Division Note ***

— Handguns with external hammers must be fully decocked at the start signal.

 

That means the hammer must be down on a live round? If so that seems reckless. CZ intends their 75bs to be decocked to the half-cocked notch according to the tech I talked to at CZ when I was debating a 9mm. So the rules of the competition require shooters to do things that go against the intended use of the firearm and could result in unintended discharges and broken hands.

 

But like I said, I've never been to a match. I assume people do this stuff all the time with no ill effects. To the original point, however, I would only suggest decocking to the half way point and only releasing the hammer when your finger is off the trigger.

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The asking price is the MSRP of the polished stainless. So I'm sure it's a stainless.

 

I do like the polished look. The nickle version has a lower MSRP. I'm double checking with Walt though. Thanks for the heads up.

 

Once I felt this CZ I think it's not gonna be the only one :) I'll get one of those custom shop comp guns later. I do want to send this one to the CS to get a trigger job done.

 

I saw a pistol in Hackettstown G&A, but I don't think it was the stainless model, just nickel. Please double-check. The SB in Rockaway has a stainless one. IF you are going to spend the money, see if you can get the matte stainless version or the Limited w/ the brushed stainless.

 

I would like to get a CZ 75B Compact in brushed stainless w/ a decocker. That would be something.

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the word penis has been used all together too many times in this thread . :)

 

by the way , I have a thumb safety but no firing pin safety on my cz 85 combat. I guess they want me to live dangerously.

 

:lol:

 

Yes, they do. :)

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Walt confirmed it was polished ss. Anyone here had work done at the CZ custom shop? I wonder if I just get a regular trigger job or should I go for the SA/DA Comp hammer as well.

 

The asking price is the MSRP of the polished stainless. So I'm sure it's a stainless.

 

I do like the polished look. The nickle version has a lower MSRP. I'm double checking with Walt though. Thanks for the heads up.

 

Once I felt this CZ I think it's not gonna be the only one :) I'll get one of those custom shop comp guns later. I do want to send this one to the CS to get a trigger job done.

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. Anyone here had work done at the CZ custom shop? I wonder if I just get a regular trigger job or should I go for the SA/DA Comp hammer as well.

 

I'll wait to see what other who have had work done by them have to say, but I have to ask, Did you speak with Angus and ask him this question??

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We need to start a CZ club.

Also, maybe a group buy on trigger jobs from CZ Customs. I definitely need one. Also curious what others have done for grips. Not loving the plastic.

 

But other than that, you're going to love it. Would have loved an 85 in stainless.

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Nice. i have CZ 75 SP01 Phantom. I done trigger job and smoothing by my self.

 

Here is video shoving hammer and sear after my work.

 

Next, im going to change firing pin and main spring (#14).

 

Later, Front fiber optic sight and tactical rear sight.

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We need to start a CZ club.

Also, maybe a group buy on trigger jobs from CZ Customs. I definitely need one. Also curious what others have done for grips. Not loving the plastic.

 

But other than that, you're going to love it. Would have loved an 85 in stainless.

 

You can buy the nice rubber grips from www.cz-usa.com. There are other slim ones you can get from CZ Customs. I prefer the rubber though. The CZ85 Combat in satin finish os pretty nice too. Very durable.

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That means the hammer must be down on a live round? If so that seems reckless. CZ intends their 75bs to be decocked to the half-cocked notch according to the tech I talked to at CZ when I was debating a 9mm. So the rules of the competition require shooters to do things that go against the intended use of the firearm and could result in unintended discharges and broken hands.

 

It is no way reckless, dangerous, or anything else, there is a firing pin safety for a reason, these aren't Colt SSA's where hitting the hammer from the outside fires the gun. Now the 85 might do that if you get really enthusiastic about hitting the hammer with a real hammer.

 

I shot a 75B in competition for about 4-5 years, manually decocked more times then I can count, so do many others every day and every match. Not an issue.

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You can buy the nice rubber grips from www.cz-usa.com. There are other slim ones you can get from CZ Customs. I prefer the rubber though. The CZ85 Combat in satin finish os pretty nice too. Very durable.

 

I've learned this hard way, use hard grips on a CZ, not the rubber ones. You can actually prevent the mag from dropping free by grip pressure alone. Use hard plastic or wood grips, but not rubber. Not an issue on most firearm designs, but the CZ has such huge windows cut into the grip that what I described is easy to do.

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Anyone here had work done at the CZ custom shop? I wonder if I just get a regular trigger job or should I go for the SA/DA Comp hammer as well.

 

I got work done by CZ Custom on my 75B and really liked the results. Trigger is much lighter in DA and very smooth, and no hammer camming in SA mode. Also, the reset is nice and clean. They don't change any of the trigger length pulls, so in the end you get a nice smooth, light trigger. Just be sure to match the hammer spring weight in accordance with what ammo you are shooting. Too light, and you won't get enough power to ignite the primer reliably.

 

The full list of work that CZ Custom will do when you purchase their comp hammer and trigger job:

- install competition hammer (removes camming due to angle of hammer face)

- polish FPB (smooths the trigger pull considerably)

- polish FPB lifter

- polish hammer strut

- install lower weight hammer spring

- cut and polish sear angle for competition hammer

 

Having said how great it is, there are cheaper ways to do a trigger job on a CZ and get almost the same feel. Cajun Gun Works, sells nice drop in hammer kits (http://www.cajungunworks.com/1.html) and they also sell a nicely balanced Spring Kit. Those two installed will give you a close feel to the work that CZ Custom would do. The guy who own cajun gun works is an awesome dude and very active in the CZ community.

 

Here are some pics of my CZ:

 

936946427_C8oie-L.jpg

 

936946337_fF5Nc-L.jpg

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I've learned this hard way, use hard grips on a CZ, not the rubber ones. You can actually prevent the mag from dropping free by grip pressure alone. Use hard plastic or wood grips, but not rubber. Not an issue on most firearm designs, but the CZ has such huge windows cut into the grip that what I described is easy to do.

 

Another great grip option are VZ Grips. Made from G10. I just got a pair and installed them to replace the CZ wood grips I had. The VZ Grips are really grippy and almost as thin as the wood ones. Really like them. A bit price though @ $75.

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